Blown Belt

[XP123]

Once the sled drives off, and the secondary begins its shift....the helix moves off the adjuster, so now the "shift" or "where belt rides" is determined by the springs. So the deflection will help things on initial drive off, but after the shift begins its all controlled by what components are in the clutches.

Shorter belt on the other hand will MPH more since its a different ratio. Good proof is the longer 8DN vs. Stock shorter belt.

Dan

I laugh when guys tell me that they adjusted their belt deflection and picked up a couple MPH on top.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I laugh when guys tell me that they adjusted their belt deflection and picked up a couple MPH on top.

Im anal about deflection anyway.....But I do find myself backing things off just a tad looser on this model with the "mechanical reverse" always in back of my mind. After digging into the chaincase last week and seeing the sliding fork in action, I always envision that fork motion each time I push the reverse button now....Less is more on these

 

[SUC_doo]

Yep yep ^
Deflection to loose and sled will bog and feel sluggish off the line. That’s about it. If you have notched weights it will trench, rpms will go up down, up down, up down

Once the sled drives off, and the secondary begins its shift....the helix moves off the adjuster, so now the "shift" or "where belt rides" is determined by the springs. So the deflection will help things on initial drive off, but after the shift begins its all controlled by what components are in the clutches.

Shorter belt on the other hand will MPH more since its a different ratio. Good proof is the longer 8DN vs. Stock shorter belt.

Dan

when going at low speeds. No affect on anything after that.

Thanks boys you guys are full of great information.

 

[Big_Phil]

it wasn't hot.....got rite in there and put new belt on... clutches were only warn to the touch

https://ty4stroke.com/threads/clutch-observation-and-issue-calling-clutch-experts-here.151919/

Here check out this thread I just started. This is why people are snapping belts in 2 and show it on video. Something isnt right with these secondary clutches compared to Yamaha Button secondary.

 

[bleedyamaha]

Well I shredded belt number 2 today. 500 miles on sled. Followed wife around today so no speed records set. Hit a couple straight aways and crept up to 80/90 back down to 60 and the belt split apart. Clutches were hot. Totally stock with new secondary rollers after first belt went at 375 miles. Running studs and belt adjuster. Could it be any possible way the belt adjuster may have anything to do with these belts grenading? Think I am going to switch helix and spring and see what happens. 8dn is going on also. This is so B.S. that this is happening to a stock sled

 

[PowderFalcon]

Well I shredded belt number 2 today. 500 miles on sled. Followed wife around today so no speed records set. Hit a couple straight aways and crept up to 80/90 back down to 60 and the belt split apart. Clutches were hot. Totally stock with new secondary rollers after first belt went at 375 miles. Running studs and belt adjuster. Could it be any possible way the belt adjuster may have anything to do with these belts grenading? Think I am going to switch helix and spring and see what happens. 8dn is going on also. This is so B.S. that this is happening to a stock sled

man, that sucks you are experiencing that on your new sled.... my first thought would be the secondary adjuster shouldnt have anything to do with it... but maybe you are onto something here? we have so many clutching threads and plenty of guys searching for answers, but this question has yet to be asked!

the obvious one though, have you checked your clutch alignment? many of us have had to remove the shim behind the inner sheave to get the alignment within spec. also is your secondary spring coil binding? That was an issue on the '17s. you'll need to run a different spring or shim your helix.

 

[SumpBuster]

Need a 'control' sw...one that doesn't blow belts, and find out what's different on the good one...

 

[ClutchMaster]

Well I shredded belt number 2 today. 500 miles on sled. Followed wife around today so no speed records set. Hit a couple straight aways and crept up to 80/90 back down to 60 and the belt split apart. Clutches were hot. Totally stock with new secondary rollers after first belt went at 375 miles. Running studs and belt adjuster. Could it be any possible way the belt adjuster may have anything to do with these belts grenading? Think I am going to switch helix and spring and see what happens. 8dn is going on also. This is so B.S. that this is happening to a stock sled

I’m with PowderFalcon on this one, you need to check you belt alignment before trying any changes. Offset, Center to Center and parallel.

 

[bleedyamaha]

Thanks guys I have the alignment set and also had the shop check them after the first time this happen. Now center to center hasn’t been checked.

 

[fatchance]

The guys blowing belts need to read through the entire threads pertaining to blown belts from last season. I feel like there was enough remedies there that everybody had it squared away by the end of the season. That said, with all these different clutch combinations flying around and some guys tuned and some stock youre just increasing possibilities for change and problems. Go back to basics or stock if you're not tuned. Like clutchmaster stated and I'm sure it has been stated several times since the beginning of this thread. CHECK; Offset, alignment, deflection. The stock secondary binds.....shim the helix or cut the pocket. These are the things that i did before putting any miles on my sled and i have yet to blow one belt in 1100 miles. I beat the living snot out of my belts, Its full throttle on and off without any consideration of going easy on the belt.
Just starting using the Hurricane 240R and clutch temps are still reasonable.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Just wondering which Sec rollers?

Just an observation with my torlon rollers from OSP, they are so hard that they actually slide often, rather then roll. I realize not many of us talk about secondary rollers anymore and it may be a non issue, But these ones I have seem like they have too much play at the axle, and are so smooth and hard they tend to slide at times.

I had great success with ONE roller company, its the only hi performance roller out there I know of that is not torlon. Its a fiber roller that seem to "grip" the ramp, so it ROLLS and does not slide ever.....I installed them on Toms last season and he is still running that same 8DN belt I put on early on, with stock helix and spring.

This is just a hunch as I was digging into things really trying to think outside the box abit. I have several theories about this that may or may not pan out, but for now I decided to order some Hi Torque Rollers from Out west in Canada. Not a sponsor here so please use google - hitorque roller

Anyway, I just wonder about this.....let me know which rollers you installed.

Dan

 

[DMCTurbo]

Cat torlons installed for 3000 miles with good results.

 

[dgjr636]

Same here. Cat rollers installed from the beginning and a
Hard 3200+ miles later looked like new still.

 

[XP123]

I still have my stock secondary rollers and stock belt @ 2000 miles. Remember though I'm a Grandpa and don't ride much over 50 mph.

 

[dgjr636]

Thanks Joe.

You can’t take a high hp drag car and race it up a down the street without some type of issue.

I ran my LTX Winder last season hard for for over 3200 trail miles. Yes I rode it hard but not like a idiot. I blew 2 belts in approx 2800 miles riding like this. About the same result as I ever got out of a 1200 or a 800 doo. That being said I think my Winder faired well with the belts.

I also rode mile for mile with my riding partner and he blew more belts on his 850 renegade doo than I did and I was miles ahead all the time.

Yes there is a wide range of Winder owners in the belt longevity but you can’t just blame it on the unit.