rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Been away from TY for a long time..... anyway I'm back now with more.... 
My friend Odd-Steffen invented his own exhaust cut-out with adjustable opening thresholds for the boost. Quiet, trail riding and all out race.
I'm installing a MCX 290 (special edition) turbo kit in my cousins 08 Apex LTX.
I also did the MSD Launch Master and MCX Display install, even made the bracket to mount the Display to the handlebar mounting. Valve work was done by me. We didn't have the time to do the cam timing because we got the wrong parts, by now I've got the right parts in house, but this will be a summer project. I dreamt up a temporary clutch setup that seems to work perfectly even tho his rpms are a bit low in my view. He has beaten all the competition he's been up against so far. The display unit had a fault in the logging function leaving only 2.5 seconds of logging before it failed, worthless. MCX is shipping out a new Display unit, hopefully we'll get it in the next few days so we're able to tune the sled to it's full potential when it comes to boost and AFRs. At the time it's running stock MCX290 mappings.
Here's few pics of the build presented by Turbogarasjen.
I got the sled in parts..... uh something is easier but a lot is not, not when parts are missing, bummer.
Threw his engine on the work bench for valve clearance adjustments. Here's a word of advice to everyone installing a turbo kit, please check valve clearance even tho the sled is brand new, I've seen it all, even new sleds have valve clearances out of spec or too close to spec. I like to run the clearance in the upper half of the specification, intake 0.15mm-0.20mm, exhaust 0.23mm-0.25mm. Adjust to get your engine running like it's supposed to.
Valve clearance work in progress.
The turbo and exhaust pipes, and the shield over the turbo have been installed.
Valve clearance work is done and head is ready to be installed to the cylinder block.
Installing the engine into the bulkhead.
More to come.
My friend Odd-Steffen invented his own exhaust cut-out with adjustable opening thresholds for the boost. Quiet, trail riding and all out race.
I'm installing a MCX 290 (special edition) turbo kit in my cousins 08 Apex LTX.
I also did the MSD Launch Master and MCX Display install, even made the bracket to mount the Display to the handlebar mounting. Valve work was done by me. We didn't have the time to do the cam timing because we got the wrong parts, by now I've got the right parts in house, but this will be a summer project. I dreamt up a temporary clutch setup that seems to work perfectly even tho his rpms are a bit low in my view. He has beaten all the competition he's been up against so far. The display unit had a fault in the logging function leaving only 2.5 seconds of logging before it failed, worthless. MCX is shipping out a new Display unit, hopefully we'll get it in the next few days so we're able to tune the sled to it's full potential when it comes to boost and AFRs. At the time it's running stock MCX290 mappings.
Here's few pics of the build presented by Turbogarasjen.
I got the sled in parts..... uh something is easier but a lot is not, not when parts are missing, bummer.
Threw his engine on the work bench for valve clearance adjustments. Here's a word of advice to everyone installing a turbo kit, please check valve clearance even tho the sled is brand new, I've seen it all, even new sleds have valve clearances out of spec or too close to spec. I like to run the clearance in the upper half of the specification, intake 0.15mm-0.20mm, exhaust 0.23mm-0.25mm. Adjust to get your engine running like it's supposed to.
Valve clearance work in progress.
The turbo and exhaust pipes, and the shield over the turbo have been installed.
Valve clearance work is done and head is ready to be installed to the cylinder block.
Installing the engine into the bulkhead.
More to come.
kinger
VIP Member
Glad your back!!!!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Thanks buddy
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
More work done on my cousins sled. I forgot to say that his sled has been up and running for a while now working just great
OK - here's the rest of my work on his sled.
Turbo and shielding done.
Intercooler installed.
MCX Display Unit installed.
The MCX Display Unit is a great help when tuning the sled, both mappings and clutching. It also has a logging function that is priceless when tuning, it'a great help analysing the data before making adjustments to the mappings and clutching. You can toggle between different views to watch while riding..... on a turbo sled at WOT it's about impossible to get any info from the Display Unit live.... been there done that. A few of the available views.
AFR
MAP - Measured Actual Pressure, 100 = Atmospheric Normal Pressure
There's a few combined views as well.
The Display Unit has a USB cable for attachment to a computer. Laptops are great to use.
