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Getting rid of the roll over valve

Yes, what they said. we know you have our backs Cannondale. :Rockon:This simple loop design can be replaced with the original RO valve on the days with more normal temps. I would rather take my chances without the valve and keep my skis on the ground, than run the risk of a blown out seal on an extremely cold day.
I do and I think you all understand how serious this could be. Some really big name well respected names doing this mod. This will tend to push others who may not understand the risks into doing it also. Maybe even the wrong way. Just remember for every one sled that has had a issue I would bet that 10 havent. I rode with two that had no issues last weekend at -16f. Weigh the options is all I ask.
 

From what I gather the air, the vapour, and the blow bye is warm, not at instal start up (possibly) but as the engine warms at least anyways.
So would this not rid of any ice build up in the hoses and or roll over valve ?

Is it possible in the cases where oil has leaked the roll over valves are defective or became defective and not releasing pressure ?

If in fact the roll over valve is freezing shut from moisture collecting in it, would a heating pad like for example a handle bar grip heater be effective enough to thaw it out ?

I'm thinking of rigging up a separate switch off the accessory port, or off the battery and wrapping it around the valve with insulation tape. Turn it on a few minutes before start up on these fridged days, or when parked overnight. I'm sure a helmet visor wiring kit (which most of us have kicking around) will work, just need to find a heating pad with an rca adapter like the visor plugs into.
I think this will work, NO ?
Also plug the intake duct on the hood that is directly in front of the roll over valve. The air entering that hole at 100mph must be freezing cold.

This mod is more for the guys and gals that are concerned with bypassing the roll over valve completely and are concerned with rolling sled over etc etc.
 
Dan, if you put a shut off valve in the vent line down by your foot you could just shut the valve off if you didn’t want to vent or stop a leak in a roll over couldn’t you?
 
Lets just hope YAM brings the fix soon! Then we can all go back to talking about whos tune is faster and whos blows up..haha

No dont start guys!:o|:whine::whine::whine:

lol
Ya but... how do we know they even know about this!
Last winter, no one seemed to have this issue, why now?
I rode in very cold temps last winter and this winter also, no issues.
Not gonna touch it!


Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk
 
question to mike...I like the idea and simplicity..and of course we all agree there's a benefit from keeping the oil mist our of the intake tract etc...

thinking out loud here....pressure at the end of the tube is always positive or is there ever vacuum? so as when running deep powder there is never a chance it could suck in or get plugged?

dan...like your version also....wondering why you decided not go 3/4" out also>?


No, never at any point is there suction on the hose with the machine running, nothing but flow outward. Plug the hole on the end of the hose with your finger and you can see how quickly it builds pressure! It just will never have anything blowing up into the hose ever.

What most fail to here me saying here is, I've run this mod for many thousands of miles on my turbo 1200 with great success. Trial use, deep snow use and everything in between. It can never suck anything in and up the hose at all, only blows out hot vapor all the time the engine is running. The 1200 and this Yamaha run the same basic dry sump systems.

I've never had it plug of freeze on me with the Doo, and this Yamaha is in more heat than the Doo was, so I have no worry about that whatsoever. Start the machine in the morning and look down below the running board, if there is vapor coming out then, its flowing and only going to warm up as the day goes along. Its blowing out vapor out of about 200-230 degree oil tank, depending on how long you've run the engine and warmed the oil. Oil temps with be much higher than water temps remember.


Can anyone confirm vacuum on the turbo side of the valve?

There is going to be some vacuum when running full throttle and the turbo is spooling high, but not much if you have a free flowing air filter.
 
If that vent line were closed wouldn’t it be the same as it was stock?
 
Ya but... how do we know they even know about this!
Last winter, no one seemed to have this issue, why now?
I rode in very cold temps last winter and this winter also, no issues.
Not gonna touch it!


Sent from my SM-T705W using Tapatalk
Last winter was super mild just about all over....this yr is extreme, and has been quite long lived so far.
 
Dan, if you put a shut off valve in the vent line down by your foot you could just shut the valve off if you didn’t want to vent or stop a leak in a roll over couldn’t you?
Sure could....but not so sure you could turn it off fast enough on roll over. So not sure id bother.
I dont see why not with my setup.
If that vent line were closed wouldn’t it be the same as it was stock?
Exactly true, no different then stock.
Stock it vents to the air box. If you closed it that would be the same as the valve sticking. Which blows the seal.
On my setup you can certainly block off bottom tube, and then its just like stock design. It will work as long as stock ROV is not froze or sticking.

Dan
 
If that vent line were closed wouldn’t it be the same as it was stock?
YES if you put the shut off valve on hose that goes to the running board off the T. Then it will return to stock form because Dan never removed anything with his mad. All he did was add a T and a 3/8 hose from the T down to the running board. By putting in a shut off on the 3/8 line it will once again work like stock and go through the rollover valve and to the intake.
 
I’m thinking of running Dan’s set up with a shut off valve. If it’s real cold I would open the valve and if it’s warmer I’m not afraid of the valve freezing up it would just close the shut off valve
 
I’m thinking of running Dan’s set up with a shut off valve. If it’s real cold I would open the valve and if it’s warmer I’m not afraid of the valve freezing up it would just close the shut off valve
That sounds logical....But were some valves also sticking over time too? I guess I just like not worrying bout the damn seal blowing out.lol
 


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