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Cold starting

We already have a voltage regulator. It can only provide equal or less than the voltage that is provided to it. Same with this one. If there is a big voltage drop at startup it cannot makeup the difference. That is why many are using a Capacitor. It can makeup the difference.
 

First thing I did after buying my sled last year was make jumper cables to keep in my tool kit. Hope I never have to use them. But, if I am in the UP and it is -35 I imagine there is a good chance they might be neccasary........
 
First thing I did after buying my sled last year was make jumper cables to keep in my tool kit. Hope I never have to use them. But, if I am in the UP and it is -35 I imagine there is a good chance they might be neccasary........
Bring a heat gun. Only way to get these things started colder than this.



Actually -10f was the start/no start cut off on my 2014 XF7000ltd. LTX-SE in Arctic clothing.
Replacing relays, with -40f ones, did nothing. Only heat would get it to start.
 
So if this is a voltage problem I wonder if I clipped on a 14.4v LiPo battery from my RC car bump box before I started the sled? It would keep the voltage higher.
 
Sometimes it appears to be voltage related. My buddy had a then new 2012 vector that would not start at 0 degrees. Put jumper cables on it and it fired right up..
On hear I see examples of them needing heat. One guy mentioned a hot washcloth over the relays a couple times warmed them enough to get him going. Another option mentioned is carrying the glove warmer inserts to possibly warm the electronics up???
We can only carry so many items with us. Most of my trips are backpack trips = very limited storage options....
 
More than likely its a multitude of potential issues causing some to be worse than others. Off top of my head Throttlebody sync,Valve adjustment,ECU Programming,Battery Voltage,Fuel,Relays,Voltage Drop,Starters themselves,Heck even belt deflection too tight can affect start up. All these are real issues people here have reported.
 
More than likely its a multitude of potential issues causing some to be worse than others. Off top of my head Throttlebody sync,Valve adjustment,ECU Programming,Battery Voltage,Fuel,Relays,Voltage Drop,Starters themselves,Heck even belt deflection too tight can affect start up. All these are real issues people here have reported.
It's mostly voltage mine does it only when it's really cold. Canada cold. When I boost it off my running truck it then starts right up. Truck is putting out 14.3v. the machine cranks faster like it's warmer out. Once you have it happen it's pretty obvious. It's cranking just a bit slower and it seems the whole sled is not connected. Next winter I am going to pull a sparkplug when it does it and see if there is spark. I bet there is none.
 
We already have a voltage regulator. It can only provide equal or less than the voltage that is provided to it. Same with this one. If there is a big voltage drop at startup it cannot makeup the difference. That is why many are using a Capacitor. It can makeup the difference.
Sorry Cannondale27 I disagree. You need to read the specs on that Pololu 12v device I posted a link to.... It will produce 12V constant when your battery voltage drops below 12v while cranking. That's the whole point of it. We need to keep the ECU at 12v while cranking, and during cranking the battery voltage can drop well below 12v. This device will produce 12v on the output with as little as 3v at the battery! It's more than a simple regulator, it will step up or down as necessary, and produce 12v to the ECU without having to connect additional external batteries or whatever.
 
Sorry Cannondale27 I disagree. You need to read the specs on that Pololu 12v device I posted a link to.... It will produce 12V constant when your battery voltage drops below 12v while cranking. That's the whole point of it. We need to keep the ECU at 12v while cranking, and during cranking the battery voltage can drop well below 12v. This device will produce 12v on the output with as little as 3v at the battery! It's more than a simple regulator, it will step up or down as necessary, and produce 12v to the ECU without having to connect additional external batteries or whatever.
Wow if that’s true that would indeed work well. My mistake. So how are they getting 12 v from 3 v? Capacitor?
 
^^ It must use something like a transformer. In order to turn a lower voltage into 12, there is a trade off. So, the amperage will drop on the output side as the voltage goes up.....

At -least, that is how I understand it??
 
Another thing to take note of. The unit we are talking about can operate up to 2 amps. So, does anyone know how many amps the ecm needs etc....??
 
Wow if that’s true that would indeed work well. My mistake. So how are they getting 12 v from 3 v? Capacitor?
A combination of a capacitor, an inductor, a transistor, and a diode (at least the simplest version. There is likely much more to this device, but in simple terms that's how you do it.) See this video for a simple explanation:
 
A combination of a capacitor, an inductor, a transistor, and a diode (at least the simplest version. There is likely much more to this device, but in simple terms that's how you do it.) See this video for a simple explanation:
That video helps explain it, but how big is this popolu 12V device? I know there was another thread on TY about capacitors, but if the product is too large or complicated to wire into the system it’s not going to help us. There are lots of wonderful products out there but if we can’t make them work on our sleds..... I’m going to google this thing now. It would be awesome if this thing could work for us. GR8BBQ, can you post the link you talked about earlier?
 
I don’t know if this is exactly what GR8BBQ was talking about but if it is, it’s vsry small and lightweight.
 


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