grizztracks
Tech Advisor
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KHEXX said:Grizz...how did they hold up through last season...still haven't pulled the plug, and debating about this kit...
No problems at all after 2000+ miles. I started with the covers still on the bulbs but after a couple rides removed them which helped a lot. My only complaint is with the high/low beam differential. I ended up setting my high beams to maximize my visibility on the trails but now my low beams are to low. I believe it's a problem with the headlight assembly and not the bulbs. I've heard that if you shim the bulb back there's less of a differential. I may look at the HID bulbs to see if there's a way to decrease how much they displace between high and low.
I'll be installing a Sledstart HID kit in a Nytro this weekend and will be doing a comparison.
KHEXX
Pro
Wonder if the kit from sledstart has the same issue?
KHEXX
Pro
grizztracks said:KHEXX said:Grizz...how did they hold up through last season...still haven't pulled the plug, and debating about this kit...
No problems at all after 2000+ miles. I started with the covers still on the bulbs but after a couple rides removed them which helped a lot. My only complaint is with the high/low beam differential. I ended up setting my high beams to maximize my visibility on the trails but now my low beams are to low. I believe it's a problem with the headlight assembly and not the bulbs. I've heard that if you shim the bulb back there's less of a differential. I may look at the HID bulbs to see if there's a way to decrease how much they displace between high and low.
I'll be installing a Sledstart HID kit in a Nytro this weekend and will be doing a comparison.
Please let me know what you find out!!! Thanks GRIZZ
Mooseman
I'm not all knowing. Post your question in forum.
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I have a no-name sleazebay kit in mine and it still had the same problem between lo and hi beam, same as the halogens. It's a problem with the lens/reflectors in the assembly. Since these HIDs change the light location mechanically, there should be a some sort of adjustment in there. I might open mine up just to see (not today though )
grizztracks
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I installed The SledStart HID kit in a Nytro for a friend and did a comparison between it and the DDM Tuning kit. The SledStart has what looks like a better control relay and the two ballast have mounting tabs unlike the DDM ballast. both kits have similar bulbs but the DDM bulbs are a little easier to install. Because the DDM kits are designed for automotive the wiring harness is longer than needed but all the connections are identical to SledStart. Both are basically plug and play. The SledStart harness for the Nytro was a little to short which limited where the ballasts and relay could be mounted. I ended up mounting the ballasts to the inside of the radiator shroud and the relay to the back side of the gauge pod. It all worked out OK but I would have preferred moving the ballast outside of the radiator so they didn't restrict air flow to the radiator. Both kits when installed with the anti-glare shields have a narrow beam which can be correct by removing the shields. I don't think either company recommends removing the shields but with the Yamaha headlight housing design I think it's necessary. When comparing the two HID kit's overall illumination both seem to be equally as good (4300 vs 4500 bulbs) and both have the same problem with high/low beam differential. I've had no problems with the DDM tuning kit but the true test for both kits will be time.
KHEXX
Pro
grizztracks said:I installed The SledStart HID kit in a Nytro for a friend and did a comparison between it and the DDM Tuning kit. The SledStart has what looks like a better control relay and the two ballast have mounting tabs unlike the DDM ballast. both kits have similar bulbs but the DDM bulbs are a little easier to install. Because the DDM kits are designed for automotive the wiring harness is longer than needed but all the connections are identical to SledStart. Both are basically plug and play. The SledStart harness for the Nytro was a little to short which limited where the ballasts and relay could be mounted. I ended up mounting the ballasts to the inside of the radiator shroud and the relay to the back side of the gauge pod. It all worked out OK but I would have preferred moving the ballast outside of the radiator so they didn't restrict air flow to the radiator. Both kits when installed with the anti-glare shields have a narrow beam which can be correct by removing the shields. I don't think either company recommends removing the shields but with the Yamaha headlight housing design I think it's necessary. When comparing the two HID kit's overall illumination both seem to be equally as good (4300 vs 4500 bulbs) and both have the same problem with high/low beam differential. I've had no problems with the DDM tuning kit but the true test for both kits will be time.
