brad4639, Custom built tunnel. Nytro home build

[brad4639]

How much is that fueling system cost, and what's included?

I bought all the stuff well over a month ago from him in separate parts on different occasions so I don't remember exactly what the prices were. It would come with injectors and harnesses, new PC5 box with 2 map sensors and all the wiring premade so its plug and play and a new charge tube to house one of the map sensors. It also comes with his own digital gauge pod that reads your AFR, Boost, Air temp and a couple other things. There's an autotune box thats also comes with it, that goes inplace of your current air/fuel sensor if you have one.
I think the injectors are around $225 and the pc5 with everything was $600? I bought mine from him without the Autotune and his digital guage, so it was cheaper, but I wish I would have just spent the money and bought that too... I'll probably be getting that in the near future.

 

[brad4639]

I bought a set of Skinz a-arms to try in place of my Timbersleds (bark busters are now for sale), but the only problem is that skinz used the factory spindles and mine were both cracked where the skis bolt on. I called skinz to see if I could use the timbersled spindles that I already have and they said it will not work. Stock spindles are something like $200 each so I decided to design my own and make them better than stock. One thing I didn't like was that the left is a different part from the right. I designed mine to be universal by having the steering "knuckle" removable and used on either the left or right side. That being said, I made 1 extra spindle just incase something happens to one side or the other and I didn't need to make an extra left and right.


I don't have oilite so I used brass, its held up so far.

Powdercoated translucent red

pressed together

 

[brad4639]

Installing the a-arms:
There are a few things I disliked about the Skinz front end, first of all, I don't like the fact they they want you to buy a new set of $1000+ shocks from them just to move them forward and change the angle. My floats were just gone through and work fine. I did what they should have done and just put a shim in the shock tower and moved the shock to the front. I've got 2 trips on it so far without any issues.
The second thing I didn't like was the silly bent steering rods they come with. I've heard they bend quite easily and was apparent on mine. One was bent 3/4 of an inch farther than the other. Skinz has to bend them in order to get around from hitting the lower a arm. I used my stock rods and made a spacer to bring them up over the top of the a arm. It steers fine and is much stronger than skinz version.



Shock spacer with grade 8 bolt


Steering arm spacer

 

[brad4639]

I've built now, what I'm hoping to be the last tunnel extension. Third time is the charm. I went with a thinner alum. but it is now 6061 instead of the more flexible 5052. The extension is .080 and bumpers are .125 and its pretty sturdy now. I also shortened the overall length of the tunnel by 4 inches.

 

[brad4639]

Radiator delete:
To drop a little weight, cool the engine bay, and move some weight from the front to the back I made a radiator delete kit. Ordered a bottle from MPI for $25 and made the rest. The sled already had an MPI under tunnel cooling tubes, but I didn't trust that to be enough cooling since I sometimes ride trails in MN.
I took some 1 inch O.D. alum tube and ran a ball endmill down them to somewhat replicate cooling fins. Then I made a template for my design to fit around my intercooler.

 

[Barcode]

Nice build. But a word of caution. Keep a eye on the upper and lower shock mounts. With out the spherical bearing, the shock and or mounts will start to bind. We spent a entire season developing our kit to use stock shocks. We have a bin full of a-arms with broken shock mounts. We also thought and think the idea of needing $1K plus of shocks just to run a +forward a-ark kit was ridiculous! And by moving the tie rod end up like you have it will also start to mess with your steering as the suspension goes through its travel.
Keep up the good work

Allan

 

[brad4639]

Nice build. But a word of caution. Keep a eye on the upper and lower shock mounts. With out the spherical bearing, the shock and or mounts will start to bind. We spent a entire season developing our kit to use stock shocks. We have a bin full of a-arms with broken shock mounts. We also thought and think the idea of needing $1K plus of shocks just to run a +forward a-ark kit was ridiculous! And by moving the tie rod end up like you have it will also start to mess with your steering as the suspension goes through its travel.
Keep up the good work

Allan

Allan, I really appreciate the insight, especially from someone who knows a heck of a lot more about this than I do! Its going on the stand this weekend and I'll go over it with a fine tooth comb to check for paint cracks or any sign of binding. I never thought to take the air out of the shocks and see what the suspension it doing while going through the travel. Everything has seemed fine while riding it so far, but I may have to come up with a way to change things up if I don't like what I'm seeing. The last thing I want is for something to break when I'm out west on one of the 2-3 times I get out there a year.

