Barn of Parts New Driveshaft Solution

[Hoosiersnow]

We all know what we mean by this but since Hoosiersnow says he's new, I think it's worth clarifying this to mean the track shaft spins inside the bearing, both when the tracks shaft is being accelerated and decelerated. I think the problem is worse when it's really cold out because the grease in the bearing makes the bearing hard to turn until it warms up.

thanks for spelling it out. Hopefully I can get to this in the next month and see how it looks. Sled is in a buddy's garage a few hours away so I need to make some time to pick it up and go through it.

 

[Simplespeed]

I have a 2017 Sidewinder with 300 miles on the machine that I purchased last winter and just wondering what kind of wear this drive shaft would have on it and what is the proper fix at this time ??? This machine is really just like new… My question is use a saver or wait for new fix a better option??? Thanks in advance for reply guys…..

 

[twyztid]

I have a 2017 Sidewinder with 300 miles on the machine that I purchased last winter and just wondering what kind of wear this drive shaft would have on it and what is the proper fix at this time ??? This machine is really just like new… My question is use a saver or wait for new fix a better option??? Thanks in advance for reply guys…..

Buy the Barn of Parts driveshaft saver and install it at 45-50 ft-lbs. I also bought a low-mile unit toward the end of the season in early 2021 and did the same thing.

 

[Turboflash]

I have a 2017 Sidewinder with 300 miles on the machine that I purchased last winter and just wondering what kind of wear this drive shaft would have on it and what is the proper fix at this time ??? This machine is really just like new… My question is use a saver or wait for new fix a better option??? Thanks in advance for reply guys…..

Agree. Do not wait, put in BOP shaft saver now. If you wait, all you will be doing is waiting until shaft has a groove worn in it. Then the current BOP shaft saver won't work.

 

[Simplespeed]

Buy the Barn of Parts driveshaft saver and install it at 45-50 ft-lbs. I also bought a low-mile unit toward the end of the season in early 2021 and did the same thing.

ok great… I will get it ordered.. Thanks for advice guys…

 

[Sevey]

Was speaking with my dealer today about the drive shaft and bearing issue, he brought to may attention the new Mountain Max has two locking nuts on the shaft that tighten the inner race of the bearing to the shaft.

I just looked at the schematic and he is correct. Looks like a far better design than what we are dealing with.

Wonder if they plan on rolling that out on the 998 SW sleds?
MS

 

[cannondale27]

Was speaking with my dealer today about the drive shaft and bearing issue, he brought to may attention the new Mountain Max has two locking nuts on the shaft that tighten the inner race of the bearing to the shaft.

I just looked at the schematic and he is correct. Looks like a far better design than what we are dealing with.

Wonder if they plan on rolling that out on the 998 SW sleds?
MS

That has been on all the Mountain cats for quite awhile. They have a Aluminum Driveshaft. Doubt it would ever hold up on a trail sled.

 

[Sevey]

That has been on all the Mountain cats for quite awhile. They have a Aluminum Driveshaft. Doubt it would ever hold up on a trail sled.

The threaded nut with locking collar has some merit if they would redesign it on our steel shafts.
Far better than what we have to put up with.

I had my shaft pinned the bearing notched by the guys in Vermont; Franks Motorcycles.
Had it apart this weekend to see how it held up. Its working great but the pin is taking a beating and will likely be stripped after next season - And the pin is egging the notch in the inner race of the bearing. Tremendous amount of power being transferred to these parts.

It seems like this is something that you have to deal with every 2-3 seasons.
MS

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

Thanks Sevey for the update on your pinned shaft,/slotted inner race. I did the identical repair and now have over 3k miles with no issues.What was the aprox mileage you had on the repair before inspection .Franks has done many of these and has had no issues. I also spoke to you about your recommendations in the Val -D-OR area of Quebec ‍Thanks

 

[74Nitro]

The threaded nut with locking collar has some merit if they would redesign it on our steel shafts.
Far better than what we have to put up with.