The sled is done
We had a box of wine the last night of wrenching..... the testride the coming day was postponed LOL
Before handing over the sled to it's owner I rode it to check all systems. The sled ran just great, checked for leaks and there were non. MSD Launch Master didn't work, adjusted and started working flawlessly. MSD Display Logging didn't work, new Display on it's way to the owner from MCX.
The initial test ride is done and I'm checking for oil leaks back at the turbo.
OK - here's the rest of my work on his sled.
Turbo and shielding done.
Intercooler installed.
MCX Display Unit installed.
The MCX Display Unit is a great help when tuning the sled, both mappings and clutching. It also has a logging function that is priceless when tuning, it'a great help analysing the data before making adjustments to the mappings and clutching. You can toggle between different views to watch while riding..... on a turbo sled at WOT it's about impossible to get any info from the Display Unit live.... been there done that. A few of the available views.
AFR
MAP - Measured Actual Pressure, 100 = Atmospheric Normal Pressure
There's a few combined views as well.
The Display Unit has a USB cable for attachment to a computer. Laptops are great to use.
The sled is done
We had a box of wine the last night of wrenching..... the testride the coming day was postponed LOL
Before handing over the sled to it's owner I rode it to check all systems. The sled ran just great, checked for leaks and there were non. MSD Launch Master didn't work, adjusted and started working flawlessly. MSD Display Logging didn't work, new Display on it's way to the owner from MCX.
The initial test ride is done and I'm checking for oil leaks back at the turbo.
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2004
- Messages
- 1,752
- Location
- La Salle MB
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2009 Yamaha Nytro RTX SE
Wicked project! 
kinger
VIP Member
How does the seat fasten on that MCX sled?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
In front of the seat we added a simple nylon strap that goes inside the plastic bottom of the seat and underneat the tank. Lift the tank up a little, put the seat in place, get the strap in place, install the tank, tighten the strap, install bolts at the rear of the seat to mount it to the frame, done. Our modified seats is not nearly as loosely attached as the stock seats
If you look thru the index on page 1 you will find how I did it on my sled, it's done the same way as with the MCX sled.
If you look thru the index on page 1 you will find how I did it on my sled, it's done the same way as with the MCX sled.
kinger
VIP Member
Awesome I think I will do something similiar I was just wondering if you had to cut the seat to fit?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Running a REV fuel tank, you will have to cut the seat to make room for the tank. The best solution we found was to tie down the front end of the seat with a strap underneat the tank, then make the rear mounting and attach it to the frame. On the MCX we used the stock thread inserts that once held the stock plastics in place. Running a under seat turbo like in my cousins MCX powered sled he also had to cut the seat to make room for the turbo, exhaust and the silencer. The MCX kit comes with all parts necessary, all you have to do in cut the seat and install a new aluminum seat bottom.
kinger
VIP Member
Perfect that is what I was wondering about. Thanks!!!
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update April 19. Testriding. Installing water temp gauge.
She worked pretty good all easter without any tuning whatsoever. I have replaced the Meth diode, have not ridden it yet. With the meth working I will up the boost a lot. At 13 lbs of boost I'm running 11.2 AFR WOT, she is spot on at engagement, in cruise, in midrange at 0 and 5 lbs of boost, except WOT. Also I have a lean spot driving at or slightly above engagement rpms with AFR from 15 to 17, some lean popping at 17. I'm tired of rejet, going to make a restriction on the line going to the float bowls, adjustable if possible using a valve of some sort.
I finally got the time to install my water temp gauge. I already had the temp sensor pipe installed on the coolant hose underneat the thermostat housing. I also had all wireing hooked up to the gauge. It took me quite a while to figure out where to put the gauge, luckily I already had a single gauge pod laying around. First I decided to put it on the left hand side of the speedo gauge, there's already was a hole behind the speedo to route wireing through. I added double sided tape on the gauge stand and started to find a place to attach it, when I found the right position the gauge face was 30 deg out of straight. Removed the gauge from the pod, drilled new holes for the gauge bolts on the rear of the pod and reinstalled the gauge, now the gauge face was perfect. Out came the superglue.... I pressed the gauge down to make the double sided tape stick, then I added superglue around the edges of the gauge pod stand to secure it to the dash plastics, it worked like a dream. I let the superglue dry for a while before connecting power, light, ground and sensor.
Here's a pic of the temp gauge installed.
Desperately need to get the time to tune..... I know I've got all winter, but I still haven't got the time.....
