rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[rxrider]

kinger - You're right, it's kinda tedious work having to cut 20-30 wires in 2 different places at each wire, dismantel the insulation for the soldering in 4 different places at each wire, then connect, solder, add new insulation

Think I spent about 4-5 hours on the job, but it's done now and I can feel the urge to wrench building up in me. Gotta take a look at the ZX-2 tonight, and repack the secondary side jackshaft bearing with new grease, maybe start cutting out my Apex seat as well

 

[Need for Speed 2]

Sorry to hear your turbo has not arrived Jan-Ove when I talk to Dave I will mention it maybe he has forgotten Looks great what you have accomplished to date. I am interested ion what you think once up and running throttle response will be crazy.

 

[TT]

About time your sled turned black - thay say that the blue ones are the fastest ones - not tru - LOL

Just let me know if you need the turbo to start fitting the down pipe/exhaust pipe. Offer still stands to borrow mine!

 

[rxrider]

Thanks Kevin, tell him my project have come to a HALT, too many things depend on me beeing able to install a turbo on top you your header. Frame has to be cut for the exhaust downpipe etc... you know the game.

I have PM'd and emailed Dave again today. Last I heard from him was on August 30th, from what he said I got the impression that he only had to finish the work on my friends stage 3 header, all other parts was ready to ship. Guess he has been swamped in work lately filling turbo kit orders.

I really hope Dave will take care of me very soon or I will have no other choise than to take my business elsewhere, not that I want to but may have to :-(

 

[rxrider]

About time your sled turned black - thay say that the blue ones are the fastest ones - not tru - LOL

Just let me know if you need the turbo to start fitting the down pipe/exhaust pipe. Offer still stands to borrow mine!

TT - Thanks again for your offer, I'll give you a call if I need it

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE September 16. - Removal of carburetor rack.


This evening the urge to wrench got to me again and I went out to the Turbo Garage to see what I could put my hands on. I got the turbo springs and billet T's yesterday so I figured it would be a good time to take the carb rack off the sled and start working on the spring and T install, but first the carbs will have to be tore down, inspected and cleaned.


Before I started the carb rack removal I had to take a few pics from rxrider's Turbo Garage.... of course some pics of a few turbos hanging around on my shelf

The carb removal procedure. This is a very easy task so I have not taken any pics of the carb rack removal, but I will describe it in words.

- Unhook any air lines from air box (depending on configuration)
- Remove airbox
- Unplug all electrics
- Loosen throttle- and chocke wires, disconnect them from the carb rack
- Loosen all 4 clamps holding the carb rack to the intake
- Unhook fuel lines from the fuel pump (or carb rack depending on configuration)
- Remove carb rack from the intake
- Use a pair of hose pliers or whatever to plug the coolant lines to prevent spilling coolant all over the place
- Remove the coolant lines from the carb rack

The carb rack can now be removed from the sled. Pack the carb rack in a towel to prevent fuel spill, remove the carb rack from the sled.


The carb rack off the sled and on the work bench ready to be disassembled. Notice the rubber plugs on the chocke shafts... they have been blown off from the turbo pressure inside the carbs. I guess I have to super glue them in place to keep them from popping out running high boost. This was never a problem running 10 lbs, at 16 they will blow off. Take a look at your sled if you run an RX-1 or RS sled past 10 lbs, my guess is they blow off at 12 lbs and over.

To be able to take the carbs apart you need to disconnect the electrics and loosen the coolant hoses going between the individual carbs in the rack. Then it's time to loosen the two 10 millimeter bolts found on the right hand side of the carb rack holding the rack together.

Carefully remove the two bolts, watch for any small part that may fall off when taking the carbs apart, there will be parts falling off so take your time and hold all parts accounted for.

The sheet I have underneat the carbs was perfectly clean prior to the opening of the carbs, MAN there was a lot of goooo in them carbs. I sprayed the carbs with electric cleaner, will go out and buy a can of carb cleaner tomorrow and give them one more treatment before blowing them clean.

As far as I came this evening.

Should I pull the carbs completely apart or would it be OK just to spray all openings, holes and jets with carb cleaner and blow clean with compressed air? Any suggestions are welcome?

 

[rxrider]

Got an email from Darren at Powderlites, my friends stage 3 header is in for ceramic coating and will be ready to ship next week

Thanks Kevin for taking care of me, your phone call to Powderlites was an important one with regards to the turbo fitting your header. Darren told me that from what you told them they will adjust the turbo to fit your header design

PL could send me my stuff right away, but I told them I'm OK with a shipping date next week.

Yooohooooo I'm a happy camper now....turbo parts .... come to daddy .... hahahahaha LOL

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE September 22. - Carburetor cleaning. Assembly of the carburetor rack.


I pulled the carbs completely in parts, here's a pic of all jetting and floats.

