rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[rxrider]

Update - February 5. - Ski-Doo 1200 MCX180 turbo install.


Got the turbo kit yesterday, what I need now is the sled

Package from MCX ready to be opened, late Xmas around Turbogarasjen.com

We have Mack Afterski Beer, we need After Sled Beer as well This is a great beer from the Northernmost Brewery on the planet.

Started unpacking the boxes, here's all parts in the MCX180 kit on the workbench.

I read the install manual and started prefabricating the turbo system, I mounted all part possible without the sled present. I hope the owner will show up soon with the sled so I can make some progress on the turbo install LOL.

Prefabrication started.

Monted the charge tubes.

Mounted silicone hose and rubber mounts to the intercooler.

Mounting oil feed and return lines to the turbo.

Mounted heat shield to the oil return line.

I've did all I can with the sled absent, owner said he will deliver his sled after this weekends rides, sunday evening I suppose. I will start installation immediately. More pics to come.

 

[aja636]

Looking back on your build, How do you like that big ole' Tial Blow Off Valve? Thinking of one for my Z1. Tried the Turbo XS and not a fan of the plunger type BOV's.

 

[rxrider]

I have no more turbo flutter, so something changed The TiAL must be doing it's thing.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 6-9. - Ski-Doo 1200 MCX180 turbo install.


Ski-Doo 1200 MCX180 turbo install continues...


The sled is in beeing stripped down for the turbo install.

The header is removed, it's going to be welded onto a MCX pipe going to the turbo.

The kit includes a jig for welding the stock header onto the MCX turbo inlet pipe.

Installing oil feed line for the turbo. It's installed where the oil pressure sensor used to be. The oil pressure sensor is installed on the end of the oil feed adaptor.

Oil return barb installed on the engine block.

Insulating the oil feed line.

Insulating the header pipe.

The header is installed and all lines close to the header is insulated to prevent heat from destroying the lines.

Oil return line installed to the barb on the front side of the engine block.

Turbo, air filter, boost controller and second oil return line installed.

Don't be shy on insulation, I'm not as you can see. The reason I do this is to prevent sled from burning down. I have seen that happen on a sled that were not properly insulated and hoses were too close to heat. I install the water and oil lines as far away as possible from the turbo header and exhaust turbine, and as a precaution I insulate the lines with at least two layers of heat resistant and heat reflective inslation.

Intercooler and charge tube installed.

Modifying the throttle body. A barb for a pressure/vacuum line is to be installed on the intake side of the butterfly inside the throttle housing.

This is how the charge tube going to the IC is connected to the throttle body. One L-clamp on each side of the charge tube is holding it to the throttle body.

The charge tube installed.

New heavier weight pins are required. The clutch has to be split in half and the new pins installed. When joined back together the clutch has to be put in ton-press and pressed with a force of 5000 Kilograms.

Turbo kit is mostly done.

The air filter has to be modified. Its sole purpose is to serve as a place to install the head light pod and other plastic panels.

The air filter is cut to fit the turbo kit and installed back in the sled.

After installing the fuel tank I added 20 liters of 98 octane, checked the oil and coolant levels, then I started up the engine, it fired up right away.

I will be back with more turbo projects ASAP

 

[TT]

Thanks for sharing the picks of this install. I am helping out a friend with the same kit. The kit is defenatly missing heat shielding material both for the header and oil return lines.

I did not like the closeness of the oil return line from the turbo to the cranckcase and the header. I looked to near the header running it on the PTO side of the steering coloum. What are your thoughts of running the oil return hose on the other side of the steering colum? Runing under the header will make it dry out and crack over time in my opinion. But I am not sure it will drain good enough with a loop on the other side of the steering colum. We see tomorrow when we do a try fitment with the turbo installed.

Thanks again for sharing the pics buddy)))

 

[rxrider]

TT - Make sure you secure the oil return line going under the turbo to the chassis. I used "pantentband" a steel band with a lot of holes in it. Then I riveted the band and hose to the chassis as far to the left as the oil line would go.
I have double layers of heat shielding insulation all the way from the motor to the turbo. In addition to the MCX insulation (which is nothing IMO) I added aircraft grade insulation materials, it's a thick woven fabric that will not burn no matter what, it has great heat shielding properties, and it's coated with aluminum reflective shield on one side. Great stuff. I leave the outer layer a little loose as air is a great insulator as well. With the header wrap I do not think the oil line will be damaged. I have seen XP1200s with MCX turbo kits burn down before..... it wasn't insulated like what I do. Without proper insulation it will die, it's only a matter of time.

