rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[Blue shadow]

One more note ,after 15 psi you chokes will open up ,I made a leaver to stop this ,only down side is when the engine gets cold you have to push it a side to start the engine again.Do a pressure test and you will see it open up real bad.I even put a strong spring in and still no good .Using this method works for me.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE October 2. - Building new plumbing from the carb boots to Boost Meter, Vortech Race Bypass, Mitsubishi BOV and Malpassi Fuel Pressure Regulator.


First attempt.

Final version of my plumbing.
To the left goes the Vortech, the next one to the right is for the Boost meter, the one in the centre is for the Mitsubishi BOV and finally the one to the right is for the fuel pressure regulator.

The old pressure signal (....I'm too tired to remember ....) joint/fitting is blinded off by a piece of hose, a bolt and a few hose clamps.

 

[rxrider]

Blue Shadow - thank you for the heads up on the chocke blowing open. That one I didn't know about, I will take your advice and block it off. Explains the fat top end and the need for jetting down running it at 16 lbs the whole last season. I better watch my AFRs carefullY on my first ride and jet up if needed.

 

[TT]

Rxrider - give the signal to the Vortech between 2-3 boot. The soft spring in the Vortech can make it flutter if you take it all the way from the left. There was a topic on here last year - I think it was Mulot that had the problem. Dave and Ted. J. recomended that you gave the vacum signal for the bypass valve (Vortech) between 2-3 boot.

 

[rxrider]

Man thanks for looking after me, I haven't read about that one either That's BTW how I had it hooked up last season, will connect it in between 2-3, which mean I have to go out in my garage and redo the plumbing once more hahahaha LOL.

I'm out buying more T's and hose.

 

[TT]

For once I am give you "advice" (more of a reminder if you ask me) - it has always been the other way around! You have always taken care of me since I joined the TY-forum- and been my translator when there has been some technical english I haven't understod (remeber: IC plenum with velocity stacks) - here is one for you!

Have you and OBR sent the CAD file I sent you to water cutting. That polished "speedo replacement plate" with Yamaha logo will look awsome when you get your sled painted black I could order it for you if you need help.

By the way - what is your friend with apex/warrior planing on doing with his gas tank and you doing with the remains of the MCX kit?

 

[rxrider]

With the REV Gas tank I cannot move the speedo to the hole where the steering column used to be, the hole is not there anymore. If you look at the pics from August you will see that the tank filler neck is up there. The tank covling looks nothing like the stock one anymore. I haven't been speaking to obr lately so I don't know what he's up to

BTW - did you read about his triple crankshop powered REV build in ScooterNorge?

HAHAHA my sled is already black, got the parts from the painter today, I will post pics asap.

My friend is going with a REV gas tank as well, he will have it modified to fit the stock tank covling.

One guy from Karasjok have shown interest in the remainding parts from my turbo kit, he also wants me to get hold of the parts needed to build his RS Rage to a MCX rearmount turbo using my turbo parts and some new parts from MCX. I may also make a few buck on building it for him if he decides to go turbo.

What is my turbo parts worth in you opinion (NOK)?
Some parts are missing to make it a complete kit:
- Malpassi fuel pressure regulator
- Bosch fuel pump
- Carb inserts, helps keeping the IC in place under boost
- Head gaskets / head shim
- Plate to mount underneat the turbo to keep snow from hitting the turbo
- Hose between the pre charger and the IC have been cut to make room for the Vortech, can be joined toghether by a piece of alu tubing, else it has to be replaced.

My friend will most likely have a few turbo parts for sale later on this fall.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE October 3. - Building new plumbing from the carb boots to Boost Meter, Vortech Race Bypass, Mitsubishi BOV and Malpassi Fuel Pressure Regulator - Part III. Hood and tank covling arrived from the painter today.


The new plumbing. Thanks TT for keeping me from making a mistake

To the left goes the signal to the fuel pressure regulator, next is for the boost meter, the Vortech goes in the middle and to the right goes the Mitsubishi BOV.

The hood and the tank covling arrived from the painter today.

My sled is taking on a completely new look this season as I'm going all black except for the ski loops, hood graphics and the seat which all still will be blue.

The hood outside in broad daylight, man it's shiny black.

The hood and tank covling test installed in my sled, hood needs to be cut to fit the Wildchild and the wireing.