Coolant connectors and spacers lying around on my workbench. The first few carbs are disassembled and ready to be sprayed with carb cleaner, well actually I wasn't able to find carb cleaner around here so I bought a solvent-lube-rust_inhibitor-do it all-spray.

I did one carb at the time. After spraying all holes I let it sit for 5 minutes and then blew it clean with compressed air. There are a few parts to remove before applying compressed air, how did I find out well parts were flying around, luckily I found all parts missing. I actually had to take the last carb apart and take a look what's in there and compare to the first and second one.....puuhhhhh I found all parts around my shop.

Here's the parts that DO NOT come out of the carb until you add compressed air to it.
- Spring, o-ring and small shim from the air/fuel-screw
- small aluminum tube underneat the main jet and main jet tube


After all carbs were cleaned I assembled the carbs. As a part of the assembly I installed billet carb T's, this shold stop the T's from leaking.

I did not do the top end at this time because I have found that the carbs still leak even with the STM carb caps on. Reason why is that the carbs are pourly manufactured, they are simply not flat up on top. The STM carb caps are perfectly flat, I have tested them.
There are a few solutions to the problem.
- one by one grind the top end of the carbs on a perfectly flat surface using a very fine grit paper.
- install a o-ring in the groove on top of the carb and tighten down the STM carb caps, now you will get a good seal even if the carbs are not perfectly flat on top.
- you could always do both mods, but either one should be sufficient and keep the carbs from leaking.

Here's the carbs with the billet T's installed.

I also moved the clip position on the carb needles to the middle or #3 position.


I have three more things to work with on the carbs before they go back into my sled.
- superglue the plastic caps on the chocke levers to the carbs to keep them from blowing off the carbs when under high boost
- install the chocke rack leverage to the carbs
- install an O-ring in the groove around the top of the carb to keep the carbs from leaking from underneat the carb caps

 

[rxrider]

UPDATE September 25. - Removing weight. More wireing and soldering.


My hood will be strapped on. The stock mounting bracket is already removed from the hood. Today I also removed the cross bar up in the nose cone where the hood is usually attached, it's not needed anymore and had to go.

Gone

Weight savings so far 39.8 kgs or 87.5 lbs. With a cromoly or titanium front end, a lexan hood, a Boss seat, and a few other lightweight parts, -45 kgs or -100 lbs should be possible. Hahaha the "Ton" would only be a 0.9 ton sled LOL


I finished off the handwarmers today and plugged in all connectors, now I only need to get hold of a few black split plastic tubes to hold the wires inside.

On the 2007 bars there is a serial to parallell conversion to get more heat to the bars. I opened the insulation and cut out the excess wireing as they came with very long cable length from Yamaha.

Got an email from Powder Lites today, my friends header is arriving from ceramic coating friday morning, our order should be on it's way out their door friday or saturday at the latest, I hope. It won't be long before I get the turbo and can start making some headway on my project. Work on my sled have gone into hybernation on the lack of the new turbo, as a lot of things depends on the turbo and how and where it's mounted. Measuring of where the downpipe will exit the frame can not be made, drive shaft can not be installed, chaincase can not .... and so on.... I'm looking forward to recieve the turbo parts

 

[obr]

waiting is good. Gets you new ideas on how to mod it further. I've got a lightweight seat now for mine, and a lexan hood and under-tunnell exhaust, so I guess If I do all the other mods you've done, I'd be in the reach of 100lbs...

I'll start driving by Lax Vegas on my way to work from now on, so I hope I can make a stop at your place from time to time...not long before it starts snowing either

 

[rxrider]

You bet, when I can't wrench my mind goes spinning at idle until crazy ideas starts popping around like crazy, some of them are quite sound and get written in this post hahaha

Have you been sneaking in my notes lately hahaha... I have ideas on getting a lexan hood as well. I'm only 12.5 lbs away, a lexan hood will remove 8 lbs, a cromoly front end about the same and then I'm past 100 lbs shaved from the sled. I'm in too deep this season, the hood and front end will have to wait until next year.

 

[1CrazySledder]

Lexan hoods...huh? Better get things powder coated and shiny under there. lol

I am working with a company now for Lexan clear non-tinted side panels and hood for my Attak. Hope it works out.

On your sled, that will look great. Now I have to wait until next year to see it? Geez, man. lol

 

[rxrider]

Yeah unfortunately you will have to wait ... I'm thinking of add a special one off graphic from ArcticFX that will cover most of the clear parts much like what OSP did on their race sled.
MAN your right 1CS - I better get things tidy and shiny under the hood with a clear hood. Wonder if there are any weight savings going with lexan side covers on the RX-1? I remember having seen that once, but can't remember where...

 

[kinger]

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[rxrider]

kinger - your sled is very nice, tidy and clean under the hood. Are you saying that you have both a clear lexan hood and clear lexan side covers