Getting rid of the roll over valve

[deweydog]

Instead of adding a new hose, etc.... how about what the gentleman posted a year ago on this post about the leak https://ty4stroke.com/threads/oil-leak.146222/ where he pulls the hoses off each side of the rollover valve and connects with a male-to-male pipe that is clamped and wrapped ? I included 2 of his pictures. I realize this doesn't vent and you run the risk of having oil flow on a rollover. but as someone mentioned here, if the engine keeps running on a rollover, the valve doesn't do anything anyway. I had the oil dumping out on my running board last year and found that post and dealer fixed and gave me spare rollover valve I keep with me. But I also have the parts this gentleman used to bypass with me just in case I need to do that. would be a simple on trail fix. in my case, my sidewinder wouldn't go past half throttle without hesitating and bucking. on a stop, noticed oil on right running board and figured that wasn't good but didn't know if was chaincase or oil. got it to a gas station and oil read low so put some light dino oil in, figuring regular oil better than no oil. after sled warmed up, problem went away for next 2 days of riding.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Mike wanted to keep oil out of turbo altogether.

Ive got lots of plumbing here, so Im leaning toward a pex tee, off the hose. Which would do same as Mikes but leaves all the rest alone, and will just vent out since the valve would then just remain closed always.

Just gotta see if I got all the stuff here, but I think I do.

 

[GlennM]

Insulate it and it won't freeze up

 

[Soldier'spapa]

I'm thinking there may be additional benefit beyond keeping the slight oil mist out of the intake tract. There is water vapor in the blow-by dumped into the intake as well. Could it be that sensors relying on vacuum may be subject to blockage from ice forming in the small tubing routed to them? If yes, then keeping all of the blow-by out of the intake making it as dry as it was when manufactured would be best. It may turn out that this rollover valve is leading to several performance issues...

 

[Never Satisfied]

I pulled mine all the way apart like Mike did and no doubt over 350 miles there is slime all the way to the intake tube. Not good IMHO. Coating the inter cooler with oil reduces effectiveness if it makes it that far. I plan to use the tube that goes from the valve to the intake as my vent. It has a nice 180 degree bent to route it down and out. Not quite long enough so I will have to add on. I may reduce it down to 3/8” from 5/8” so it takes up less room in the toe hold area.

 

[fatchance]

I pulled mine all the way apart like Mike did and no doubt over 350 miles there is slime all the way to the intake tube. Not good IMHO. Coating the inter cooler with oil reduces effectiveness if it makes it that far. I plan to use the tube that goes from the valve to the intake as my vent. It has a nice 180 degree bent to route it down and out. Not quite long enough so I will have to add on. I may reduce it down to 3/8” from 5/8” so it takes up less room in the toe hold area.

I wouldn't reduce that on the down side. Just asking for moisture to freeze and back up on the fitting making for a potential blockage.

 

[jetpilot785]

So if it goes back into the valve cover, wouldnt the pressure just circulate as pistons go up/down?

Your thinking it builds up without an outlet somewhere correct?

Biggest reason is Dry Sump vs Wet Sump. I have had numerous yamaha watercraft with superchargers and turbos and they used to have a catch can on earlier designs and route was from the case to the catch can and then to the intake track. Then in 2012 they changed the design and eliminated the catch can and routed it to the head cover and added a second line to the same intake fitting. The reason they can get away with that on the pwc is the 1.8l engine they use is a wet sump and the head is designed for the oil to drain back into the sump in the event of a capsize. The engines the sleds use are a dry sump and pump whats needed into the block for the rotating assemblies and then returns to the oil tank. This type of design cannot support oil being dump into the head cover in the event of a roll over and thats why they don't vent to the head cover and use the check valve in the intake track. It uses vacuum to draw the pressure out of the tank and keep the seal intact.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I just finished mine....Used some plumbing items I had here already, and a rubber fuel line.

I just dont want any issues with leaking oil tank seal in these extreme temps...Plenty of vapors coming out this hose as I just tested it. Mine is tad different then Mikes as I left all the stock stuff in place, but same idea and no more pressure in tank.

Thanks Mike for the good imagination on this one, Nice work.

Dan

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I pulled mine all the way apart like Mike did and no doubt over 350 miles there is slime all the way to the intake tube. Not good IMHO. Coating the inter cooler with oil reduces effectiveness if it makes it that far. I plan to use the tube that goes from the valve to the intake as my vent. It has a nice 180 degree bent to route it down and out. Not quite long enough so I will have to add on. I may reduce it down to 3/8” from 5/8” so it takes up less room in the toe hold area.

My hose from tank to valve had lots of ice in it....pretty crazy when I saw that. And my valve looked to have ice in it too as I could see inside it.

Made me decide to do something now, as I want to ride and its minus 25 here, sure works great.

Dan

 

[Soldier'spapa]

Nice work Dan! I am going to follow Mikes design though. Your system has vacuum from the turbo inlet potentially drawing a small amount of oil and water vapor through the RO valve into the intake. I think your design will eliminate most of the vapor but unfortunatly not all.

Edit: As I wrote this I thought it would be good if anyone could confirm vacuum on the turbo side of the RO valve? I don't have my sled available. I suspect there is vacuum on one side of the valve and pressure on the other...

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Nice work Dan! I am going to follow Mikes design though. Your system has vacuum from the turbo inlet potentially drawing a small amount of oil and water vapor through the RO valve into the intake. I think your design will eliminate most of the vapor but unfortunatly not all.

Oh im not worried about that at all....Cant see that happening, and if it does it sure is not much, and FAR FAR FAR less then stock setup.

My goal was to stop the seal in the oil tank from blowing out due to the freezing valve. And mine looked to be really iced up, and just dont need to ruin a ride tomorrow!

I can plug off the other part to intake another time, was abit nippy to be working on her today at minus 24 for the HI! ..lol

 

[GlennM]

This guy used foiled insulation to protect the ROV from freezing.

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk

 

[ROCKERDAN]

This guy used foiled insulation to protect the ROV from freezing.

Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk

Im not certain in extreme temps, if insulation will do it. The vapors inside the tube before the oil gets hot can freeze inside, insulating it wont necessarily help if its freezing from the inside.

Im sure these extreme temps are going to push many limits of what normally is fine. I dont think anyone even had this issue last season. And after Sat it will be milder and likely wont even need these fixes..lol

 

[**sj**]

Im not certain in extreme temps, if insulation will do it. The vapors inside the tube before the oil gets hot can freeze inside, insulating it wont necessarily help if its freezing from the inside.

Im sure these extreme temps are going to push many limits of what normally is fine. I dont think anyone even had this issue last season. And after Sat it will be milder and likely wont even need these fixes..lol

I agree with dan..

-10 f in the U.P. last couple days...any moisture inside thew valve will freeze ....insulation only would help retain heat if it remained present...

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Im not positive NO oil will leak out if rolled but it should hold much of it in. I guess it depends how its rolled, and if its on its side at certain angle I suppose oil can get out. But for now I just want to eliminate the worry of that pressure building up upon a frozen valve. Hopefully yam will bring a real fix soon then.