Nyper build thread

[kennyspec]

Are you going to be running the same track driver position as the viper chassis? I have always thought of dropping it down a bunch and using a 8 or 9 tooth driver to get a much better approach angle. Don’t know how much better this would make it in the real world though.

 

[Nikolai]

Yes I am, it will be the same as a 2017 Sidewinder. Since I’m using an Apex chaincase I’m limited to a 7-tooth 3” pitch driver with a 3” track. The C to C on the Apex case is only 7”(same as Nytro). It’d be easy enough to drop the driveshaft and run a longer chaincase but I’m on a tight budget (2nd kid on the way) so I’m stuck using what I have. A viper belt drive would probably be the easiest way to go.

Started playing around with the motor positioning a little.

 

[Nikolai]

I haven’t ridden in a while but I talked to a buddy who owns a dealership who has ridden sidewinders and Cats with the D&R’d chaincase and his opinion was to stay with the Sidewinder setup. He didn’t seem to think the dropped chaincase made that much of a difference and he doesnt like how vulnerable it makes the driveshaft. That is just his opinion but I trust him 100%.

Now if you read on Snowest, everyone says the D&R makes a huge difference, so perhaps it does?

 

[Nikolai]

Are you going to be running the same track driver position as the viper chassis? I have always thought of dropping it down a bunch and using a 8 or 9 tooth driver to get a much better approach angle. Don’t know how much better this would make it in the real world though.

I looked at my sled some more today. I almost have the motor where it needs to be and if the driveshaft was dropped down a little it would allow the motor to come back some more.

I have to priorities with the motor position.
#1 is to get the motor as far back as possible
#2 is to get the motor as low as possible

Right now I’m meeting both of those, but the starter is the furthest protruding part of the motor. Dropping the driveshaft down even 1/2” would let the motor scoot back a little more. I may look at doing this. I don’t want to drop it too far or I have change the suspension mounting points but I think a 1/2” would be fine.

 

[Nikolai]

Got the motor about set. Clamped a piece of flatstock to the driveshaft to check clearance at the motor mount, starter and motor. It’s adequate.

With the motor being so low, it can’t go forward anymore or I really screw myslef on the rear a-arm mount on the Mag side. It’s alteady going to be tight.

It’s low enough that I can make a tunnel the same height as the Nytro and have the header underneath. If I raise the motor anymore then the header will be too high and will have to be modified.

So the motor is kinda where it has to be. I’m going to leave it for a few days and keep looking at it before I tack weld anything to lock it in place. Motor placement is a big deal and I don’t want to overlook anything.

Comparison to the Viper placement. It’s significantly lower and a little further back. I don’t know what the difference in handling or balance will be. I’ve just been trying to make the chassis as compact as possible. Wether that’s good or bad I have no idea.

 

[kennyspec]

Assuming this will be turboed why not mount the turbo on a custom log style manifold right at the engine and fab up a aluminum fuel tank? That’s my plan for my tubie. I would much rather have the top of my tunnel 2-3” lower with no header in it. Run a side dump exhaust like the viper.

 

[Nikolai]

Just personal preference. Weight balance, header efficiency and heat are the main reasons. It does complicate things but I’ll work around it.

My tunnel is only 15-9/16” wide and I’ll angle the upper corners like the factory Nytro tunnel so I think(and hope) the extra height won’t be noticeable.

 

[Nikolai]

I’m trying not to have anything on the Mag side of the motor so I need to figure how to fab an oil tank that mounts in front of the motor or find a factory tank that will work. Or build a long narrow one to go on the side where the factory tank mounts.

 

[Nikolai]

Steering arm jigged.

I have two options for the front tube. 1. To run above the mounts, or 2. Run below and make the rear mount of the jig removeable. I have just enough room to fit a tube below right now.

If I run the tube above the mounts it leaves the motor exposed so I’m leaning towards option 2.

 

[kennyspec]

I’d run it below. If you did run it above you will still probably have to bulkhead something down anyway to make a skid plate. Perhaps this way you can make the skid plate tie into the tubes and strengthen it.

 

[Nikolai]

So I ended up dropping the chaincase straight down 0.5”. I figured since the Sidewinder has 2 front arm mounting holes and I’m using the lower, then I should be able to drop the driveshaft without an issue. I did this for a slightly better approach angle and more motor clearance.

I also spaced the chaincase out another 0.125”. Put a plate behind my bracket and made 5 new spacers. I did this so that once my 1” tubing is in place, I can weld a piece of .125” 4130 plate right over the tube instead of having to recess it and flush mount it. Chaincase will then bolt right to the plate.

I’m just about finished with the motor as well. Next day or two and I should have the bracing done that will hold it in place. This has been kind of slow because I have to make sure the bracing is not in the way of where I’m running tubes.

 

[MikeWalters]

Outstanding work, Yamaha could learn something from your builds! Keep posting with pics!

 

[Nikolai]

Few pics from working on the motor bracing.

It took a lot of searching to track this down on TY. I’ll be splitting the difference on both measurements. Clutch offset will be jigged at 15mm and C to C will be jigged at 268.5 mm or 10.57”.

More to come, hoping to be done with the motor Friday.

 

[Nikolai]

Motor is done. I redid the back portion by the oil filter so it holds it tight on 3 sides of the case. It was not fun getting the TIG torch in there and tacking with one hand while holding the pieces tight with the other.

Then added a brace in the front to hold the motor down so I don’t need a support underneath the rear which would be in the way of the tube work for the motor mounts. The motor is rock solid.

15mm clutch offset.

And parallel

I’m in the process of making a clutch alignment tool to position the jackshaft. Should have that done and locked down Tuesday.

I also pulled some measurements from a new Viper today so once the jackshaft is done I can jig for the steering post “T” top.

 

[Nikolai]

Clutch C to C tool made. Used an Ironworker at work to punch the holes to keep the spacing accurate. It’s at 268.5 mm.

Need to weld some tabs to the jig to bolt my alu plates to and then I’ll probably do the steering post.