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Blown Belt

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I put cat rollers in last night, i also checked belt depth with the spring out, I would say i could shim the helix a solid 1/8" or a tad more before my belt would bottom out.

My spring had a few wear marks, nothing bad. I have 72 miles.

I remember back with my 05 F7 had spring bind issues we took out the tabbed spring and put in a coil spring and an aftermarket company made a thin bearing to go under it so it wouldn't bind up.

That sled stock was 98 mph, after the spring change, 106 mph.


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Where are the marks? How often did you pin it. Because I think it's when you pin it the spring coils just stack up on each other and can not compress anymore=bang belt breaks

D D made the part your speaking of. And it worked damn well back then
 

I haven't experienced any belt issues yet however I haven't pinned it either.

From all the threads it seems like something is not right in the secondary spring when I put it back together sure don't seem to fit well.

I don't like these junk cast helix either.


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What would be a negative to shimming the helix up 1/8" if it will not bottom out the belt in the secondary? With a straight angle helix all should be good?
Not sure what your asking. But it might take some pressure off the spring which might make it a tad softer. Just wind it more. I think it's 7-1 instead of 3-3 stock.
 
I haven't been past 6k. Still breaking it in by the book.

Im hoping to have 500 miles on after this weekend.


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You have marks on your secondary spring and only been to 6k rpm. What's that tell you? Not ripping on you just pointing it out
 
You have marks on your secondary spring and only been to 6k rpm. What's that tell you? Not ripping on you just pointing it out

I am far from a clutch expert but I'm guessing there's going to be a belt broke in half here soon.

So where is everybody adding the shim? under the helix or on top of the helix cover?


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Under. Other ty member explains it on page 5. Read back a bit. Also you may issue with nuts going back on in that they don't cover all the threads.
 
To those adding a shim under the helix. You only need a 1/16" to eliminate coil bind. Make sure your washers are the same thickness and you make sure the shims fit the helix and towers.

Correct method would be taking to a machine shop and getting the spring pocket machined.
 
Like jonlafon1 mentioned....if your coil spring shows paint missing between the coils....you are spring coil binding.
 
With all these blown belts has anyone experienced any damage to thier plastics as a result of the blown belt - there is no belt guard below the clutches and at 95mph I'm worried a blown belt might do some damage??
 
Many things I have found with the secondary that are being tested right now with great results.

Add a clutch alignment spec. and everyone will be much happier with their SW's.

These same issues plagued the Viper and now the SW
 
With all these blown belts has anyone experienced any damage to thier plastics as a result of the blown belt - there is no belt guard below the clutches and at 95mph I'm worried a blown belt might do some damage??

I had the 1st one blow at 8 miles on it....took the foam out on the lower side panel. Since I machined my secondary, over 600 miles on an 8JP belt with very little belt dust....Oh, and I am running an aftermarket clutch kit also.

There has been damage to some lower plastic....but don't remember whose it was.
 


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