 

[rxrider]

Update - February 23-27. - FX Nytro MCX180 turbo install.


A new project sled is done. First time I'm installing turbo on a FX Nytro
On this sled the goal was to have a trail sled more or less. In addition to the MCX180 turbo kit I installed a tunnel heat exchanger kit from Yamaha, the same kit that comes stock with FX Nytro Mountain. To put the extra power to the ground I installed a set of SuperTips 50YX clutch weights.


The sled to be turboed.

The turbokit.

Stripping down the sled.

The oil tank has to be removed to make room for installing the MCX oil return pump.

The steering colum has to be removed and lifted aside.

Removing the oil pressure sensor. An adaptor is to be installed for the oil feed line to the turbo, the oil pressure sensor will be installed on the end of the adaptor.

MCX oil return pump installed and connected to the crankshaft.

It really easy to install the FX Nytro Mountain tunnel heat exchanger kit. Drain the coolant. Drill out a few rivets, remove a few hoses and replace them with new ones coming with the kit.

Rivet the heat exchanger to the tunnel, connect the hoses and your all done.

Refill coolant. Bleed the system for air.


The stock header pipe has to be cut before welding it to a connector pipe attached to the turbo. There is an optional jig to be bought... buy it, it's much easier with a jig, else you have to install the turbo, muffler and all pipes and spot weld the parts in place, then you have to remove everything and get the header pipe and connector pipe properly welded. Now you can install the turbo for real. The Ski-Doo MCX180 kit comes with a jig.... why not the FX Nytro MCX180????? go figure.....

Drill a hole in the frame, drill out a rivet in the tunnel and secure the pre cooler / charge tube to the tunnel with a bolt and nut.

Install the cross member to hold the turbo.

Install a steel bracket that will be installed onto the cross member.

Do a mockup install of the turbo, exhaust header, connector pipe, muffler.
When done spot weld the exhaust header to the connector pipe going to the turbo.

Installed the MCX EFI controller and the pressure/vacuum hoses.

Unhook the large grey connectors, plug the MCX EFI controller inline.

Install the plenum chamber (air box) and silicone hose coming from the pre cooler charge tube. Connect all pipes from the engine to the air box.

With all oil hoses connected to the turbo I insulated every single on of then with double layers of insulation. What MCX provieds is not enough by far IMO. I added an extra layer of an aircraft grade insulation material that cannot burn, is a great insulator and it has a reflective layer of aluminum on the outside to reflect heat away. I also installed the shield keeping heat away fromt he air filter.

Installed the air filter and tail light.

Installed the electronic boost controller. I installed it as high up as possible to prevent it for beeing packed in ice freezing up.

Installed the shield over the turbo, exhaust and muffler.

Added coolant and engine oil and started up the engine. Ran it for a while and checked coolant and oil levels. Installed SuperTips clutch weights. Took the sled for a spin. Worked great

This modification was done by the owner of the sled. I had the parts on the shelf. He did this mod because the MCX hose was too short and the air filter got clogged up with snow in the deep. The extension kept the air filter from getting clogged up, great mod you came up with Thor-Jørgen

 

[dirk_03]

TT - Make sure you secure the oil return line going under the turbo to the chassis. I used "pantentband" a steel band with a lot of holes in it. Then I riveted the band and hose to the chassis as far to the left as the oil line would go.
I have double layers of heat shielding insulation all the way from the motor to the turbo. In addition to the MCX insulation (which is nothing IMO) I added aircraft grade insulation materials, it's a thick woven fabric that will not burn no matter what, it has great heat shielding properties, and it's coated with aluminum reflective shield on one side. Great stuff. I leave the outer layer a little loose as air is a great insulator as well. With the header wrap I do not think the oil line will be damaged. I have seen XP1200s with MCX turbo kits burn down before..... it wasn't insulated like what I do. Without proper insulation it will die, it's only a matter of time.

What is the brand name of the header wrap that you are using. My header gets red hot and I want to wrap it. But At red hot it needs to be gooooood wrap.

 

[rxrider]

The fabric have no brand name on it. Check at an aero club, pilots should know about the insulation material.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 16. - Tuning MCX Computer on a 08 Apex LTX.


This slead already had the MCX Display Unit installed which made it a lot easier to tune.

A few runs to log a baseline. Downloaded the log file. Imported it into a Excel spreadsheet. Analysed the log file and took notice of what, where and how much to change in the boost and fuel table files.