When you say they have a problem with the high/low beam differntial, is it that the high beams cast the light too far out and not enough in front of you, and the low beams cast the light too close (almost aimed down)?
grizztracks
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If you adjust the headlight housing for the low beam your high beam points to high and if you adjust for the high beam the low beam points to low. The HID bulbs have an electromagnet that when energizes moves the bulb back in the housing for high beam. I'm not sure if it's possible but if the amount of displacement could be reduced by maybe shimming the bulbs electromagnet the problem could be corrected. If you remove the anti-glare shields the HID beams widen so that you can see off to the sides of the trail better but I think with them removed the beam differential becomes worse. The shields have two parts, a noise cone and bottom shield. I removed the noise cone and reinstalled the bottom bulb shields and found that that helped somewhat with the differential but I think they could be improved further. I'm going to try a couple of shield modifications and maybe later open one of the bulbs to see if shimming is possible. If your thinking about installing HID's remember even with the high/low beam issue they are an improvement over the OEM bulbs.
Jeffz
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2007 Phazer "RTX"
I decided to adjust my DDM kit so the high beam is pointed correctly for maximum visibility. I figured if the only time I switch my low beam on, is when I meet others on the trail, since I don't need the extra light then. Makes me feel bad when I meet others on the trail because they're so bright. Putting HID's on a sled has been the best mod I've ever done. For as much night-riding as I do, there is nothing better than being able to see that much farther.
I put DDM hid lights on my nytro with boost and RB3 controler.
My first ride with them was in the mountians and I had a miss in my engine at higher speeds. Thinking I had a fuel problem I remapped both my tunes with no change in the miss. I then thought that I had a connection with water in it and bought a blow dryer to dry everything out. The third day I went out and tried it out and still had a miss. I then figured the only thing that it could be was the lights. I pulled the fuse and.............. PRESTO!!!!!!!!!!!! Runs like a charm!!! WHY???? HID lights take more power to start up then drop power consumption. Is it too much power draw with extra fuel pump, extra oil pump, and intercooler fan????? Or is it EMI???? Nice trip of fuckary
My first ride with them was in the mountians and I had a miss in my engine at higher speeds. Thinking I had a fuel problem I remapped both my tunes with no change in the miss. I then thought that I had a connection with water in it and bought a blow dryer to dry everything out. The third day I went out and tried it out and still had a miss. I then figured the only thing that it could be was the lights. I pulled the fuse and.............. PRESTO!!!!!!!!!!!! Runs like a charm!!! WHY???? HID lights take more power to start up then drop power consumption. Is it too much power draw with extra fuel pump, extra oil pump, and intercooler fan????? Or is it EMI???? Nice trip of fuckary
KHEXX
Pro
Jeffz said:I decided to adjust my DDM kit so the high beam is pointed correctly for maximum visibility. I figured if the only time I switch my low beam on, is when I meet others on the trail, since I don't need the extra light then. Makes me feel bad when I meet others on the trail because they're so bright. Putting HID's on a sled has been the best mod I've ever done. For as much night-riding as I do, there is nothing better than being able to see that much farther.
That must be hellish if your riding in any kind of snowfall.....
actionjack
TY 4 Stroke God
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I am installing a DDM kit on an Attak. My bulbs look different than those on your photo album. There is a reflector plate under the bulb. Should this stay on or come off?
The wiring truly is easy other than planning their location and security. I am mounting my ballasts with a plastic piece similar to Betheviper's aluminum plate mount.
The wiring truly is easy other than planning their location and security. I am mounting my ballasts with a plastic piece similar to Betheviper's aluminum plate mount.
BETHEVIPER
Lifetime Member
Have another light on the way and am going to maybe build a projector kit. the projector might cure the hi/lo issue I have.
actionjack
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Any word on the reflector plate under the bulb?
I guess i can just try it and see what it looks like.
I guess i can just try it and see what it looks like.
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
BETHEVIPER said:Have another light on the way and am going to maybe build a projector kit. the projector might cure the hi/lo issue I have.
If you run projectors you hi/lo problems will be over. They are great.
Snowmobileaddict
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The gap between high and low when using halogens or hids with the reflector housing is due to the spacing of the separate filaments (one for high and one for low) in the h4 bulb, or the distance that the moving hid bulb travels when going. From high to low.
A projector eliminates that and makes lows and highs gapless
A projector eliminates that and makes lows and highs gapless
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