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bleeding brakes?

i don’t know guys if they’re a way to plug the hose when you remove the caliper to prevent from leaking fluid?
Now that I have done it I have no doubt it will be very easy the next time. Splitting the caliper is by far the easiest way to remove the rotor and now I'm not worried about bleeding the brakes.
 

so is this a normal throw for a brake lever?

I can feel it start to build pressure about half way through the throw but can pull through it. Definitely feels spongy.
 
so is this a normal throw for a brake lever?

I can feel it start to build pressure about half way through the throw but can pull through it. Definitely feels spongy.

No, my brake gets to parallel to the grip or just past parallel if I oh sh1t squeeze it. It doesn't get anywhere near the bar.
 
The easiest way to bleed brakes is to fill reservoir from the bottom bleeder using a lever actuated oiler.

I fill an oiler with brake fluid
Remove reservoir cap
Connnect rubber hose from oiler to bleeder screw
Crack open bleeder screw
Pump oil up through bleeder screw until reservoir is full.
Close bleeder screw
Put cap on reservoir.

Bam...nice hard lever!
 
Last edited:
The easiest way to bleed brakes is to fill reservoir from the bottom bleeder using a lever actuated oiler.

I fill an oiler with brake fluid
Remove reservoir cap
Connnect rubber hose from oiler to bleeder screw
Crack open bleeder screw
Pump oil up through bleeder screw until reservoir is full.
Close bleeder screw
Put cap on reservoir.

Bam...nice hard lever!
That’s the way that has worked best for me also.
I just bought a cheap lever type oil can from Auto store and added some tubing to it to fit the bleeder screw. My Brake Bleeder dissapeared!

I usually give it a couple of conventional bleeding skirts after the bottom to top fill. And for really tough ones, try leaving the parking brake on overnight. Those steps should make it a one finger, very little throw, brake lever again.
 
Those reverse vacuum bleeders (pressure oilers) work well as they push air along until it reaches the reservoir, frankly the first time I saw someone use one I felt like an idiot for ever doing it any other way, it just makes a lot of sense.
 
I've got a syringe that I have used on my ktm clutch that I can give a try tonight.

Last night I cranked the bars to put the lever in the highest position and put the parking brake on. We will see how it is later today.
 
reverse bled a few times and can still pull it to the bar like it is in the video.

My other sleds hit a wall when pulling on the lever.
 
reverse bled a few times and can still pull it to the bar like it is in the video.

My other sleds hit a wall when pulling on the lever.

Were you using the syringe to pull from the master cylinder or pushing from the brake bleed screw?
 
Were you using the syringe to pull from the master cylinder or pushing from the brake bleed screw?
Reverse, and I could see the level rise.
Additionally I purged the air from the syringe before bleeding.
 
Reverse, and I could see the level rise.
Additionally I purged the air from the syringe before bleeding.

Its strange, its a pretty short run from the caliper to master cylinder. You do need enough velocity that any air can't simply stay stuck in place with fluid moving past it. I just had a quick look at my sled and I don't see any particularly high spots in the line where air could get trapped so I imagine it is somewhere in the caliper itself. You may have to orient the caliper so that the line to the master cylinder is at the high point, tap it a bit to get that bubble dislodged.
 
Make sure the master cylinder is level so air doesnt get trapped in there.
 
Used this vacuum pump multiple times on mine, work great.

1649883686026.png
 
I have a compressor version of that.


It didn't work
 
If you do have to remove the brake caliper, put a bolt with sealing washers and nut through the banjo fitting as soon as you remove it to prevent draining.
 


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