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Yes, you would see this on the old yammies when the set screws werent tightened. I think green locktite would be the quickest solution here
Soldier'spapa
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I almost feel like I want to locktite it before I hit the snow for the first time....
I do NOT recommend Loctite. I did that and it was a bugger to remove later. Small sharp punch. Put a block of wood under shaft to support it and put 8 small peen marks equal distance around shaft. Then fit bearing. Light tap with plastic hammer is perfect. Any tighter sand or file the peens down a hair. This works and along with regular maintainence of the bearing no more issues.
STAIN
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I just did a quick check on collar bearings. I cant see anything with a 45mm shaft that isn't at least 85mm in diameter........
I think I like Cannondales recommendation the best for now.
I think I like Cannondales recommendation the best for now.
Here is link to the Viper thread. Shagmans sled was first and NosPro had us all looking at the carnage on ours. Good thing too.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/drive-axle-bearing-behind-disc-brake.136377/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/drive-axle-bearing-behind-disc-brake.136377/
Soldier'spapa
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I do NOT recommend Loctite. I did that and it was a bugger to remove later. Small sharp punch. Put a block of wood under shaft to support it and put 8 small peen marks equal distance around shaft. Then fit bearing. Light tap with plastic hammer is perfect. Any tighter sand or file the peens down a hair. This works and along with regular maintainence of the bearing no more issues.
Thanks! Now I have another project to add to my list....
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Thats a good idea tooI do NOT recommend Loctite. I did that and it was a bugger to remove later. Small sharp punch. Put a block of wood under shaft to support it and put 8 small peen marks equal distance around shaft. Then fit bearing. Light tap with plastic hammer is perfect. Any tighter sand or file the peens down a hair. This works and along with regular maintainence of the bearing no more issues.
KnappAttack
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2017 Sidewinder LTX-LE
There is a O-ring on the Ski Doo's between the disc and the bearing to quiet the brake disc rattle, and probably to keep the bearing from spinning on the shaft and having damage like this too, the o-ring is captured by a lip machined on the inner side of the disc. Never having seen a Cat apart in this area, would it be an option to install an O-ring both to quiet the disc and put pressure on the bearing to keep it from spinning? One could machine the brake disc to look just like Doo is doing.
That would work but would put more pressure on clip. End up with Joe LTX issue sooner. Clip ripped groove right out. More than likely from grooves in caliper from pads wearing into it. Whole brake side needs a redesign.There is a O-ring on the Ski Doo's between the disc and the bearing to quiet the brake disc rattle, and probably to keep the bearing from spinning on the shaft and having damage like this too, the o-ring is captured by a lip machined on the inner side of the disc. Never having seen a Cat apart in this area, would it be an option to install an O-ring both to quiet the disc and put pressure on the bearing to keep it from spinning? One could machine the brake disc to look just like Doo is doing.
Kevin
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So if you take the rotor off can you pick out the seal and grease the bearing?
SumpBuster
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I needle grease any bearing I can get at. No failures in decades. Worn out bearings, but zero siezures, or spins. Two friends had the speedo side bearings sieze last year on 2 delta box chassis. Neither ever greased. Bone dry and rusty. One only had 2000 miles on it. Water always comes out of my apex and vector clutch side lower bearing....I grease it a few times a winter., and when I changed the track at 6000 miles, it literally felt close to new. Very smooth and no play.So if you take the rotor off can you pick out the seal and grease the bearing?
But never had a cat, sooooo......
Kevin
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I needle grease any bearing I can get at. No failures in decades. Worn out bearings, but zero siezures, or spins. Two friends had the speedo side bearings sieze last year on 2 delta box chassis. Neither ever greased. Bone dry and rusty. One only had 2000 miles on it. Water always comes out of my apex and vector clutch side lower bearing....I grease it a few times a winter., and when I changed the track at 6000 miles, it literally felt close to new. Very smooth and no play.
But never had a cat, sooooo......
So you take the seal out or poke hole in the seal?
STAIN
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I had a thought this morning. Why cant we put a set screw from the inside out on the the driveshaft to the inner bearing race? You might need two of them 180 degrees apart. Tighten the screw from the inside of the shaft to the inner bearing race. It might be a challenge to get a Allen wrench in there but I am sure we can figure something out
SumpBuster
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I sneak the needle between the inner race and seal, at an angle, feeling the needle get in as far as I can, then cover it with pressure from my thumb to force grease inside. Sometimes you have to rotate it a little for the needle to get in. Sure, it leaves a tiny gap where it goes in, but water will get in anyway in time. Even a little grease is better than a drop of water.So you take the seal out or poke hole in the seal?
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this makes sense...so essentially tight track side loads the shaft against the bearing sleeve?
Yes
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