rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[obr]

well, you can always buy my hood and pay me when your wife gives you more money... LOL

 

[rxrider]

So true ... I would definitively need more money ... do you think she will increase my allowance hahaha LOL not likely, I'm stretching it already

 

[obr]

LOL.-...I just got mine home from IKEA...guess I'll have some more money to spend on sled stuff this month...

just tell your she can get the pair of boots she always wanted...works for me every time...

 

[rxrider]

hahaha now we're talking, I'll give it a try

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE September 27. - Finishing off carb rack assembly. Installing turbo carb springs from HURRICANE. Adjusting ski alignment.


I started by changing the RH side double clamp, the ones that holds the carb rack to the engine. The #2 clamp was worn out due to me constantly re-jetting my sled last season to get the AFRs prefect, which I could not manage to achieve at a 100%, only 80-90% due to not having the correct carb springs installed.

Next was superglueing the rubber caps on the chocke mechanism to the plastic plug connected to the carbs. The rubber caps blew off last season. I believe running anything past 12-13 lbs is going to blow them off if not glued in place.

Installing the chocke leverage. First off was installing the 4 thin plastic washers onto the carbs, apply some light oil. Then installing the leverage, apply some light oil. Install 4 more thin washers on top, then the leverage was fastened to the carb rack by 4 large headed screws.

Done.

I continued by installing the electric heater circuitry onto the carb rack, one plug for each carb and finally the ground wire was attached to the carb rack.

Next was installing the pressure signal hoses that lifts the CV slides according to pressure seen in the intercooler plenum. I continued by installing the slides assy into the carbs.

I installed new turbo carb springs (HURRICANE RACING) and then I installed the billet carb caps (STM - SupremeTools&Machine).

Done.

Last work to do was installing of a new set of pressure signal hoses for the pressurization of the float bowls, it allow the carbs to feed fuel according to boost pressure seen in the IC plenum.

Done.

At last I installed the fuel hoses to the carb rack, not seen in the pics.


Before dinner I started to work on the alignment of the skis. I have the special tool to put down into the engine compartment, this tool locks off the steering while at the same time keeps the steering in the centre or neutral position.

This tool makes adjustment of the handlebars and ski alignment a breeze

A huge thanks go to my friends at the Yamaha Dealership for letting me borrow the tool.

I used a perfectly straight 2x2 and aligned it with the inside of the tunnel. The 2x2 is used as a reference point from which all ski alignment will be measured and adjusted accordingly.

Measurements has to be made both at the front and the rear of the ski, total toe out is 0" to 1/2". I like to have the toe out at about 1/4".

Adjustments done, I ended up with 8 millimeter or 5/16" toe our.

One of the oil hoses from the MCX turbo kit is noe needed anymore and have been removed. It was T'ed into the thin oil line at the oil tank.

I removed the hose,

and replaced it with a new one I made up.

Done.

Both the fuel delivery line from the gas tank to the fuel pump and the fuel return line from the MCX turbo kit is too short and can't be used with the REV gas tank, I have to get hold of longer fuel and fuel return lines.

I removed the lines.

I figured it was time to install the carb rack. First I hooked up the coolant line on the engine side to the carb rack.

Next I plugged in the carb heater wireing.

Hooked up the TORS

Hooked up the TPS

I lubed the rubber boots with some spit and slid the carb rack in place and tighten down the clamps holding the carb rack in place. Using spit as lube on rubber work wonders. The carbs slide on like a warm knife thru butter, and the best thing they stick in there real good, when removing the carb rack I usually have to use quite a bit of force to pull it off

I also hooked up the coolant line on the LH side of the carb rack.

With the carb rack in place I installed the fuel lines to the fuel pressure regulator.

Carb rack done.

The MCX oil lines for the turbo is a little too long for a front mount turbo system and have to be cut down quite a bit. I need to get the turbo first to find out which connectors to use on the hoses, then cut the hoses down to the appropriate length and take the hoses out to a auto shop and have them install new connectors to the hoses.

Chocke cable installed.

Throttle cable installed up at the throttle lever,

and down at the carb rack.

Last thing I did today was to tape the wireing together, it's ready to go into the split tubing I intend to wrap around the wireing, just like it's done on the Apex or newer sleds. I also zip-tied the chocke and throttle wires to the riser block to make it look more tidy

I have come so far that I cannot do much more before I get the turbo parts from Powder Lites. Hood and tank covling is out at the painter. I have decided to paint them black, I found some bold new graphics at ArcticFX what will look awesome on a black sled. I cut out quite a bit of the frame, the hole have to be covered with a new aluminum plate 1.5 millimeter thick, I have it on order but it was a few weeks delivery time as the local welder was out of stock. Last thing I can do while waiting for the turbo parts is start working on the seat to make it fit the REV gas tank. I may start working on that part tomorrow.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE September 30. - Installing fuel line and fuel return line. Finishing off the handle bar wireing project. Installing skid plate and then some.


I started todays work by driving around town to get hold of fuel lines for fuel delivery to the fuel pump (found it at Esso gas station) and a thinner line for fuel return from the fuel pressure regulator (found it at Scania auto and heavy machine). Next thing I needed was the tubing to hold the wireing (found it at Handicare auto shop)

I started by installing the fuel and fuel retun lines. The thick line goes from to the fuel pump and the thinner one goes from the fuel pressure regulator.

