Off-season maintenance

[Snowman11]

Wife got new pots n pans... So I got new "catch pans" for the garage .. lol alwase have a need to catch some type of machine fluid

 

[Snowman11]

Now I gotta find something to dump it into.. oil change pan is full from truck and whatnot... Prolly gunna be a mess , ive maintained nice clean in the garage till last nite when I got flustered with the damn Allen bolts , $h*t all over the place lol

 

[Snowman11]

Allegidly the guy who owned this before , said he changed the chaincase oil before this last season , but it's over full as per the " with reverse" levels on the stick .. so I'll tear it down, prolly repack those chaincase side bearings for shafts and MAYBE go down a tooth or two on top gear , can I go down two teeth with the same chain ?

 

[slowride06er]

I'm not sure if you can go down two teeth on top gear from stock. When my sled was a 121 gearing was 24 top 38 bottom. I went with 23 top and stayed with 38 bottom. However when I made the changes I extended it to a 136 at this time. Corner to corner it flies I did put 24 top back in last season to see if my seat dyno thought it was faster. I have since put 23 back in as it seems faster out of the hole and has a fun factor on trails. I didn't however make any clutch changes when 24 was installed.

I'm going a different direction on my clutching next season since I missed spring power surge. I'm going to try stock weights again current setup and another one that was recommended to me. Going to take a day on the lake to play. I want to find my fastest setup and then tweak sled but that's me.

When I changed my antifreeze I did add some kinda adder to keep temp down. Cool ice can't recall what it was called.

 

[maim]

I always fill the chaincase to the full mark on the no reverse side of the stick. No problems.

 

[Snowman11]

I always fill the chaincase to the full mark on the no reverse side of the stick. No problems.

Ok good to know ... Doesn't hurt to have a little more fluid... Lots of HP going threw like 8oz of fluid

 

[Snowman11]

I'm not sure if you can go down two teeth on top gear from stock. When my sled was a 121 gearing was 24 top 38 bottom. I went with 23 top and stayed with 38 bottom. However when I made the changes I extended it to a 136 at this time. Corner to corner it flies I did put 24 top back in last season to see if my seat dyno thought it was faster. I have since put 23 back in as it seems faster out of the hole and has a fun factor on trails. I didn't however make any clutch changes when 24 was installed.

I'm going a different direction on my clutching next season since I missed spring power surge. I'm going to try stock weights again current setup and another one that was recommended to me. Going to take a day on the lake to play. I want to find my fastest setup and then tweak sled but that's me.

When I changed my antifreeze I did add some kinda adder to keep temp down. Cool ice can't recall what it was called.

I have a brand new camoplast 1.25 ripsaw with like 200 miles I put on my mxz ... Thinking of swapping it on this sled .. dunno if it would really do anything... The track on this is in good shape for 4000 miles .. I measured and the new camoplast on my mxz has only 75 thousands more lug not alot .. seeing how the Apex has 4000 miles on its track ..but the rip saw is a "fully clipped" track ... I deffinitly want to try dropping at least one tooth on top gear . Do u think the more snappy "corner to corner" came from your clutch instead of the gear .. or probably a combo of both .. that's what I'm really after seeing how Im mainy trail riding ... seeing how I'll rarley go 120 anyway but going from corner to corner pulling the skis and ripping ur arm sockets out is what I prefer .. think it's worth swapping the track ? It's alot of work .. the original track on this looks like a camoplast , but is slightly different than my rip saw

 

[thor452]

rewire can only be done on hand warmers if you have the bolt on bar ends. if you have the one piece bars that have heat to the end of the hooks then you for sure need to talk to Rockmeister about yamaheaters. if you have the bolt on bar ends you just need to get the wiring harness for a 2007-2010 apex and the rewire is done for you as they switched from parallel to series or vise versa I don't remember which way they are but I know toe 2006 bars were wired one way and 07 and up are the other way and if you wire the 06 bars like an 07 and up they are capable of getting so hot you cant hold onto them and will only ride with 3-4 bars of heat max.

