Kingers BOOSTED garage....

[ClutchMaster]

That’s awsome! Subscribed!
cant wait

 

[zx4ever]

Man I think you should just go to phase 2 now save yourself a lot of time doing things twice. Trust me my nytro had about 4 phases and 10 years later I’m finally finished it, just in time to start my yamalaris. Build it and break in (or break) the winder motor until the apex is done. Does this sled have a name?

 

[kinger]

I have a few ideas for a name but need phase 2 first LOL, until then I may ride it a year as "big papa" with the tall windy and everything LOL. I hear ya I would love to do it at once but it involves a complete chassis re-design, I think it would be prudent to make sure the twin charge system works as designed, try out the YRSS with no sway bar, and dial in the Motec. Ideally I get it running like a swiss watch and get 2000+ trouble free miles, then I will feel confident to put the time and cash into the chassis to make my dream sled.

 

[kinger]

Unrelated but my first attempt at a vid with a old gopro and my summer toy. Hoping to film more of my sled builds so been practicing this summer. Give me any feedback as long as its nice, I'm a sensitive flower

 

[zx4ever]

Looks good for a (car ) video. I’m sure you will be a pro at it by the time the sled is ready.

 

[kinger]

Well for the first time I will be posting some garage mods on the bastard sidewinder. If you read this:
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/sidewinder-motor-fixed-sled-blacklisted-your-opinions-needed.161363/

Then you will know I am keeping the sled (regretfully) and taking matters into my own hands to make this a reliable backup. While the Ape will serve as bada**, adreneline rush, crazy mod sled duties. This one just needs to run but still a little more juice then stock.

Step 1 - Going to a 250hp reflash from PEFI down from 280. This one is hard to swallow but with the BTX propensity to heat up the 3lbs less of boost, less timing will only help reliability and reduce heat. - DONE Thanks @ulmerracing!!
Step 2- Install BOP IC guard, keep that dang IC free of snow and working as it should will only help intake temps and reliability.
Step 3 - Install some Mo Flow vents on panels. Just getting some heat out, especially on clutch side.
Step 4 - ROV delete, no need for oil in my air intake, or the ROV freezing causing a oil tank leak - Bonus its darn near free $$
Step 5 - Apex Radiator/fan install - Probably not needed on a 250 flash but I want to extend idle times when trail side and I have one laying around.

Ok Lets get started at #2 since #1 was easy peasy

I bought a BOP guard a year or so ago and was only going to install when the sled was reliable, I had in my head I didn't want to modify the sled a ton. Well let the mods begin!

Here is the Gen 1 installed:

I thought I would love the minimalist look with no nose cone, but I didn't. Just look too unfinished. So I then considered just using the stock set up without the ice catching rails in the front like this:

If you don't want to spend ANY money do this, I think it looks great and will only help. Unfortunately there is still a ledge and the honeycomb is a magnet for snow and ice buildup. So I tried to re-create a gen 2 like BOP IC guard but of course not spending any money on this sled (I still hate you SW you get no money from me until better behavior is demonstrated)

So I cut the factory shroud with a sharp new razor blade and some patience, this is a finished edge so take your time:

So I needed to bend the pretty Orange BOP IC guard to get out past the factory snow catching lip. My thought was the snow has nothing to sit on now. Here is my own jig with plentiful; painters tape to protect the finish.

Apply a little belly pressure...that means use my 230lb belly and bend it with my raw man hands.

Now notch out the BOP designed tab to allow the factory skid plate bolt to be used:

Installed on the sled. The corners are not great but I think once on snow only I will notice. Should be very effective at keeping the dang intake temps under 100....your welcome you needy bastard.

Lastly I bought some tailgate weather stripping and will install that around the bottom edge to seal out the edges from incoming snow. I figure its best to let air in only to minimize icing. Fingers crossed it works!

 

[kinger]

Roll over delete done. Look at that goo ready to go into the intake.

Then I went on to the mo flow vents.

Little heat and the warning stickers come right off!

Rest is self explanatory. I was worried about the orange but it turned out good.

 

[rla1]

Roll over delete done. Look at that goo ready to go into the intake.

View attachment 157674

View attachment 157675

View attachment 157676

Then I went on to the mo flow vents.

View attachment 157677

Little heat and the warning stickers come right off!
View attachment 157678

Rest is self explanatory. I was worried about the orange but it turned out good.
View attachment 157679 View attachment 157680 View attachment 157681 View attachment 157682 View attachment 157683

 

[rla1]

It is also good idea to empty out your intercooler and wash it out if you have not done so already,you would not beleave how much oily goo gets in there.

 

[kinger]

Got the tailgate strip on the IC guard. Sealed it up perfectly!

 

[kinger]

Front mo flow vents. Should help the clutches a lot!

Forgot I had the belly guard. So that needed to be vented:

Then the plastic:

Final look inside and out

Remember the black has frogskin on it to keep water out of clutches:

The other side right by hot muffler :

 

[kinger]

Placeholder for Rad install...

 

[kinger]

Moving on to Apex, my built engine showed up! I thought this was a cool peek at the forged piston through the spark plug hole!

Some clever genius from the Ulmer shop oil drainback to clutch side vs Mag for more gravity pull to help oil drain back. Muay grande!

 

[zx4ever]

Now your talking, get that ape happening. Inventive drain back

 

[kinger]

Holy heck! After bleeding air out of coolant and adding 3 cups the winder worked! 10 miles this is a milestone!! lol