Need Help on This One - Primary

[4strokes]

seal is right, that's what lead me to slime. pumping in tires all day anyway. hose into end of crank, few pump. work air out with long screwdriver. get puller started and drive it home .easy clean up. club car has a puller, that's like 1/4 on the end. pretzeled many until I just finally did this right off the bat. goes in so hard, can hardly tell when and if it bottoms. the rare occasion I feel the need to stop, seconds with a benzomatic will pop it. flywheels can be just as tough, and you cant hydrauliclly remove those. also like to add, I never ever ever remove something that doesn't need to be. asking for trouble and way better off not disturbed. I rebuild clutches without removing them and have always noticed that 2 weights wear one direction and one the other. I always thought it was engine harmonics and removing clutch would randomly change that, for better or worse... possibly why some rattle more than others

 

[ClutchMaster]

Did you use the gun in short bursts or a constant hit? Or does it matter.
I notice none of the stories involve heating it up. The hydraulic force is enough on its own?
MS

Sevey, did you ever get you clutch off?

 

[Sevey]

Tried filling with grease
Tried filling with oil
Heat from heat gun
Heat from propane torch
Bent 3 pullers.

No I haven't got it off, but I haven't worked on it lately. Weather is cold here and been busy with other things.

Going to try using more heat from a torch, that's the last 'hail mary', then I think I am going to give up.
Never seen such a thing.
MS

 

[ClutchMaster]

Try filling it with gear lube and use thread tape on the threads. Run it in as fast as possible with a impact gun and keep hammering when it hits bottom. If that don’t work nothing will.

 

[ClutchMaster]

You only need a couple turns in then use the impact. Make sure the sled is totally on its side not only half tipped over.

 

[YukonMP]

Tried filling with grease
Tried filling with oil
Heat from heat gun
Heat from propane torch
Bent 3 pullers.

No I haven't got it off, but I haven't worked on it lately. Weather is cold here and been busy with other things.

Going to try using more heat from a torch, that's the last 'hail mary', then I think I am going to give up.
Never seen such a thing.
MS

That just leaves an exorcism.

Seriously, that really sucks and I hope the dang thing drops off next time you touch it. The good news is that you are tied with Cannondale for most frustrating problem of the season. I'm referring of course to his electrical issues.

 

[ClutchMaster]

You could of course try a little heat while using the impact, but this would require a beer guzzling buddy to help you.

 

[74Nitro]

This method for me(hydraulic lock) has never failed to remove a clutch. I've done it many, many times. Never had to use heat.

 

[4strokes]

did one yesterday with slime, never even bottomed the puller. have to do a clubcar today. very thin puller. would never work without hydraulic. but the best method is not to pull it if it doesn't need it

 

[Sevey]

Try filling it with gear lube and use thread tape on the threads. Run it in as fast as possible with a impact gun and keep hammering when it hits bottom. If that don’t work nothing will.

Used thread tape with both oil and grease.

Problem is, when you keep hammering the gun, the pullers keep bending and rubbing against the threads (they leave marks on the end of the puller when removed). I am concerned with damaging them, cause then I wont be able to get the bolt back in.

As the previous comment, going to have to get help by having someone hold the torch while I hit it with the gun.
MS

 

[4strokes]

Used thread tape with both oil and grease.

Problem is, when you keep hammering the gun, the pullers keep bending and rubbing against the threads (they leave marks on the end of the puller when removed). I am concerned with damaging them, cause then I wont be able to get the bolt back in.

As the previous comment, going to have to get help by having someone hold the torch while I hit it with the gun.
MS

I bet if you used grease first, it has air pockets. I would dump gas in it and blow it out a few times and start over. I believe oil, tape would work, but I found slime seals itself. It allows you to start the threads, then drive home with impact

 

[Sevey]

Conclusion - big thank you to all the chipped in with their comments.

After using a hotter torch and bending another puller (using grease and oil and thread tape) - with no luck - I was about to give up....
So with nothing to lose I cut the end off the puller repacked it with grease and oil and sent the puller in with the impact - sure enough POP! Come off like a bullet.

There was no doubt it was stubborn but it was one of those 'couldn't see the forest for the trees' situations. I was told by a number of guys to keep using the puller by having it bottom out as well with grease/oil. I would revamp that statement if I were to advise anyone - forget about having the puller bottom - go right for the hydraulic lock.

There was a ring of corrosion and pitted metal on both the shaft and inside of clutch. That must be what had it seized on there. After polishing both clutch and shaft the ring is super evident and is not going anywhere, its quite deep. Going to re install using thin coat of grease.

Also, for those that like to wrap the puller head with a hammer to shock the clutch loose - not sure I am in favour of that. Once the clutch was off, you could see the bearing (holding the stub shaft) has moved back at least 1/16 in the housing. So that has to come apart and be re-pressed together. More fun. The bearing doesn't feel is smooth as I would like so it may have to be entirely replaced. Will see once its out.

Thanks again for the help guys.
MS

 

[Viper_Dave]

Glad you got it! Aren't snowmobiles FUN!!@@!!

 

[STAIN]

. Going to re install using thin coat of grease.

I would not do that.

 

[74Nitro]

Conclusion - big thank you to all the chipped in with their comments.

After using a hotter torch and bending another puller (using grease and oil and thread tape) - with no luck - I was about to give up....
So with nothing to lose I cut the end off the puller repacked it with grease and oil and sent the puller in with the impact - sure enough POP! Come off like a bullet.

There was no doubt it was stubborn but it was one of those 'couldn't see the forest for the trees' situations. I was told by a number of guys to keep using the puller by having it bottom out as well with grease/oil. I would revamp that statement if I were to advise anyone - forget about having the puller bottom - go right for the hydraulic lock.

There was a ring of corrosion and pitted metal on both the shaft and inside of clutch. That must be what had it seized on there. After polishing both clutch and shaft the ring is super evident and is not going anywhere, its quite deep. Going to re install using thin coat of grease.

Also, for those that like to wrap the puller head with a hammer to shock the clutch loose - not sure I am in favour of that. Once the clutch was off, you could see the bearing (holding the stub shaft) has moved back at least 1/16 in the housing. So that has to come apart and be re-pressed together. More fun. The bearing doesn't feel is smooth as I would like so it may have to be entirely replaced. Will see once its out.

Thanks again for the help guys.
MS

Great Sevey. It's true that hydraulic lock has more force than the puller bottoming.
That ring you are talking about may be where the PTO slipped slightly inside the taper. I saw this sort of thing on my last Winder also.
I wouldn't use a lube when re-installing.