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Best belt for Winder?

ROCKERDAN said:
8DN, Longer, cheaper cost, harder compound, add one shim to have it above secondary(high like a DOO)

8JP, Shorter, more expensive, softer compound, larger top cog, 2 shims(stock) ride even with secondary.

Only difference is max top speed with 8jp is 2-3mph faster(all else equal) due to shorter belt. The 8dn was designed for sleds prior to merger when Yammie CtC was more....Now in this chassie the CtC is closer hence shorter belt.

FWIW, there are far more snapped 8jp out there, the 8dn will have a much harder time snapping as its longer.

With more gear you also have less chance of snapping a belt IMO, as you are not pulling belt so far into OD.

Dan
Click to expand...

X2. Spot on Dan!!!
 

I'm not sure what is causing some belt issues but I know it's not heat. Today I checked my clutch compared to my Wife's 2016 1200's clutch and mine was warm to the touch and her's was hot. Very impressed with how cool these clutches run. I'm thinking Yamaha will have either a calibration or belt change coming.
 
XP123 said:
I'm not sure what is causing some belt issues but I know it's not heat. Today I checked my clutch compared to my Wife's 2016 1200's clutch and mine was warm to the touch and her's was hot. Very impressed with how cool these clutches run. I'm thinking Yamaha will have either a calibration or belt change coming.
Click to expand...
Yeah its keeping me up at night Tom knows! lol

My 1200 setup rocks(for a measly 135 stock sled) and the pb80 setup cooks hot! But my 1200 has never blown a belt or even hurt one, they just keep ticking along.

But the winder, runs nice temps....long long hi speed lake runs and belts/sheaves are just warm at most..can hold hand on them.

I think the stock weights have less grip then the larger curved aftermarkets like dalton, HHs, and STMs. I am not convinced on the coil bind, even though I did have sheave machined on spring pocket just to be sure. I now have 22 gear in toms, so this should help, along with running cheaper 8dn which is longer.

Belts are not "wearing", they are snapping i half. That mean primary is pulling the belt apart, secondary is not opening enough for primary.....I sometimes wonder about the new OD primary, being not in synch with the secondary, something is holding back for belt to snap.

Gearing 22, will keep clutches out of deep OD, that alone would help. Or even simpler, a 8DN belt, longer.

Dan
 
Dan not all 8jp's are snapping in half. Some are grenading and leaving a mess. In fact I've seen more like that vs snapping in half. Not sure where you are getting this info. Starting to have flashbacks of "daag" in dootalk!
 
Doowithblue said:
Dan not all 8jp's are snapping in half. Some are grenading and leaving a mess. In fact I've seen more like that vs snapping in half. Not sure where you are getting this info. Starting to have flashbacks of "daag" in dootalk!
Click to expand...
Just reading....all ones I read about snapped....I have not seen one grenade.
 
Mine grenaded yesterday with about 1600KM on it. Just exploded.. Luckily nothing broke and i had a spare.....
 
8dn is a better belt for sw but misses OD. Gates carbon when hot feel like a bungee cord....

Im am gonna try the ultimax XS 8jp lenght. This belt is suppose to be the best belt to run 1100t boosted
 
My 8 JP grenaded at 550 miles. Pieces everywhere. I have Thunder Products in the primary and had the secondary wound to 70 degrees and the setup was rocking. When the dealer did the 500 mile they must have checked the rollers by taking the helix off and put it back at 60 degrees. Sled made it less than 40 miles like that. I felt it slipping but was waiting for an intersection to take a look. It didn't make it there. Cleaned up the clutches, put secondary back to 70 and broke in the new belt easy. Ran it for 900 miles so far on that belt with little dust and no more issues.

FWIW my friends slipped more at 70 vs 60 on the secondary. His clutching is stock though.
 
Snapped 2 Gates Carbon 8dn length. 350 miles. Switches to stock 8jp for 1000 miles. Looks very good. Pulled it this weekend and put a fresh Yamaha 8dn on put 300 miles on it. Pounded it plenty of times. I do not like the dust of the 8jp. The gates carbon i can snap at will. Pounded it WFO let up for a few seconds hammer it BANG!!!! I also do not think its ENTIRELY a length issue with top speeds with the 8jp vs 8dn. They are clearly made of different materials. Sometimes that can make a big difference in top speeds also. The Gates carbon 8dn IS FAST but does not stay together for me. It's a very sticky belt IMO
 
belts that snap in half is a slip and grab situation...i.e. from a temporary locked up clutch (binding) or maybe ....snow, water , oil (from oiled filter) or anti freeze on clutches? I know theres light showing through the belly pan in spots...I'll be sealing with caulk.



I took my secondary and dry cycled it...noticed rough castings hanging up...took a dremel to the cast edges so nothing hangs up..noticed the extreme play in the main bushing....at some point in time a bushing is in order..also ....the sheaves need to come together more i feel (machining)
 
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Doowithblue said:
Dan not all 8jp's are snapping in half. Some are grenading and leaving a mess. In fact I've seen more like that vs snapping in half. Not sure where you are getting this info. Starting to have flashbacks of "daag" in dootalk!
Click to expand...

Mine disintegrated into pieces. Was not running wide open. Maybe 65-70 mph. Broke in correctly. Did go up one hole on secondary.
 
Lot of back door fixes here..and some are getting close...

I will tell you this much ..its not the belt, so much, that changes the speed..it is the length and width......the length dictates where the ramp sits on the rollers...the longer belt pulls the rpm down..a shorter belt revs more..

The last generation Doo race sleds....needed the short belt for the start..the ramp tuck was such that it needed to move right away..so the normal short belt worked best the 288..

Sooooo.. the belt is simply changing your shift..for some..into the sweet spot ..to others out of it....

This issue is not new..it is the new HP that is making it surface..

That should get some thinking.....

My Yamaha race sleds in the 70's (by our design) had the belt sticking way out of the secondary..maybe only a 1/3 of the belt was in the sheave to start..
My trail Yamaha Phazer..the belt is 17 years old...I do carry a spare... we also machined our clutches to tuck our weight under more..

You see Yamaha has (had) the biggest dia. weight bolt circle..why..so they could make their weight lighter ...I didn't like the lag...on the start..
 
Bigbluemachine said:
Was this a bad move??
Click to expand...

Well..if you tightened the secondary..it would have held the shift back..so..depending on many things..the end result would be lower belt speed..as one thing...

I just put a big number helix nickel plated on mine 146 track non turbo.......( I wanted to start at the extreme end) and wound the spring up..gained about 14 KPH ,,but not letting it rev ..next step..less helix.
Holds the rpm at least....OEM it dropped over a 1000 from peak..

I am wondering if my farmers dyno will work on a 4/ like it does a 2/

Hope the winter lasts ..I work slow these days..
 
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