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Blown Belt


Jafo1970 said:
I have nothing behind my secondary. Doesn't the OSP adjuster float it, so it wouldn't matter.
Click to expand...

The OSP or Thunder Products adjuster only allows you correct belt deflection and with a belt removal option (if you have it). Your secondary will float but only after you are moving and the belt is partially down in the secondary.

The washer behind the secondary needs to be there for correct clutch alignment. If you do not have this washer behind the secondary your clutch alignment is probably off causing twist in the belt resulting in heat, belt dust, black marks and slipping. Try to aim for 2.400" which is close to the maximum for this measurement (58.1mm - 61.1mm).
 
SEVS11 said:
Wel ....ad me to the list. Just under 400 miles and I snapped a belt in half. I am slightly boosted (TD Eco) , muffler , daltons and cat rollers(two rollers touching and one not). I sure hope someone figures this out.

I bought the winder solely because I knew it would be better on belts then the team clutches. Boy was I wrong

I had my fair share of cat belt blowers so I sure hope this gets figured out fast. I'm bummed
Click to expand...
Do you have a lot of belt dust? We're is your secondary spring set at? How many studs?
It's the damn helix and helix spring IMO. That's causing a lot of this. CHECK helix springs. Look for paint wear. I am very lucky to have ANOTHER TY member close as he machined my secondary pocket for more spring clearance. I have not had a chance to test yet but I will report back. ASAP. Not sure he wants me putting it out here, but I'm betting he has this secondary figured out.
 
dsimonRX1 said:
Has anyone shimmed the helix up and have miles on?
Click to expand...
Pm the guy maybe who is on page 5 I believe. The other member who was explaining about what your asking.
Short nuts with lock tight? I know it would give you better spring clearance and actually better shift out. You might not have a belt blower either. Only one way to find out.
 
Fleecer said:
Black ring appears to be caused from excessive idling so I think you re alright there, but others will chime in if im wrong. I don't think you ll have an issue as by looking at your clutch it appears your belt has only been 1 inch from the top. If I had to guess you probably haven't gone more than 90-95 mph. The color looks good higher up so things appear to being working well in my opinion.

If you'd like to join the club, you re gonna have to press harder, maybe put a tuner, do some racing in the slush on a 60 degree day, that should help you join the brotherhood!!!! Lol. Just kidding.
Click to expand...
Yup, you guessed correct. I'm still in break in mode with only 74 miles on and haven't pinned it yet. And I'll be real honest. I'm totally afraid that when I do, "Bang!" the belt is gonna go. So, I have been on and off the gas and haven't gone over 50 (yes its killing me) yet. Seems everyone you talk to gives you different break in advice.
The black ring maybe from trailer loading then, but I always let the temp light go off before taking off and I don't try to gun it when first loading or driving it. Although, I do try to get a running start up the ramp because it is a pita getting stuck half way up or spinning and chewing the surface up with the studs.
 
Sec is at 3-3 and I 've got 144 studs. Belt dust was way more prominent within the first 50km then it was more "normal" after that. FYI... When my belt blew my clutches were cool and barely warm. Jonlafon1 please post a pic of your machined spring pocket or advise how much "meat" that you had removed and it what exact location.

My bud is a machinist and would do this for me as well. FWIW my Ex cat dealer claims zero belt failures so far on many boosted sleds with Team clutches. I think we have two concerns here......They need to find out as to why not all rollers are contacting and this will not only save the rollers but also perhaps stop the belt blowing and figure out the spring binding issue then we should be in the clear.
 
Jafo1970 said:
I have nothing behind my secondary. Doesn't the OSP adjuster float it, so it wouldn't matter.
Click to expand...

With float it is better, but if the offset isn't correct your relying on the belt to float the secondary all the time which causes belt wear. Better to adjust offset and have it as true as possible to start with.


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.070 out of spring pocket. Don't have SECONDARY back. My sled is at dealer for oil leak. If guys are seeing paint missing on spring coils this should help.

How about A NEW SECONDARY SPRING WITH THINNER Diameters OR ONE LESS COIL??? Aftermarket guys listening ??? And can you make it so it lays perfectly FLAT in spring pocket. O and FLAT into helix spring pocket please.

Thanks you
 
Last edited:
I put cat rollers in last night, i also checked belt depth with the spring out, I would say i could shim the helix a solid 1/8" or a tad more before my belt would bottom out.

My spring had a few wear marks, nothing bad. I have 72 miles.

I remember back with my 05 F7 had spring bind issues we took out the tabbed spring and put in a coil spring and an aftermarket company made a thin bearing to go under it so it wouldn't bind up.

That sled stock was 98 mph, after the spring change, 106 mph.


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