I have been rubbing down a few impurities in the paint with a 2000 grit paper, it feels as smooth as paper but it will not leave scratch marks in the paint. To save a few buck I decided to do this work myself. After the rubbing process I applied a stuff called Color Back Super Cleaner. It works like a super fine 4000 grit paper. Apply it, let it dry until it gets a matte surface and dry it clean with a clean rag.

In the process it removes the matt look the paint gets after beeing rubbed by the 2000 grit paper. At last I will clean the hood, install the ArcticFX bold new graphics and finally I will polish up the hood and tank covling for a mirror like finish.

Here's how the painted parts look like on my sled. Pics taken right after rubbing the parts with 2000 grit paper, a few matte spots can be seen, they are now gone.

The hood and tank covling have been cut with a Dremel power tool to fit with the WildChild steering post.

The hood and tank covling needs to be polished with some wax, will wait with polishing until I have the bold new graphics on.

I think she looks mean, or maybe she is now a he, who knows, I'll check into my sleds attitude so I will know when the snow flies.

 

[TT]

Looks perfect in black - just like mine - who said that the blue ones are the fastest ones- LOL

I can tell you at once you will not see the speedo in the OEM place - you have to move it up to the bar riser like I did. You will not have controll over the warning lights any more. I know after drivning with it at stock place last winter with the wildchild ride forward kit. In the first pics the speedo are move up as as possible in the OEM place - still not good enough to see the warning lights

Here is how mine ended up with watercut plate to cover up old holes and Speedo to the bar riser:

http://ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=57938&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

An other suggestion is to get on of those BPE plastic molded plates that Ulmer racing sells, if you want to keep the Spedoo as close to stock as possible.

 

[rxrider]

Not me LOL, I have always heard that the black ones are the fastest, had to get one myself to know if there is any thruth to the rumor

I guess you're right about that, the most important meter would be the boost meter, then the WBO2, then the Speedo, but it sure would be nice to see the speedo while riding. I will be looking into putting the speedo up at the handle bars.

Thanks for the link.

 

[kinger]

rxrider I have a extra powder lites gauge pod that bolts to the steering column if you want to use that and relocate your gauge pod up there.

Its teh rx1 gauge brackets at the bottom of the page in this link:

http://www.powderlites.com/turbokits.html

 

[rxrider]

kinger - Thanks for your offer. Which one is it?
Can the gauge pod be both be installed facing upwards in front of the steering column and downwards on the rear side of the column.... did I make any sence???

I have a boost meter, WBO2 and temp gauge to install.

Let me know, I'm interested.

EDIT: I cannot use the gauge pod, it will not fit with the REV gas tank, the filler neck is too close to the steering post. I have decided to make a new gauge pod and relocate the speedo and the other meters higher up.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE October 4. - Adapting the hood and tank covling to the Wildchild steering post.


Cleaning the wind screen, preparing it for installation. What the sticker on the windscreen says

To make the hood fit the Wildchild steering post I had to cut out a piece.

I also had to cut the plastic holding the speedo.

Because of the Wildchild steering post the stock position of the speedo cannot be used anymore as the riser block will hit the speedo on a full turn to either side.

The speedo has to be moved and a new bracket has to be made to hold the speedo in this position.

I also thought about installing it on top of the riser block, but ruled it out because it would be too vulnerable it that position.

We went to our cabin on the lake Gagga this weekend, we had snow on the ground saturday morning with ice forming close to the shores of the lake.

BTW - turbo parts are shipped from Powder Lites last Friday, can't wait to start installing.

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE October 8. - Cleaning up my garage. Boxing the MCX turbo kit, it's up for sale.


My MCX turbo kit is up for sale. I have started to box up the parts, in the process I'm making an inventory for the kit to make sure all parts are in there when it's ready to ship.

Will have to buy a few parts to complete the kit. It served me well, may it serve another RX-1 turbo well for the years to come.

 

[kinger]

How much are you asking for the kit? If you wanted the PL gauge pod to use as a guide to help make a new bracket I could send it free of charge (just pay shipping ) I have two gauge pods one with only a single gauge holder and one that will hold 3 gauges. you can take your pick if you think it will help you. The cut outs for the gauge pod to mount and the wires to come through are all there so it would be wasy to adapt and wld something to it to move it up like you want. Its up to you.

Interested in the kit once you get it put together on whats there and whats not and condition of the turbo, etc. Thanks!