^^^^ what about some bronze shim stock opposing the allen screw so the bearing is more centered. Wrap the shaft all the way around except where the set screw makes contact
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Nice! I like that. Way to think out of the box!I was able to get the wrench in and tighten it on the bench. We will see how it goes in chassis.
I will have to be carful not to overtighten, like you say I don't want to cause problems. A dab of blue loc-tite also.
I almost put two screws in, 180 degrees apart to even the load, but I think I will go with one.
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If bearing is that sloppy shaft is junk.^^^^ what about some bronze shim stock opposing the allen screw so the bearing is more centered
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If possible you could even place bearing then mark it through your new hole and using a diegrinder put a small dimple matching the set screw position in the race of bearing. That way you would not have to tighten the set screw at all just have it sticking into the dimple.I was able to get the wrench in and tighten it on the bench. We will see how it goes in chassis.
I will have to be carful not to overtighten, like you say I don't want to cause problems. A dab of blue loc-tite also.
I almost put two screws in, 180 degrees apart to even the load, but I think I will go with one.
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STAIN
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I could try, I do have an extra bearing.
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STAIN
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Not sure it would fit, that bearing is pretty tight.^^^^ what about some bronze shim stock opposing the allen screw so the bearing is more centered. Wrap the shaft all the way around except where the set screw makes contact
I'm talking .010" shim stock. How much gap is there once that bearing is pushed to one side?
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Another tip is clean the shaft and ID of race with Acetone before putting together. It will then get a bit of rust on it. Rust is our friend here. All we are trying to do is keep that race spinning in bearing rather than on shaft but still be removable.
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I believe it was measured at .002 in.I'm talking .010" shim stock. How much gap is there once that bearing is pushed to one side?
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With new parts. Of course that varies as does the issue.
Too bad you couldn't get the right size bearing to allow for this because the shim would take the brunt of the damage if the bearing wanted to spin again.
Another tip is clean the shaft and ID of race with Acetone before putting together. It will then get a bit of rust on it. Rust is our friend here. All we are trying to do is keep that race spinning in bearing rather than on shaft but still be removable.
or chlorine bleach....rust guaranteed..
XP123
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That is exactly what I did today. I cleaned both surfaces with acetone because I wanted to make sure there was no grease or oil that might make the bearing spin. There was a little rust on the shaft when I removed the bearing today. It still slides on and off but there is no play.Another tip is clean the shaft and ID of race with Acetone before putting together. It will then get a bit of rust on it. Rust is our friend here. All we are trying to do is keep that race spinning in bearing rather than on shaft but still be removable.
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Keep an eye on this also.
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/drive-shaft-ring-groove-gone.150374/
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/drive-shaft-ring-groove-gone.150374/
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stevewithOCD
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2006 Apex RTX
Ok, so here is what I did to combat this problem. My sled has only 340 miles on it.. First of all my driveshaft is already out awaiting my track. I checked the bearing surface on the shaft and it looked like this.![]()
that is AFTER cleaning with Scotch-Brite. So then I drilled a hole in the shaft, final size 7/32![]()
I will use this set screw, 1/4x28![]()
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tapped the hole. I found it easier to insert the screw from the out side.
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Test fitted my test bearing
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this is the final solution![]()
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I used this tool to tighten the set screw.![]()
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It came in a small kit a purchased from my Matco dealer
I believe this will effectively lock the inner bearing race to the shaft.![]()
Any thoughts or other input?
I have a question on this. Did you drill a hole all the way through or just enough for that set screw? Then you just adjusted it for friction?
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