Newbie to Yamaha Sleds - Want to take studs out of track?

[mmcdon]

Hi,

Real excited to own my first Yamaha sled. I purchased a used 2007 Apex that came with its original track (only 3800 miles) and 192 studs. I would like to remove the studs and have figured out how to remove them with the Allen wrench and socket. My question is their a way to move the track instead of starting it up each time to inch the track forward to get to the next set of lugs. Quite new to snowmobiles in general so not real sure how to accomplish this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[THKSNOW]

Raise the rear end off the floor, loosen the track and you'll be able to roll it fairly easily. I did the same thing using a Allen T handle and a 12v impact. It takes some time but not too difficult. I've got about 2500 miles this season on the "holey" track with no issues.

 

[sgauthier]

Remove the belt and you will be able to spin the track as you go along.

 

[THKSNOW]

Remove the belt and you will be able to spin the track as you go along.

Makes sense... never thought of that. Always learning something new on TY.

 

[steiner]

Really no need to loosen the track or remove the belt to turn the track by hand unless there is an issue somewhere.

 

[Redbeard]

If you can't turn the track by hand, take the left side panel off and turn the driven pulley by hand. That method, however, won't turn the track over as fast.

Also, if you have a means to suspend the rear with a hoist, that will give you more room to work from the rear, verses a bumper stand. You could even remove the snow flap for even more clearance.

...and be careful, whatever method you choose!

 

[03RX1-ER-LE]

Hi,

Real excited to own my first Yamaha sled. I purchased a used 2007 Apex that came with its original track (only 3800 miles) and 192 studs. I would like to remove the studs and have figured out how to remove them with the Allen wrench and socket. My question is their a way to move the track instead of starting it up each time to inch the track forward to get to the next set of lugs. Quite new to snowmobiles in general so not real sure how to accomplish this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Why do you want to remove the studs? I have been snowmobiling for 40 years and never used studs until 10 years ago. After having them I will never be without them ever again. The traction when taking off, braking and stopping along with riding on icy trails is like night and day. Good studs and carbides is the single most important thing you can do for yourself. Oh and drive sober, if your new to the sport there are some bad apples out there still doing this endangering themselves and other riders.

 

[THKSNOW]

Why do you want to remove the studs? I have been snowmobiling for 40 years and never used studs until 10 years ago. After having them I will never be without them ever again. The traction when taking off, braking and stopping along with riding on icy trails is like night and day. Good studs and carbides is the single most important thing you can do for yourself. Oh and drive sober, if your new to the sport there are some bad apples out there still doing this endangering themselves and other riders.

It's all about personal preference. You're correct about icy trails etc. w/o studs but, you have to ride based on your ability and the way your sled is "equipped." I have had sleds with studs and found tracks don't last as long so I go without them and don't ride as fast. I no longer have to deal with "pull-outs," extra vibration, etc. Previous 06 Attak my son has now is approaching 24,000 on the original track... without the studs.

 

[YammyRX1]

You can buy a small lift for the back of the sled that keeps it off the ground and allows you to spin the track. Also, if you start these 4 strokes you should always let them warm up before shutting them down or your plugs will foul.

 

[sgauthier]

studs only shorten the life of the track if they pull threw, are too loose, poorly laid out pattern or if you don't have enough. JMO but i would never run without them. no matter how you prepare yourself you never know what is on a corner under the snow, going up or down a step slippery/icy hill and the worst thing that could happen in a corner is your rear end swings around and clips some poor rider going the other way injuring you or someone else. Also going across lakes is a lot safer with studs, ever hit a patch of bare ice?? no thanks i'll stick with the real studs, not the prestudded tracks either, but they are better then not having anything. just my 2 cents

 

[SumpBuster]

If you lift the back....you can get lazy like me.....get a nice comfy pad, and put a ratchet on the rear idler bolt...17mm and 19 I think....to turn it..then you don't have to get up...lol! As an aside, I've never done that..my tracks are run loose to the point of not ratcheting so they turn free by hand. No more studs for me...had a doo rip a perfectly good track last week and smash the front heat exchanger...thankfully not leaking. Another nytro has two pierce marks in the rear coolant tube, and mine had 3 gouges in the front exchanger...and these were excellent studs with the long supporting nuts and loctited...you don't put a supercharger on a mustang without some burnouts and you don't ride high performance sleds without some ripping and tearing full throttle playtime...sometimes there's bad stuff under the snow on the cow path trails....my other issue....I hate ice...if the trails are icy, it's no fun for me...occasional icy corners are fun....but mostly icy or lakes? I stay home and take a nap...sucky riding is no fun anymore.

 

[Deeppow16]

View attachment 116796 View attachment 116795 If you lift the back....you can get lazy like me.....get a nice comfy pad, and put a ratchet on the rear idler bolt...17mm and 19 I think....to turn it..then you don't have to get up...lol! As an aside, I've never done that..my tracks are run loose to the point of not ratcheting so they turn free by hand. No more studs for me...had a doo rip a perfectly good track last week and smash the front heat exchanger...thankfully not leaking. Another nytro has two pierce marks in the rear coolant tube, and mine had 3 gouges in the front exchanger...and these were excellent studs with the long supporting nuts and loctited...you don't put a supercharger on a mustang without some burnouts and you don't ride high performance sleds without some ripping and tearing full throttle playtime...sometimes there's bad stuff under the snow on the cow path trails....my other issue....I hate ice...if the trails are icy, it's no fun for me...occasional icy corners are fun....but mostly icy or lakes? I stay home and take a nap...sucky riding is no fun anymore.

Same thing happened to me on my Polaris. I heard some really bad thumping and looked down and was now happy. Had no choice but to replace the track and I will never run studs again because of that. My sled only had 1500 miles on it so I was not happy about replacing the track. After that I put on another 6000 miles on the sled before I sold it and the track looks brand new.

 

[ranger1]

I removed the studs from a 2007 Apex RTX I bought used a few years back. They didn't take long to remove & the track remained reliable. I have been sledding for about 35 years now & personaly never had any kind of "safety" issues with never running studs. It would be the same as running a car without studs, drive accordingly. Studs add lots of extra weight to the track which unfortunately robs you of top speed. Studs can also cause damage & wear. It is all personal preference

 

[snowman 700]

I removed the studs from a 2007 Apex RTX I bought used a few years back. They didn't take long to remove & the track remained reliable. I have been sledding for about 35 years now & personaly never had any kind of "safety" issues with never running studs. It would be the same as running a car without studs, drive accordingly. Studs add lots of extra weight to the track which unfortunately robs you of top speed. Studs can also cause damage & wear. It is all personal preference

I see you are in northern Canada and probably have great snow conditions that would not need studs. Where I ride in Michigan the corners get icy and studs are a MUST for stopping and not spinning out in the corner. Another need....I had my studded sled in the shop and had a dealer demo that wasn't studded and stopped for gas the pump had a big glare ice spot in front of it that I stopped on. When I went to leave I gave is some throttle and it just spun the track. I could not get moving...Had to get off and push at the same time to get going while my wife with a studded track pulled away with ease. I agree it is all personal preference but also where you ride.

 

[tomanytoyz]

Yes get them out ! Probably bent and wore out...Studs.. I stopped studding years ago. 80% is snow and 20% icy spots, need them at times etc no biggie .

Also the damage up under sled - exhaust - heat exchanger .

I purchased a pre-studded track ! I get traction (not like a nailed track) but enough, with no worries . I love this track !