I use the MegaTune software when adjusting boost and fuel maps on MCX turboed sleds. What do you do for a friend in need LOL.

With the added power and throttle response from the tune up I have to change clutching quite a bit to keep it off the rev limiter, still running it on the safe side on premium pump fuel, 98 octane (Europe). This sled has the MCX shim installed.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 25. - Turbo Garage custom project sled coming to life.


Finally we had the time to finish off our custom project sled, the owner had a few day off (at last and worked hard to get it up and running.


Before he started I had done quite a bit of work on the sled, what do you do to help out a friend... LOL.

I even had the IC installed before he could start finishing off his great machine.

Hahahaha but I left the dirty parts as you can see, he had to install the exhaust himself

With all systems connected he filled up the sled with premium 98 octane gasoline and turned the key. It started up right away. MAN we were a happy bunch of guys at the Turbo Garage that evening. After hundreds of hours restoring the sled after a nasty fire last year where the sled was close to be reduced to ash; it's now up and running.

The sled is still beeing tuned. Both the STM Rage 8 primary clutch and big injectors will need loads of tuning before we can let it rock at 22 lbs as planned, on pump premium fuel, running 10:1 compression. We crazy? Probably, but we're doing it anyway. Here's what it looks like completely done and ready to ride.

More to come on the project sled.

 

[sonds]

Excellent wright up and photos..

Thank you!

 

[TT]

Good to see OS Knutsen sled up and running again - good job

 

[rxrider]

Thanks guys. Looking forward to see that sled at perfect tune under full power. Watch out for the new snow blower.

 

[rxrider]

Update - March 29. - 2011 Apex MCX 290 Turbo Project.


The last few days I've had the opportunity to looking into an Apex 2011 getting a MCX 290 turbo kit installed.

The sled in stock form.

The turbo kit unpacked on the workbench, the sled is ready to get torn apart.

The new MCX IC is a lot larger than the previous ones, and it doesn't contain extra injectors.

The sled is coming apart.

The stock exhaust shielding makes the midmount (MCX style) a bit easier. No cutting of stock seat necessary. The heat shield and tunnel will have to be cut to make the turbo, exhaust and silencer fit.

Preparing the workbench before working on the cylinder head.

Detaching fuel rail from the cylinder head.

Removed cylinder head.

Cleaned the cylinder surfaces for old gasket residue.

Installing the cams. With cylinder 1 and 4 at TDC the cam dots is supposed to line up perfectly. It will not line up perfectly with a thick head shim installed and the intake cam gear slotted. Anyway, here's what it's supposed to look like when installed correctly.

Exhaust cam.

Intake cam.

MCX precooler to the left, Yamaha EXUP and exhaust tubes to the right.

Hole cut to the left of the exhaust headers for the precooler.

Installing exhaust headers.

Installing silicone charge tube going in between the precooler and the IC.

Fuel rail installed.

The turbo kit uses the stock fuel injectors. No extra injectors needed.

IC installed. Odd-Steffen, my good friend and owner of the Turbo Garage project sled, is inspecting my work. He helped me out a bit before he returned to work on our project sled.

Tunnel cut to make space for the turbo and stuff.

Fuel tank, turbo system, silencer, and air filter installed.

Fire in the hole. Bummer it's not running right. WHAT's UP. I had code 14 flashing by, too rich at idle, black smoke rich that is.

The stock exhaust heat shield had to be modified.

The sled is coming together.

First test ride done, I have a low to no idle problem.

Luckily my good friend Jan Ole (co-owner of the local Yamaha dealership) and our friend Niclas Ottoson (famous Swedish drag racer) came by and helped me out troubleshooting. We checked everything we could think of to no avail, when leaving Niclas said it was unlikely but I should check the MCX check valve that is installed in front of the stock MAP sensor. I did check it and guess what... the valve was installed in the wrong direction. The valve comes pre-installed from MCX and goes on the pressure/vacuum piping, at production it went in the wrong way. I turned the valve 180 degrees and problem was gone.


Second test ride. Problem solved. Now I have a problem keeping the sled off the limiter. New clutch weights and Helix installed and it's still kicking into the limiter. Will have to change the helix and secondary spring to fix the problem, and if that ain't enough I will have to install a taller top gear in the chain case to make it hook better. Right now the power comes on too fast for the clutches (as they are now) to react.

All in all, I'm pretty happy with how the sled runs.