bleeding brakes?

[gerbes2]

I have a compressor version of that.


It didn't work

Maybe something different in system. This has worked perfect and simple many times in my dads and my winder every year as part on summer PM

 

[Motorhead]

Sounds like you have a tough one!

I have seen one that was tough! Caliper was split and examined before trying to add #4 DOT brake fluid, and it would not give him any brake whatsoever, once filled and bleed the conventional way, fill from top and bleed through bottom bleeder screw!

Whereas I had done the reverse fill a couple of times, I offered to try.

After we were done reverse filling, we tried 2 skirts of the conventional method because we only got a slight brake afterwards!

That gave us a bit more brake but still not the just the finger touch brake he had prior, so he decided to just try taping on the caliper and master cylinder. That did not do much, so after re filling and placing the rubber diaphragm and plastic master cylinder Cover back on, we took turns just working that lever for what seemed like an hour or so! It finally gave him about 3/4 brake!

He had said that he read from someone on TY about just leaving the parking brake on overnight!

Well whatever the problem, his brake came back to 100%.

So this year I was very Leary of splitting my caliper again because of what my buddy went through, but I did. Glad to say I had no problem getting a full brake using the method I posted at beginning of this thread!

The difference between his and mine?
His caliper body (sled side) emptied, while mine just seemed to hold it’s fluid just hanging there!

We thought that an air bubble got caught in that caliper body???

So yes, some are easy to prime and bleed, others, not so!

 

[stgdz]

So I went to a dealer today and checked out a stealth master cylinder, granted it was a Polaris but I confirmed that I don't have some sort of herculean strength and could not get the poo lever to go to the handle

This is the amount of fluid I have drained via gravity bleed and also trying handle pressurization.


Still like a sponge.
Tonight I'm trying the handle strapped to the bar with rope. Should I take the cover off or leave it on?

 

[stgdz]

And one of the other things I'm considering is putting a screw driver between the pads and the cylinder and then trying to bleed it. I would take the cover off and remove some of the fluid.

I figure that may push more air out of the cylinder.

 

[RobX-1]

Rather than use a screw driver to pry between the pads to compress the cylinder, what I would is install the brake pad that butts up against the cylinder and then use a C-clamp around the backside of the cylinder (just some flat spot) and the brake pad so as to use the clamp to compress the cylinder in all the way. I do this when changing my car brakes and also did it on my Apex when replacing its brake pads. Just need to find a spot on the cylinder and it doesn't take much effort to compress the cylinder.

 

[Fleecer]

So I went to a dealer today and checked out a stealth master cylinder, granted it was a Polaris but I confirmed that I don't have some sort of herculean strength and could not get the poo lever to go to the handle

This is the amount of fluid I have drained via gravity bleed and also trying handle pressurization.
View attachment 167995

Still like a sponge.
Tonight I'm trying the handle strapped to the bar with rope. Should I take the cover off or leave it on?

Cover on!

 

[stgdz]

Rather than use a screw driver to pry between the pads to compress the cylinder, what I would is install the brake pad that butts up against the cylinder and then use a C-clamp around the backside of the cylinder (just some flat spot) and the brake pad so as to use the clamp to compress the cylinder in all the way. I do this when changing my car brakes and also did it on my Apex when replacing its brake pads. Just need to find a spot on the cylinder and it doesn't take much effort to compress the cylinder.

When I've done that the caliper is off the frame from whatever it was on. Some calipers have a cutout so you can you use the ram on the c-clamp.to push.the single piston in.

Not sure if the procross is a dual piston
Also the dealer wouldn't try to bleed my cat, would only do Yamahas


Assholes

 

[stgdz]

Wonder if this is part of my problem

 

[cannondale27]

Wonder if this is part of my problem View attachment 168004View attachment 168005

What the! Disc isnt small enough on ID. What disc is that? Ot did you just put that disc on and your old was grooved or something? You could just grind that area off a new set of pads. Definitly not Ideal for braking but I always put a chamfer on my pads leading and trailing edges to stop squealing and have never felt any loss in performance so I would do it.

 

[stgdz]

Bdx light weight rotor, I did camfer the edges on the pads but the light weight rotor went through the pads fairly quickly.

I ordered a new set of brake pads from Dennis Kirk tonight and they should be here tomorrow.

DP Brakes High Friction HH+ Sintered Metal Brake Pads - SDP518SNX Snowmobile - Dennis Kirk

Find the DP Brakes High Friction HH+ Sintered Metal Brake Pads - SDP518SNX at Dennis Kirk. Shop our complete selection of Snowmobile parts and accessories including the DP Brakes High Friction HH+ Sintered Metal Brake Pads - SDP518SNX.

www.denniskirk.com

 

[Turboflash]

Wonder if this is part of my problem View attachment 168004View attachment 168005

To me, it looks like pads are toast. From pic 1 the center of pad is bubbled/toast. Mike once posted that made his brake lever spongy.

 

[KnappAttack]

To me, it looks like pads are toast. From pic 1 the center of pad is bubbled/toast. Mike once posted that made his brake lever spongy.

Yes, that BDX disc ate those pads something fierce. Never seen pads that worn!

I never had a spongy brake, always had a firm lever, just weak brakes that didn't want to stop without a lot of effort. I just wire brushed the pads to bring back the brake performance to new. I'm on the factory light weight race disc that came on the 17 LE's. though. I'm still running the stock pads that I wire brushed and brakes are great again. Must have just been severely glazed up.

 

[stgdz]

Yeah they didn't look like that a thousand miles ago. I put the brake in because I took it on a 300 mile trip and it started to loose feeling after some high speed slow downs. Thought it was the

My kids 4000 RR has a light weight factory rotor so I figured this would be fine. That little lip on the pad was due to the inner section of the rotor being reduced in thickness.

I may give ssi a call.
Mike I remember you looking at this type of rotor, still thinking about it?

 

[1nc 2000]

The retaining pin hole on the fwd end of pad wears and pad sits deeper and allows wear like that. Happened to mine.

 

[KnappAttack]

Yeah they didn't look like that a thousand miles ago. I put the brake in because I took it on a 300 mile trip and it started to loose feeling after some high speed slow downs. Thought it was the

My kids 4000 RR has a light weight factory rotor so I figured this would be fine. That little lip on the pad was due to the inner section of the rotor being reduced in thickness.

I may give ssi a call.
Mike I remember you looking at this type of rotor, still thinking about it?

My 17 LE already comes with a race brake, I don't remember thinking about a BDX disc for any reason at all. I did buy some different pads for my sled when I was loosing braking performance, but wire brushing the stock pads brought them right back to life and one finger braking again, so never put them in.