Thanks again

Brad

 

[sorenson1610]

You should be able to retro your floats, buy the parts and install them yourself

 

[Barcode]

Just a FYI when you order any Fox shock that doesn't come from the actual big 4 manufactures they come standard with spherical bearings. If your stock shocks have rubber bushings in them you should be ok. at least for one season. Id then have a look at them. Id suspect they would wear out by being bound all the time. But that being said you could always try some polyurethane bushings. That stuff is available in many duro's and colours. Its pretty strong stuff.
Looking at your picks again the shock looks like it will hit the front on the upper arm when in full compression. With the skills you have I'd personally put the shock in the stock location but maybe build a block that positions it just beside where it mounts stock.

 

[brad4639]

Just a FYI when you order any Fox shock that doesn't come from the actual big 4 manufactures they come standard with spherical bearings. If your stock shocks have rubber bushings in them you should be ok. at least for one season. Id then have a look at them. Id suspect they would wear out by being bound all the time. But that being said you could always try some polyurethane bushings. That stuff is available in many duro's and colours. Its pretty strong stuff.
Looking at your picks again the shock looks like it will hit the front on the upper arm when in full compression. With the skills you have I'd personally put the shock in the stock location but maybe build a block that positions it just beside where it mounts stock.

My plan is to run it this way for the rest of the year, I only have 2 more trips planned, hopefully 3, and then put the spherical bearings in them after. I'll run it through its full travel friday and check for any issues. If need be, I'll figure something out sooner. Our snow pack in Minnesota is way down this year and hardly rideable so I won't be going out again for 2 weeks and can fix it in the mean time.

Thanks
Brad

 

[trosell14843]

Great read!!!

Sent from my HTC6600LVW using Tapatalk

 

[zx4ever]

How did the sled turn out.

 

[brad4639]

Ok, so I have not updated in a year. Many things changed and I had a bit of an issue.
First off I got a mtn fit hood (more like horrible fit hood). Took a couple days to make it fit and I built a LED headlight mount. The lights took a lot of research to find the best fit for me. If you're wondering, they are spot/flood combo. 8 degree spot lights and 30 degree flood. Ebay lights will not work, the angle is too wide and you'll out drive the lights.

 

[brad4639]

I had the Shock Guru rebuild my floats for me, went up to the U.P. with my wife for our first ride of the season. Got 30 miles and all hell broke loose. While pulling a wheelie, from what I can figure, the rear arm of my timbersled skid failed. The whole skid moved to the front of the sled, both of my fresh shocks ripped in half. The sheer force of this all this buckled and tore my tunnel, bent my running boards and threw me over the bars.





Theres a pretty long story about how I finally got it back to the trailer the next day. I'll make it short, my wife and I tried for 2 hours with a kids sled that froze and broke (-15 degrees that day). We had just given up and were going to find a dealer and try to get some help when my neighbor/good friend that I ride with, passed us on the side of the trail. Mind you this was a sunday and we were both 5 hours away from where we live and 10 miles from the nearest town off the trail. Complete dumb luck! We pulled my locked up sled using his and my wifes XP's.

 

[brad4639]

Insurance gave me $7k to fix it. So naturally, I went and bought a new sled instead and am letting this one sit in the shed Don't worry I'll fix it eventually and turn it into my "trail sled". The owner of Racewerx was selling his '15 viper with 0 miles on it. Some of you may have seen it at Hay Days a couple years ago in the Yamaha booth. I will be starting a build thread for this in the next few weeks. For now I won't be going quite as crazy as the nytro build, but I will be doing a custom (probably mid or rear mount) turbo kit and a few other different things.

'15 Viper MTX with all the '16 updates. BDX 36" front end. One off Racewerx wrap and all the other goodies he makes. 153 X 3" track.