Front axle bearing damage

[SumpBuster]

Yes

Mines not put together yet, still in the crate, but I'm going to ask Excell (Aaron) his thoughts on this.
I always run my tracks as loose as possible, without ratcheting.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Mines not put together yet, still in the crate, but I'm going to ask Excell (Aaron) his thoughts on this.
I always run my tracks as loose as possible, without ratcheting.

I used to run loose, but run them tight now.....no issues

 

[XP123]

Why do they change things for the worse all the time? They always had bearings with a cam locking collar that you used a punch to set it tight then a they had an allen nut you tightened to hold the cam from moving. This worked great for many years without issue.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Why do they change things for the worse all the time? They always had bearings with a cam locking collar that you used a punch to set it tight then a they had an allen nut you tightened to hold the cam from moving. This worked great for many years without issue.

Difference between Cat and Yamaha

 

[XP123]

Difference between Cat and Yamaha

All the Cats I ever owned had locking collars on that bearing.

 

[SumpBuster]

I used to run loose, but run them tight now.....no issues

I'll take that advice!

 

[NOS-PRO]

All the Cats I ever owned had locking collars on that bearing.

Yes, older Cats had locking collars....the pro-cross chassis has this setup which is a Cat design.

 

[Jafo1970]

I sneak the needle between the inner race and seal, at an angle, feeling the needle get in as far as I can, then cover it with pressure from my thumb to force grease inside. Sometimes you have to rotate it a little for the needle to get in. Sure, it leaves a tiny gap where it goes in, but water will get in anyway in time. Even a little grease is better than a drop of water.

I do the same thing to all my sealed bearings everywhere and all the joints on my vehicles that don't have zerks anymore. Never had a bearing failure in over 25 years. Could never understand why more people don't do this. It's cheap and easy.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

I do the same thing to all my sealed bearings everywhere and all the joints on my vehicles that don't have zerks anymore. Never had a bearing failure in over 25 years. Could never understand why more people don't do this. It's cheap and easy.

It's easier just to pop the seal right off clean the bearing , re grease and your done.

But the axle failure that this thread is about is not a failed bearing the bearing is still perfect.

 

[SumpBuster]

I do the same thing to all my sealed bearings everywhere and all the joints on my vehicles that don't have zerks anymore. Never had a bearing failure in over 25 years. Could never understand why more people don't do this. It's cheap and easy.

I know! I even switched to the molybdenum grease, since it's hard to get off your hands, so probably sticks a little better. Or Mobil 1 synthetic...either one.
I collect idler wheels I find on the trail from fried bearings...lol!

 

[SumpBuster]

It's easier just to pop the seal right off clean the bearing , re grease and your done.

But the axle failure that this thread is about is not a failed bearing the bearing is still perfect.

I know, it's said they are not a nice press fit on the id, so they can spin....but they really shouldnt....

 

[Motorhead]

Why do they change things for the worse all the time? They always had bearings with a cam locking collar that you used a punch to set it tight then a they had an allen nut you tightened to hold the cam from moving. This worked great for many years without issue.

That was my first thought when I first heard of this problem! Why not the old style locking collar/extended race bearing that had been on many past model sleds. Too much weight probably,much like the thin casting on the chain case and covers. We do want lighter 4 strokes...

 

[STAIN]

Ok, so here is what I did to combat this problem. My sled has only 340 miles on it.. First of all my driveshaft is already out awaiting my track. I checked the bearing surface on the shaft and it looked like this.

that is AFTER cleaning with Scotch-Brite. So then I drilled a hole in the shaft, final size 7/32

I will use this set screw, 1/4x28

tapped the hole. I found it easier to insert the screw from the out side.

Test fitted my test bearing

this is the final solution

I used this tool to tighten the set screw.

It came in a small kit a purchased from my Matco dealer

I believe this will effectively lock the inner bearing race to the shaft.
Any thoughts or other input?

 

[KnappAttack]

Any thoughts or other input?

That's excellent. Just as long as it does not egg the inner race and cause some binding issues with the bearing.

I like it myself as long as you can get the allen wrench in there and tighten it up.

 

[STAIN]

I was able to get the wrench in and tighten it on the bench. We will see how it goes in chassis.
I will have to be carful not to overtighten, like you say I don't want to cause problems. A dab of blue loc-tite also.
I almost put two screws in, 180 degrees apart to even the load, but I think I will go with one.