Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
100% yes it will. Not sure how much of an issue that is. Another member on here (kennyspec I think) left his open and said it wasn’t much of an issue.
earthling
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Not sure I want to follow you down a trail
I can only imagine it would be problematic, in light snow conditions you are going to be mr snow cloud, in heavier conditions you are going to get blasted by thick heavy snow, hopefully without any rocks or twigs involved. I guess experience trumps all in this case so it will be interesting to see how it works out.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Paneling has been a pain for sure. A one piece carbon fiber insert would be best but incredibly time consuming and expensive. HDPE has a lot of upsides but not good next to heat and needs lots of fasteners.
Nothing I do has to be permanent though. As I’ve said from the beginning, the frame will only be spray painted so if I have to go back and re do something or make new panels it won’t be the end of the world.
Appreciate all the feedback.
Nothing I do has to be permanent though. As I’ve said from the beginning, the frame will only be spray painted so if I have to go back and re do something or make new panels it won’t be the end of the world.
Appreciate all the feedback.
YamaSpark
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I would go with the HDPE per your original concept, including quality zip ties. It is not at all ugly, in my opinion!
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I have a bunch of .040 scraps so I cut one just to see.
Brotherdan
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- 2011 apex xtx blue, starr suspension,gytr front shocks,camso 1.5 track cut down, snowtrackers work in process,2003 rx1er originally 121 converted to 136"monoshock 2 ck136 rear suspension with clicker vector ltx shock,muffin works tunnel extension, seat concepts(wrp) seat,apex hooked handlebars converted to all underhood wiring,8"lake effect billet aluminum riser,gytr frontshocks,yamaheater hand warmer kit,rocks ridelite,rocks power supply, rocks heated bag,, tunnel braces,blue skid plate,garmin gps, aggressive snowtrackers on apex single keel skis,rollerski ski wheel kit,108 warthog studs&blue studboy backers,pioneer wheel lowering kit, dupont slides, 4th wheel kit,yamaha saddle, tank& windshield bags, powermadd led handguards, bar mount mirror kit, apex radiator& electric fan added, apex rear cooler,autometer temp guage, apex new style large diameter drive shaft with extroverts machined for chaincase,thunder products clutching,1987 enticer 340ltr 2100miles,1984 enticer 340,1996 wolverine 350,big wheel kit,winch,racks,k&n,full skidplates
I like the aluminum & personally I would definitely close it in for safety, it would suck to get a stick or something driven through your leg!! Also I think keeping the track shrouded would be much safer & keep snow off you & the running boards, The plastic is light but I think the aluminum looks more finished &more custom,wouldn’t have to worry so much about heat& would only have to powder coat the backside to keep snow from sticking
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Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
General consensus on Snowest Forum was to fully panel the sides. Decided to switch gears and finish the last aluminum panel that the header goes through and then finish up the heat shields around the flex joints.
The last panel is .050 2024-T3. Holes aren’t finished yet, opened them up enough to get the header in but needed motor and flex joints installed to the find the final position of the header.
A few things. When I built this I wanted to the motor as close to the jackshaft as possible to keep the front light and frame compact. In doing so it’s definitely extra work to install the motor. The motor will not install with the front aluminum panel in, the oil filter hits big time. Luckily the aluminum plate can easily install after motor is in.
Clearance to starter with plate installed.
Clearance to oil filter. If I pull the bottom 2 fasteners out the aluminum will flex back enough to remove the oil filter.
Got super lucky, when I made the plate for the header to pass through I thought it was plenty far back. Found it’s so close one of the clamps touches. I’ll open up the screw holes on the top of the plate so I can push it back a little so the clamp isn’t rubbing.
Factory heat shield.
I will have to cut it down to fit.
I’m hoping I can use the factory lower heat shield half and cut it to fit so I don’t have to fab one.
The last panel is .050 2024-T3. Holes aren’t finished yet, opened them up enough to get the header in but needed motor and flex joints installed to the find the final position of the header.
A few things. When I built this I wanted to the motor as close to the jackshaft as possible to keep the front light and frame compact. In doing so it’s definitely extra work to install the motor. The motor will not install with the front aluminum panel in, the oil filter hits big time. Luckily the aluminum plate can easily install after motor is in.
Clearance to starter with plate installed.
Clearance to oil filter. If I pull the bottom 2 fasteners out the aluminum will flex back enough to remove the oil filter.
Got super lucky, when I made the plate for the header to pass through I thought it was plenty far back. Found it’s so close one of the clamps touches. I’ll open up the screw holes on the top of the plate so I can push it back a little so the clamp isn’t rubbing.
Factory heat shield.
I will have to cut it down to fit.
I’m hoping I can use the factory lower heat shield half and cut it to fit so I don’t have to fab one.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Can anyone with a Nytro tell me how close to the motor the heat shields are? I have them cut right now so they are right at the motor but installation would be easier if I removed maybe another 1/4”.
I would like to cut 1/4” off the front or maybe even a little more so the shield was flush with the mounting surface of the exhaust flange. I can’t remember what they are like from the factory.
I would like to cut 1/4” off the front or maybe even a little more so the shield was flush with the mounting surface of the exhaust flange. I can’t remember what they are like from the factory.
earthling
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I wouldn't worry about losing another 1/4" on that shield. The primary source of heat is going to be convection/radiant and it is coming from the pipes themselves, after the flange.
SteveBlue
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Be sure to give it enough room for motor mount flex. At full power the engine can move quite a ways while pulling on that belt. My 270hp nytro had the top shield wearing into the valve cover when I got it.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
I cut it back another 5/16”, there is sufficient clearance and it’s much easier to install.
Mounting will be easy, just need to make some 3/8” thick spacers out of aluminum and I can bolt it to the piece below.
Pulled the motor back out. Going to finish cleaning up the holes for the header and then get the heat shields finished up.
Such an insane amount of work, I would never do this again but I am committed at this point to either finish it or watch it rust a slow death in my shop.
Mounting will be easy, just need to make some 3/8” thick spacers out of aluminum and I can bolt it to the piece below.
Pulled the motor back out. Going to finish cleaning up the holes for the header and then get the heat shields finished up.
Such an insane amount of work, I would never do this again but I am committed at this point to either finish it or watch it rust a slow death in my shop.
74Nitro
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Is it necessary to have a lower heat shield?
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Not sure, never thought about it to be honest.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
Finished centering and cleaning up the holes on this piece, it’s done for now. Eventually I will need to make a hole for the charge tube and oil line to turbo.
Went back and forth on how to space the heat shield up and decided to use .032 sheet, plenty strong enough to support a heat shield and that piece only weighs 0.11 lbs.
Had to reinstall the motor and flex joints so I could find the final position for the heat shield. I slid it as far to right as I could because I need to try and squeeze the charge tube through the other side.
Need to fit charge tube here
Going to pull the motor back out, finish fitting the top heat shield cover and then I can get back on the tunnel sides.
Went back and forth on how to space the heat shield up and decided to use .032 sheet, plenty strong enough to support a heat shield and that piece only weighs 0.11 lbs.
Had to reinstall the motor and flex joints so I could find the final position for the heat shield. I slid it as far to right as I could because I need to try and squeeze the charge tube through the other side.
Need to fit charge tube here
Going to pull the motor back out, finish fitting the top heat shield cover and then I can get back on the tunnel sides.
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