earthling
Lifetime Member
thanks for the advise Jim...I'm going to do just that soon. I have heard that not all drive shafts wear but will check it. BOP has some pictures of different shafts and I will use that as a guide. Joe
Anecdotally, if the driveshaft isn't wearing its a straight up anomaly. The wear seems to be universal which makes sense because it is a design/manufacturing problem.
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This latest new concept lower driveshaft repair is the best $$170 (with shipping) you will ever spend.Travis has a great new video on his Barn of Parts website detailing this.Anecdotally, if the driveshaft isn't wearing its a straight up anomaly. The wear seems to be universal which makes sense because it is a design/manufacturing problem.
earthling
Lifetime Member
This latest new concept lower driveshaft repair is the best $$170 (with shipping) you will ever spend.Travis has a great new video on his Barn of Parts website detailing this.
Without removing the driveshaft. *IF* you are removing the driveshaft (track change, whatever) I still think spray welding and turning the shaft to the right size, coupled with a new bushing/gear is going to be the better fix. More expensive and more hassle up front for sure. The BOP wedge seems to be the better fix if you have a new driveshaft/sled whereas I see the new update as being a solution for anyone that wants a fix for an existing/worn shaft.
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STAIN
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We have Connondale here on this site who does a bunch of shocks here for members. I have not heard of any complaints from anyone.Good to know. I pulled the rear skid on Friday. Too bad I didn't see your message first. Now I need to figure out who to have rebuild the shocks.
Sled is stored in off season in a garage a couple hours away so I'll have to wait until next time I'm that direction to take a look.
snowdust
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yellow rider
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Great idea Travis. This method is what all original Yamaha's had for the driveshaft bearing and a concentric locking collar for the jackshaft bearing. The only concern I would have is with a worn shaft depending on how great the clearance is. 10 - 20 thou would be sketchy. The reason being the collar would be supporting the bearing and over time I believe would cause it to fail. The bearing is where the load is and needs to be in contact with the shaft. I think it's exactly what is needed but worn shafts should either be replaced or repaired for optimum performance and longevity. Just my opinion.
Upstater57
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I have heard of 600's and 800's with the same wear problem. It is universal. As I have said before, I am surprised someone has not offered a completely new aftermarket shaft/bearing combo.Anecdotally, if the driveshaft isn't wearing its a straight up anomaly. The wear seems to be universal which makes sense because it is a design/manufacturing problem.
FrozenTows4
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Yes, they all spin. Displacement doesn't matter. Yamaha & Arctic don't care. Haven't for years. Sad.
hibshman25
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Great idea Travis. This method is what all original Yamaha's had for the driveshaft bearing and a concentric locking collar for the jackshaft bearing. The only concern I would have is with a worn shaft depending on how great the clearance is. 10 - 20 thou would be sketchy. The reason being the collar would be supporting the bearing and over time I believe would cause it to fail. The bearing is where the load is and needs to be in contact with the shaft. I think it's exactly what is needed but worn shafts should either be replaced or repaired for optimum performance and longevity. Just my opinion.
I think the collar will be sufficient to support the bearing. The overhang is at most only 16mm wide, which does not yield much leverage to break the collar. How long it lasts on a worn shaft will be determined in time. Ultimately, I hope it proves to be a forever fix on a worn shaft, but in a sport with such limited opportunity it is sure to get guys up and going as a short term fix if timing or budget don't allow for driveshaft to be replaced.
HABS 1
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i installed this new bearing setup yesterday, im not sure what exactly this sled likes more about this rather than the wedge but , the bearing does not move out or pop the clip out of caliper housing like it did with the wedge, im hoping this issue is put to bed for me! i was able to put a new dirt seal in by maneuvering threw hole , (keeping driveshaft in sled),obviously time will tell more but so far id say its a win
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hibshman25
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Thanks for posting. Glad to hear the new bearing resolved your issue. Still puzzling that you had the whole clip popping issue to begin with. To date you are still the only one I know of that had that issue.i installed this new bearing setup yesterday, im not sure what exactly this sled likes more about this rather than the wedge but , the bearing does not move out or pop the clip out of caliper housing like it did with the wedge, im hoping this issue is put to bed for me! i was able to put a new dirt seal in by maneuvering threw hole , (keeping driveshaft in sled),obviously time will tell more but so far id say its a win
Interesting that you were able to get the seal in through the tunnel. Did you have to deform it at all to get it in?
HABS 1
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yes slighly oblonged to get threw once threw a pair of channel locks gently put it back round n tapped into cradle tgdn i luse some low temp grease in sealThanks for posting. Glad to hear the new bearing resolved your issue. Still puzzling that you had the whole clip popping issue to begin with. To date you are still the only one I know of that had that issue.
Interesting that you were able to get the seal in through the tunnel. Did you have to deform it at all to get it in?
slimjim2525
Lifetime Member
I can say with 100% certainty that the wedge flat out works. I needed to replace my track and obviously had the whole sled apart. Just replaced the track this past week. I needed a gear puller to get the bearing off the shaft. I have had the wedge in this new drive shaft for a little over 8K miles. Thats a couple years worth of riding for me. I didn't try to take the bearing off the shaft before this, just serviced it by cleaning and regreasing. I think Travis is correct. If you have a new shaft, go with the wedge. I set mine to 48 ft/lbs. If you have an older shaft, go with the new bearing.
Shagnos
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
$180 is the downside.This new concept drive shaft repair ,utilizing a UNWORN inboard section on the drive shaft ,as well as a pressed in collar on the bearing end I.D. is better than what came out of the factory all these years. The added plus is no new drive shaft expense,and no need for hours of dis assembl/re-assembly.there is no downside
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