I routed the lines over to the RH side of the deltabox frame then up on the side of the carb rack and finally over the cross bar in the delta box frame.

Lines ready to hook up to the tank.

This is how it looks like with all fuel line plumbing done. Only work left before I can install the Intercooler is installing of the oil kit and cooling kit for the Garrett turbo, it's still in Canada waiting for my friends turbo header to arrive from the ceramic coater.

Next was working on the wireing up at the handle bars, I installed some split plastic tubings to cover up the wireing. First split tube installed, wireing inside and zip-ties on each end of the tube to hold the wireing inside.

All done. I think it turned out great

I cleaned up the Intercooler, it's ready to be installed.

I riveted the skid plate to the sled.

Finally I installed the pressure signal line going to the billet T's to pressurize the float bowls.

Not much more I can do before I get the turbo parts from Powder Lites. PL has promised shipment early this week so I hope shipment will be done this week.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE October 1. - Building new tubing for the pressure/vacuum signal hoses. Re-packing secondary side jackshaft bearing with new grease.


I figured I wanted to change the layout for the pressure/vacuum signal hoses running from the carb boots to hook to my Boost Gauge, Vortech Race Bypass and Mitsubishi BOV. I wanted to join the lines from cylinder 1&2 and 3&4 then install a tube across between the two where I hooked up the T's for the equipment.

Here's a drawing of how it's going to be assembled.

Done.

Next was repacking the secondary side jack shaft bearing with new grease. It was due for a repack as the bearing was rather dry inside, other than that the bearing was in great shape. Tools needed for the job. A C-clip plier to remove the C-clip holding the bearing in place and a small flat screwdriver to open the bearing seal.

I pressed in a lot of new grease into the bearing, I was nowhere near beeing shy on the grease. I pressed the grease into the bearing with my fingers to ensure the bearing got filled with grease.

Installed the seal onto the bearing.

Installed the C-clip holding the bearing inside the bulkhead. Done.

I also got hold of a new speedo side driveshaft bearing.

I'm progressing slowly, it's going slow but it's going forward

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE October 2. - Routing fuel and vent lines for the REV gas tank. Re-packing speedo side driveshaft bearing with new grease.


The hose for the fuel return was too wide for the stock air vent plug in the REV gas tank, had to change it out for a larger fuel line plug. The plug in the rear is the fuel return, and the plug in the front is the air vent.

Mockup done. Everything seems to fit just fine when it comes to plumbing to the gas tank.

I also repacked with grease the brand new speedo side drive shaft bearing I just bought. I have no pics of it due to the amount of grease on my fingers LOL when working on it. But here's how it's done. With a small flat screwdriver carefully lift the bearing seal and remove it from the bearing. Pack up the inside of the bearing with grease, I use my fingers to push the grease down into the bearing, topped up with grease and reinstalled the bearing seal, cleaned the bearing and put it away ready to be installed at a later time.

 

[TT]

Move the signal for the fuel pressure regulator from the plenum to the carb boots. Have it T'ed together with all 4 boots. You have the Vortech bypass that takes care of possible lean condition when engine is seeing vacum. I did it last year after recomdation from Hurricane and Dave at Powderlites - no more flooding

 

[rxrider]

Will I have to adjust the fuel pressure regulator in order to maintain fuel pressure in the carbs, or would the fuel pressure regulator see the same pressure even with the thin lines from the carb boost?

Man gotta go out and re-do the carb boot plumbing LOL.

TT - thanks for your input, will do.

BTW - no turbo parts yet :-( should ship last week, problems with my friends header so it got delayed, should get fixed right away and shipped early this week, it's not early week anymore, I'm not a happy camper as of now.... :-(

PS! that may change in no time, if I get the word that the parts are ready to ship.
In the meantime....I'm waiting......patiently.....a few more days....

 

[rxrider]

Going out to re-route the fuel pressure signal line to the carb boots. I already have all 4 T'ed together, gotta make room for the fuel pressure regulator signal line.

I hate it when my sled floods, and I'm way overdue on the cure, better GtR'done now.

 

[TT]

I am using the same fuel pressure. I used a reducer T from the signal hose to the T'ed vacum hoses - secured with clue and clamps. My signal hose is 8mm.

I know the feeling when waiting for parts - not fun.

Offer still stands if you need a turbo. You can use it if snow starts to fly, about time that we get to see that baby fly! But rember the small Gt2554 is only good for about 14 psi - has a lot of back pressure compared to the GT2860RS you are waiting for. But it would be nice to see some drag runs on the lawn with your "new animal"

 

[TT]

Rxrider remeber that you need a flow restrictor (0,035) in the oil feed line for the garrett ballbaring turbo - it doesn't need as much oil flow as you old turbo. Ted J. sells the restrictor cheap - it fits -3 or -4 AN femal fittings. OR you could just use a 60-80 jet in the oil feed line.

Last recomadation I got from Justin Fuller (designer of the Bender kit ) was 70 for flatland and 60 for mountains. I went with 60 jet.

Here is a nice link how Turbo Tim did his restrictor:

http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=52229&highlight=restrictor

 

[rxrider]

Just got off the phone with Dave and Darren at Powder Lites... yoooohooooo turbo parts are ready to ship

 

[rxrider]

I ordered the oil kit for the turbo while talking to Dave, I guess it contains the restrictor. Anyway, thanks for the heads up TT

Right now waiting for parts feels pretty OK cause they're on their way