 

[Snowman11]

rewire can only be done on hand warmers if you have the bolt on bar ends. if you have the one piece bars that have heat to the end of the hooks then you for sure need to talk to Rockmeister about yamaheaters. if you have the bolt on bar ends you just need to get the wiring harness for a 2007-2010 apex and the rewire is done for you as they switched from parallel to series or vise versa I don't remember which way they are but I know toe 2006 bars were wired one way and 07 and up are the other way and if you wire the 06 bars like an 07 and up they are capable of getting so hot you cant hold onto them and will only ride with 3-4 bars of heat max.

Yes my bars are the "hooked" version and I'm def going to look into into the yamiheaters

 

[thor452]

Yes my bars are the "hooked" version and I'm def going to look into into the yamiheaters

Well they all have hooked bars on them but in 2006 and only 2006 the stock bars were not all one piece the hooks were actually bolt on. the 07 and newer bars were all one piece. the hand grips were more shinny than dull and more smooth. the stock 06 bars are dull and more rubber like and have more of a grip feel. also if you look at the bend in the hook there will be a hole for the bolt on the outside of the hook. you have a 2006 so chances are good you have the 06 bars but many did upgrade to the 07 bars just to find they were no better. if you have the 06 bars you have everything you need for super hot hands if you have 07 and newer bars Rock is the man.

 

[Snowman11]

Yes they have the bolt on ends

 

[slowride06er]

I have a brand new camoplast 1.25 ripsaw with like 200 miles I put on my mxz ... Thinking of swapping it on this sled .. dunno if it would really do anything... The track on this is in good shape for 4000 miles .. I measured and the new camoplast on my mxz has only 75 thousands more lug not alot .. seeing how the Apex has 4000 miles on its track ..but the rip saw is a "fully clipped" track ... I deffinitly want to try dropping at least one tooth on top gear . Do u think the more snappy "corner to corner" came from your clutch instead of the gear .. or probably a combo of both .. that's what I'm really after seeing how Im mainy trail riding ... seeing how I'll rarley go 120 anyway but going from corner to corner pulling the skis and ripping ur arm sockets out is what I prefer .. think it's worth swapping the track ? It's alot of work .. the original track on this looks like a camoplast , but is slightly different than my rip saw

I'd leave the track alone if it's the original lots of people run these track 8k to 10k mileage.

I'm sure the snap I got out of sled was the 23 gear upper. Yes clutching did change how the sled ran. I feel that the 24 upper was a fuel mileage move by Yamaha, but this is a opinion others can and will say differently. If you were closer or ever make it UP here your more than welcome to ride my sled for comparison.

Big reasons I went with a 136 was for trail riding bridging bumps. At the end of the day I am happy with my choice. 90 percent of the time a 136 is faster than a 121 can't say it enough, but I do miss that 10 percent. Not sure if I would have a 136 if I would have revalved my shocks first.

With 23 top gear sled will still run 105-110 GPS on better days 113-117 dose still happen but need good speed conditions for that. This is all with a tall Yamaha windy with supports. Can pick up another 2-4 with stock one, but after I got frost bite for third time I rather be comfortable then cool.

 

[Snowman11]

When I dropped a gear size on my doo, it helps loads .. kept it in the power band easier , but being a 4 stroke these have a much larger power band , I'd deff be interested to try one with a 136 .. I'm sure ride quaily is fantastic and more track on the ground for rippin . And I agree , what I'd gain off the other track is prolly nothing , and the hours of wrechinf to swap them would suck , deff get alot of tourque spin with a 121 and only 1.25 lug , depends on riding conditions I guess, I've only rode this 150 miles or so as I got it to late in the season

 

[maim]

the 1-1/4" ripsaw on my apex has 10000 mi on it and is not showing any obvious signs of failure yet.

 

[slowride06er]

When I dropped a gear size on my doo, it helps loads .. kept it in the power band easier , but being a 4 stroke these have a much larger power band , I'd deff be interested to try one with a 136 .. I'm sure ride quaily is fantastic and more track on the ground for rippin . And I agree , what I'd gain off the other track is prolly nothing , and the hours of wrechinf to swap them would suck , deff get alot of tourque spin with a 121 and only 1.25 lug , depends on riding conditions I guess, I've only rode this 150 miles or so as I got it to late in the season

I owned a few two strokes as well. There's one that stands out in my mind a tripple that I tuned to run 7600-7700 max rpms and it flat out hauled. The nice about a apex is there alot more forgiving compared to a two stroke when it comes to target rpm's.