Once upon a time, I had a belt blower, then Mike Knapp and Clutchmaster did some magic

[KnappAttack]

Interesting. I do have a red cat spring I think... I got it from ulmer. I may have to give it a try. He has told me to wrap it at 9-1.

That spring is fine up to 240-250 HP, beyond that not enough depending on helix used, been proven on the track dyno and in the field, may be fine for running hardpack and/or ice however. That spring is not much if any more than the B/O. Just don't try it thinking its a bunch more than that, I don't have one here for testing but know how close it is to the B/O from others testing.

 

[PowderFalcon]

Everyone has a different thought. ClutchMaster and myself like NO FLOAT. For the trail guy not on the throttle the whole way from bottom to top, float may be alright.

Set your driven to float, lock the brake and pull the driven outwards, now twist it by hand as though you are applying power to the front of the sled like the belt would be applying and try and push it inwards, just by hand, now imagine multiplying it many-many times over from the engines power. Do you think the driven is going to self align without letting off the power at some point? I don't think it will myself so I set up for no float.

Notice that Beerman also pulled a cord but caught it in time to cut it off and burn it. I have not pulled a cord yet running the 8DN. Does that prove anything? I don't know, maybe, maybe not. I don't have enough miles yet to confirm or deny any of it due to the lousy, hell non-existant winter were having here at home. Have a week long trip coming up to see if I can learn more myself.

One thing I know is I have never had any issues setting up for no float on past turbo or even NA machines, and I have had numerous belt issues floating. So I'm never floating any of my own machines again. What works for one guy, may not work for another, it all depends on the circumstances.

That’s really interesting Knapp, thanks for your insight. I’ve got mine locked with 1mm float remaining. 58.5mm offset. (With hurricane bar).

 

[ClutchMaster]

So I’m no expert but here’s my 2 cents. Last year I tried the tp orange secondary spring, prior to using this spring I hadn’t blown a belt the whole first season. I blew 3 belts in 500 kms with the tp orange. I had it at the recommended 70 degrees and went as low as 40 degrees. Clutches were smoking hot and I took out 3 belts in one trip. ( I didn’t bring my stock spring with me).

I got home and put in the dalton black orange in and ended up at 3-3. 2000’ pulls back to back to back, cool clutches and no blown belts. I trail ride with this setup and have yet to blow another belt. All this with a 41/35 dalton.

So the other day I thought I’d try the 35 for the hell of it. I wrapped it at 6-1 and went for a ride. I made some good pulls on the rail bed but I could hear it slipping. I stopped and clutches were smoking hot and rubber all over my sheaves.

Maybe I’m out to lunch but my sled seems to work better with more helix and less spring force. Cool clutches all day long. Again my 2 cents.

Oh I hear ya!
Run what works!
I think some of these discrepancies in clutching are rider styles, some snow conditions, belts used, and some alignment differences.
What belt are you using? Just curious.

 

[MrSled]

While I am getting closer to where I need to be, I still get a vibration when cruising at 70-90 mph. I used to think it was snow buildup in the tunnel but after last week I think it is the secondary slipping. Might have to try this spring. Can I run it with the 35 helix or do I need something steeper?

I get this weird vibration at 70 as well at steady throttle but as I increase in speed it drops off. I wonder if the belt is slipping? I am ready to tear the chain-case apart.

 

[KnappAttack]

I get this weird vibration at 70 as well at steady throttle but as I increase in speed it drops off. I wonder if the belt is slipping? I am ready to tear the chain-case apart.

Tom, Steady speed vibrations are usually a bad belt. For instance just one slip spot in it from loading on a trailer, getting stuck or taking off with the brake on will wear one spot on the belt causing that type of vibration. Change the belt first and report back.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I get this weird vibration at 70 as well at steady throttle but as I increase in speed it drops off. I wonder if the belt is slipping? I am ready to tear the chain-case apart.

Mine did this alot too(60mph)....then my roller on tensioner came out!

Not sure if this was loose all along, but I would check tensioner.

My Ultimax still ticking...

Dan

 

[Lusemeat924]

Everyone has a different thought. ClutchMaster and myself like NO FLOAT. For the trail guy not on the throttle the whole way from bottom to top, float may be alright.

Set your driven to float, lock the brake and pull the driven outwards, now twist it by hand as though you are applying power to the front of the sled like the belt would be applying and try and push it inwards, just by hand, now imagine multiplying it many-many times over from the engines power. Do you think the driven is going to self align without letting off the power at some point? I don't think it will myself so I set up for no float.

Notice that Beerman also pulled a cord but caught it in time to cut it off and burn it. I have not pulled a cord yet running the 8DN. Does that prove anything? I don't know, maybe, maybe not. I don't have enough miles yet to confirm or deny any of it due to the lousy, hell non-existant winter were having here at home. Have a week long trip coming up to see if I can learn more myself.

One thing I know is I have never had any issues setting up for no float on past turbo or even NA machines, and I have had numerous belt issues floating. So I'm never floating any of my own machines again. What works for one guy, may not work for another, it all depends on the circumstances.

That being said, when you guys helped beerman set up this sled, beerman will have float due to using the TP belt adjuster.
Any thoughts on this? I trying to decide float or no float myself.

 

[Lusemeat924]

X2.... also would like part number

Arctic Cat Part # 0748-025

 

[Beerman]

That being said, when you guys helped beerman set up this sled, beerman will have float due to using the TP belt adjuster.
Any thoughts on this? I trying to decide float or no float myself.

To be fair - they both wanted me to eliminate the Float but I ran out of time before the weekend. Seems to be working "for me". I may still end up eliminating it, but think I'll need a different adjuster to do that.

 

[ClutchMaster]

He couldn’t do it he loves his floats!

 

[MrSled]

Tom, Steady speed vibrations are usually a bad belt. For instance just one slip spot in it from loading on a trailer, getting stuck or taking off with the brake on will wear one spot on the belt causing that type of vibration. Change the belt first and report back.

I will try that but I have looked over the belt and its perfect. After seeing Dans tensioner fall apart I have to rip the case down. 4900 miles.. have to be sure its all solid even the bearings.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Oh I hear ya!
Run what works!
I think some of these discrepancies in clutching are rider styles, some snow conditions, belts used, and some alignment differences.
What belt are you using? Just curious.

8jp

 

[johan]

To be fair - they both wanted me to eliminate the Float but I ran out of time before the weekend. Seems to be working "for me". I may still end up eliminating it, but think I'll need a different adjuster to do that.

Just machine the adjuster, did that on mine i took away 4mm so it will take away the float

 

[WVTurboLTX]

Tom, Steady speed vibrations are usually a bad belt. For instance just one slip spot in it from loading on a trailer, getting stuck or taking off with the brake on will wear one spot on the belt causing that type of vibration. Change the belt first and report back.

Mine has always done this. New belt, old belt, didn't matter. Just went through entire chain case at the begining of the year. Tensioner was good but redid screws with red loctite and all bearings were smooth running. Only does it from 70-90 at part throttle on long runs.

 

[bleedyamaha]

I have my TD orange secondary spring set at 3/3=60. If I increase it to 70 would that help with the side pressure you are talking about?