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Check your chain

So my buddy came over with a puller. Came right off. Bad news though. The driveshaft is junk. It's worn to crap despite having the BOP's wedge for the last 5k miles. There were 3 rings of very very thin metal caught in the brake caliper which likely made it hard to come off. The bearing measured 1.77 inches ID, the shaft 1.65 inches OD. It was awful, and made my balls go into my throat. So for me the BOP wedge did not help, but there may be 2 factors. It went in when the sled had 2200 miles, and it was not in all the way, I put it in as far as the notch where you can get a wrench on it, so maybe it wasn't on far enough. I thought that's as far in as it was supposed to be. New shaft ordered, old shaft going to a friend in Indiana to get welded and turned down.

So, so far in one day, I have a link broken on my chain, the upper gear will need a new bushing pressed in, and need a new driveshaft. WTF Yamaha?
 

how hard do you operate the sled? Thanks for the very useful into on the chain problem, now I know my chain will need to be replaced around 7k miles...depending on knowing if you keep it pinned or a moderate operator such as myself. Thanks for the info..Joe
Just talked to my buddy in Michigan. He has 20k miles on his chain and it's good. So just check it. I'm the walking murphy's law.
 
chain would not go bad that fast unless there were underlying problems
 
I've seen chains go quicker than that for no apparent reason, guys replace them and drive on.

Recommend a good inspection of gears and remainder of all chain case internals.
 
Yeah, not sure about that. Sled has 7,200 miles, and I have been in the chaincase now 5 times. There have been no issues at all other than a worn upper gear bushing.

I have about that same mileage on my 2017 Winder. Have had chain stretching problems since the second time of opening my chaincase at somewhere around 1100 miles. My first chaincase inspection happened at 500 miles but all looked well whereas I was babying the sled trying to break in the motor by the book. I set my adjuster at finger tight and then 1 turn out, and by 800 miles it’s at 2.5 - 3 out. So new chain and 22T on order!
Once those and other parts come in, she is coming apart for maintenance and inspection, skid and all.
Not many have had my chain stretch problem, so I am hoping for a chain that stretches once on break in, and minimal stretching thereafter! Yep some of those chains were cheap.

So good catch, better now then in season...
 
Make sure you check gears, top bushing, bearings on driveshaft and jack shaft both sides. What may seem like a chain stretching could be other things.
 
Make sure you check gears, top bushing, bearings on driveshaft and jack shaft both sides. What may seem like a chain stretching could be other things.

Yes and thanks for the reminder!

I put a new track on last year, and also got new shaft and bearing under warranty! All else looked good except for shafts and bushings in the rear suspension . Front shock shafts need special attention! Cannot see damage until shocks are taken off of the suspension! Caught that during last years shock rebuilds.
The 22T top gear still looked new last year during my track change out. It had about 4K on it, so this year I shall change it out along with chain! Hope I found nothing else!!!
 
Thats great life out of a chain! I could only get 1000-2000 miles on my boosted apex chains. hard hard riding, with lots of jumps though. They would stretch so far they would stand out straight when holding in my hand!
 
So my buddy came over with a puller. Came right off. Bad news though. The driveshaft is junk. It's worn to crap despite having the BOP's wedge for the last 5k miles. There were 3 rings of very very thin metal caught in the brake caliper which likely made it hard to come off. The bearing measured 1.77 inches ID, the shaft 1.65 inches OD. It was awful, and made my balls go into my throat. So for me the BOP wedge did not help, but there may be 2 factors. It went in when the sled had 2200 miles, and it was not in all the way, I put it in as far as the notch where you can get a wrench on it, so maybe it wasn't on far enough. I thought that's as far in as it was supposed to be. New shaft ordered, old shaft going to a friend in Indiana to get welded and turned down.

So, so far in one day, I have a link broken on my chain, the upper gear will need a new bushing pressed in, and need a new driveshaft. WTF Yamaha?
Thanks for the heads up ,my XF 9000 going in for lower drive shaft refurbishment,with anti rotation pin in shaft,and a new upgraded slotted inner race on. NACHI Bearing.Less than $200 at Dealer.Good luck be safe
 

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So my buddy came over with a puller. Came right off. Bad news though. The driveshaft is junk. It's worn to crap despite having the BOP's wedge for the last 5k miles. There were 3 rings of very very thin metal caught in the brake caliper which likely made it hard to come off. The bearing measured 1.77 inches ID, the shaft 1.65 inches OD. It was awful, and made my balls go into my throat. So for me the BOP wedge did not help, but there may be 2 factors. It went in when the sled had 2200 miles, and it was not in all the way, I put it in as far as the notch where you can get a wrench on it, so maybe it wasn't on far enough. I thought that's as far in as it was supposed to be. New shaft ordered, old shaft going to a friend in Indiana to get welded and turned down.

So, so far in one day, I have a link broken on my chain, the upper gear will need a new bushing pressed in, and need a new driveshaft. WTF Yamaha?


Curious - what did you have your BOP wedge torqued to?
MS
 
Thanks for the heads up ,my XF 9000 going in for lower drive shaft refurbishment,with anti rotation pin in shaft,and a new upgraded slotted inner race on. NACHI Bearing.Less than $200 at Dealer.Good luck be safe


Who did the machining on your shaft to place the pin and notch the bearing?
MS
 
View attachment 156361 Took my chaincase apart and found this. Upper gear Mcmaster bushing was a little loose after 4k miles so for that I'm happy.

A link failure that looks like that is either a manufacturing defect or a piece of debris floating around in the chaincase.
 
You might want to replace the caliper anyway. I’ve noticed the brake pads wear into the soft aluminum caliper, this causes the pistons in the caliper to side load and scores the bore pretty bad after some time, around 7k miles.
I ground the edge of the new pads down and made a stainless steel wear plate that’s inserted where the pad rubs on the caliper. Mine was so worn the pins were bending.
 
You might want to replace the caliper anyway. I’ve noticed the brake pads wear into the soft aluminum caliper, this causes the pistons in the caliper to side load and scores the bore pretty bad after some time, around 7k miles.
I ground the edge of the new pads down and made a stainless steel wear plate that’s inserted where the pad rubs on the caliper. Mine was so worn the pins were bending.
How did you make the wear plate secure? That grooving really bugs me!
 


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