She worked pretty good all easter without any tuning whatsoever. I have replaced the Meth diode, have not ridden it yet. With the meth working I will up the boost a lot. At 13 lbs of boost I'm running 11.2 AFR WOT, she is spot on at engagement, in cruise, in midrange at 0 and 5 lbs of boost, except WOT. Also I have a lean spot driving at or slightly above engagement rpms with AFR from 15 to 17, some lean popping at 17. I'm tired of rejet, going to make a restriction on the line going to the float bowls, adjustable if possible using a valve of some sort.
I finally got the time to install my water temp gauge. I already had the temp sensor pipe installed on the coolant hose underneat the thermostat housing. I also had all wireing hooked up to the gauge. It took me quite a while to figure out where to put the gauge, luckily I already had a single gauge pod laying around. First I decided to put it on the left hand side of the speedo gauge, there's already was a hole behind the speedo to route wireing through. I added double sided tape on the gauge stand and started to find a place to attach it, when I found the right position the gauge face was 30 deg out of straight. Removed the gauge from the pod, drilled new holes for the gauge bolts on the rear of the pod and reinstalled the gauge, now the gauge face was perfect. Out came the superglue.... I pressed the gauge down to make the double sided tape stick, then I added superglue around the edges of the gauge pod stand to secure it to the dash plastics, it worked like a dream. I let the superglue dry for a while before connecting power, light, ground and sensor.
Here's a pic of the temp gauge installed.
Desperately need to get the time to tune..... I know I've got all winter, but I still haven't got the time.....
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update April 26. - Installing restrictor on float bowl pressure signal line. Didn't work :-(
I found the valve I was looking for in a plummer shop, gas stations didn't have it, autoshops neither, parts and tools shops neither, but the plummer guys had any valve you could wish for. I bought one that fits a thin copper line that will fit inside the pressure signal line going from the Intercooler to the Float Bowls.
Here's pic of the parts I bought. Two short pieces of copper line and the adjustable control valve.
I loosened the line going into the T going to the float bowls. I installed one of the copper pipes into the pressure signal line. I made a new pressure signal line to go from the valve to the T going to the float bowls and installed the second piece of copper pipe to go into the control valve. I joined the copper pipes with the control valve and tighten down the nuts holding the copper pipes in place. Last work was to zip-tie the valve to my turbo coolant hose.
It's done. My engine bay have turned into a snake nest.
Here's a overview of what's underneat my hood.
Can't wait to test how the valve works. I hope to be able to reduce pressure going to the float bowls thus leaning out the rich AFRs at WOT, I'm sick and tired of changing jets. If reducing pressure by restricting flow won't work I could always redo the valve setup and make it as an adjustable pitot valve and bleed off pressure to reduce float bowl pressure thus leaning out my rich top end.
Either way I win LOL
I found the valve I was looking for in a plummer shop, gas stations didn't have it, autoshops neither, parts and tools shops neither, but the plummer guys had any valve you could wish for. I bought one that fits a thin copper line that will fit inside the pressure signal line going from the Intercooler to the Float Bowls.
Here's pic of the parts I bought. Two short pieces of copper line and the adjustable control valve.
I loosened the line going into the T going to the float bowls. I installed one of the copper pipes into the pressure signal line. I made a new pressure signal line to go from the valve to the T going to the float bowls and installed the second piece of copper pipe to go into the control valve. I joined the copper pipes with the control valve and tighten down the nuts holding the copper pipes in place. Last work was to zip-tie the valve to my turbo coolant hose.
It's done. My engine bay have turned into a snake nest.
Here's a overview of what's underneat my hood.
Can't wait to test how the valve works. I hope to be able to reduce pressure going to the float bowls thus leaning out the rich AFRs at WOT, I'm sick and tired of changing jets. If reducing pressure by restricting flow won't work I could always redo the valve setup and make it as an adjustable pitot valve and bleed off pressure to reduce float bowl pressure thus leaning out my rich top end.
Either way I win LOL
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I will start tuning for max power this friday night and continue saturday and sunday. I hope to bring it up to 22 lbs and tune the clutches accordingly. I will have to adjust meth flow, set the valve adjusting float bowl pressure to get the proper WOT AFRs, adjust the boost level to the max.
More to come......
More to come......
kinger
VIP Member
Woo hoo Hold on!!!!
