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Oupsss my eyes play me trick....:rolleyes:
Its all good. I actually respect the reverse angle theory alot. I just like the straight angle helixes. Especially steeper angle helixes. I think a higher angle to a shallow is a very good possibility in some cases.. I sill feel strongly about the belt compounds combined with other things(springs)(helix angles) with the clutching on these winders.
 

Just to clarify. If running a aftermarket helix (dalton, whoever) they have extra clearance in the spring pocket so no need to shim if
you go back to the stock secondary spring?
Wouldn't think so, and maybe even wrap the stock secondary spring tighter then 3/3? whats next 6/1 i believe
 
The thing is not every tune needs reverse angle to spool the turbo. Try that reverse on the Hurricane race tune and it will over rev very hard! The tune makes the engine spool on the race tunes and you have to run bigger start helixs to shift it fast.

You have to quit telling people to run these reverse angle helixs, although they may work on the EVO and possibly a very few other tunes, its bad advice for others, wasting money and slowing some way down from where they could be running.
What helix are you running?
 
The thing is, there are so many variables..tracks, track lengths, studded or not, what kind of studs, Are the studs working to get it to transfer. There is no magical setup for all those variables. I run 180 1.64 INS Hornets in my RTX which transfers like mad, and doesn't spin off the line. The setup in my sled most likely wouldn't be for a guy with no studs, or even studs that don't penetrate. My EVO stage 4 with my setup loves the straight 35. Again, there is no one setup that will work equal on every winder out there. Just WAY too many variables.
 
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I have a thunder orange secondary spring and Dalton 33/35 helix I will sell cheap if somebody wants to try it
 
I have a thunder orange secondary spring and Dalton 33/35 helix I will sell cheap if somebody wants to try it
What did you change your setup to? Still using big venom kit?
 
What did you change your setup to? Still using big venom kit?
Yes I still have the venom kit. I went with a Dalton Black/Orange spring and stock helix. For my type of riding I like it better. The 33/35 is snappier corner to corner but I like a little less downshift and prefer a quicker upshift. I'm also in the minority of not liking too much engine brake. The 33/35 helix and orange secondary spring increases downshift and engine braking.
 
Yes I still have the venom kit. I went with a Dalton Black/Orange spring and stock helix. For my type of riding I like it better. The 33/35 is snappier corner to corner but I like a little less downshift and prefer a quicker upshift. I'm also in the minority of not liking too much engine brake. The 33/35 helix and orange secondary spring increases downshift and engine braking.
Ok, thanks. I just tried mine with all TP stuff, but am still breaking in new belt. So, didn't do any hard pulls yet. Did notice a little more engine break. Initial grab on bottom end was good.
Just wanted to know if the whole TP set up caused any issues for you, since you were selling the spring.
 
Three years have passed...
What helix and secondary spring are you guys running today?
:sled2:
 
Still straight 38 with thunder products Orange secondary spring at 6/3 wrap.

What weigths in primary?

I have mostly read negative reviews about TP orange. Great it works for you! If you compare it with dalton black/orange in Dalton chart TP is almost equivalent to black/orange except torsion?

TP orange
Torsion 13 kg
Comp.load in kg: 29, 41, 55

Dalton black/orange
Torsion 8,5 kg
Comp.load in kg: 31, 43, 52
 
For the most part I'm using a straight 35 with Dalton arms in the primary. Dalton B/O gen 1 on around a 90 wrap using XS825 belt, also I run Hi-Torque brand rollers in the secondary which roll super easy and take less primary weight. These rollers make for much less secondary spring pressure on my drill press scale too! All depends on the conditions and intended usage.

If I use the 8JP or 8DN belt I have to increase the spring wrap to 100 wrap on the Dalton B/O, or go up to at least a spring like the EPI Cat purple at 9&3 or 0&1 using the Hi-torque secondary rollers. If using the stock Yamaha secondary rollers you can back off substantially on the secondary spring.

There is really no difference between Gen 1 & Gen 2 Dalton B/O that I can tell on the scale or by testing it at zero wrap, supposedly gen 2 is 10 less degrees on the tangs, but I don't see it myself. Both of them zero out at 40 degrees with no wrap on the helix, (in other words the helix does straight down on the studs with no wrap). So 40 actually equals zero starting points on both version 1 & version 2 springs on the spring I have in my hands.

35 seems to be the best helix I have found for trail use using Dalton primary weights no matter what belt or secondary rollers get used. If you go to something like a 38 helix it needs more secondary spring. A progressive helix like a 39-35 or 41-37 has the RPM down at the first half of the shift, and reverse helix's like a 35-39 had the RPM's dropping at the upper portion of the speed scale using Dalton primary weights, other weights may vary.
 


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