I had my shaft pinned the bearing notched by the guys in Vermont; Franks Motorcycles.
Had it apart this weekend to see how it held up. Its working great but the pin is taking a beating and will likely be stripped after next season - And the pin is egging the notch in the inner race of the bearing. Tremendous amount of power being transferred to these parts.

It seems like this is something that you have to deal with every 2-3 seasons.
MS

The pin idea for sure helps, but still doesn't completely prevent wear as the bearing isn't tight on the shaft.

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

The pin idea for sure helps, but still doesn't completely prevent wear as the bearing isn't tight on the shaft.

This repair will get me a couple more seasons and will be a down payment on a sled with better build quality

 

[justinator]

Not to stir the pot but I dont really see the need to be reinventing the wheel or stressing about this issue. You have 2 options that work and work well. If your shaft is new or has no measurable wear, install a shaft saver and torque it down to atleast 50ft lbs. No need to go lower and assume its good. The shaft saver will never in a million years expand the shaft to the point of applying enough pressure to damage the bearing. If your shaft is worn, remove it and if you have a shop in your area that does spray welding go have it welded up and turned down so you have proper bearing fit. If no spray welding available then have it TIG welded and turned down to proper fit. You will need to design a puller to assist in future removal from shaft but oh well. Make your puller before you reassemble so you have an easier time ensuring proper bolt pattern etc and put it in your toolbox till you need it. My xtx shaft was tig welded 6000 miles ago running tunes the whole time with traction far far greater than most 137's are capable of. Tons of high speed maine trail riding. zero issues. Dealer next door has fixed 20 or more this way and zero issues going forward. My 22 got shaft saver from day one and has 3300 miles and no issues. Yes, I understand it should be correct from factory but its not and something we need to deal with. Deal with it right away and you never have to deal with it again.

 

[Turboflash]

The threaded nut with locking collar has some merit if they would redesign it on our steel shafts.
Far better than what we have to put up with.

I had my shaft pinned the bearing notched by the guys in Vermont; Franks Motorcycles.
Had it apart this weekend to see how it held up. Its working great but the pin is taking a beating and will likely be stripped after next season - And the pin is egging the notch in the inner race of the bearing. Tremendous amount of power being transferred to these parts.

It seems like this is something that you have to deal with every 2-3 seasons.
MS

What the "egging out" part tells me is how hard the bearing turns (probably much worse when it's cold out and at first turn in the morning). And, without the pin/notch mod, the shaft spins inside the bearing both when accelerating and decelerating.
If the bearing turned easy, there wouldn't be so much force needed by the pin against the notch to make it turn.
I know this subject has been beat to death. Until design is changed (to physically connect bearing w shaft) mods like BOP shaft saver or pin/notch or spray weld will be necessary.

 

[Renegade XRS 900R]

The spray weld is done as part of the shaft reconditioning,then machined and pinned.within .0005” tolerance of the bearing ID of 1.772”

 

[Simplespeed]

Not to stir the pot but I dont really see the need to be reinventing the wheel or stressing about this issue. You have 2 options that work and work well. If your shaft is new or has no measurable wear, install a shaft saver and torque it down to atleast 50ft lbs. No need to go lower and assume its good. The shaft saver will never in a million years expand the shaft to the point of applying enough pressure to damage the bearing. If your shaft is worn, remove it and if you have a shop in your area that does spray welding go have it welded up and turned down so you have proper bearing fit. If no spray welding available then have it TIG welded and turned down to proper fit. You will need to design a puller to assist in future removal from shaft but oh well. Make your puller before you reassemble so you have an easier time ensuring proper bolt pattern etc and put it in your toolbox till you need it. My xtx shaft was tig welded 6000 miles ago running tunes the whole time with traction far far greater than most 137's are capable of. Tons of high speed maine trail riding. zero issues. Dealer next door has fixed 20 or more this way and zero issues going forward. My 22 got shaft saver from day one and has 3300 miles and no issues. Yes, I understand it should be correct from factory but its not and something we need to deal with. Deal with it right away and you never have to deal with it again.

Good write up ….