helmic
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 408
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- Bathurst N.B. CANADA
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
MCXpress
Witch bov should I change the one on the charge tub or the one on the intercooler.And to make sure the turbo is getting oil do I crack the bolt at the turbo or at the MCX oil pump.There is very little oil in the system right now so it might take a little longer to see it come out were I bleed it.Also would you recommand the MCX computer display to get to change the boost or just send the MCX box to get reprogram.Right now I have two head gasket and the MCXpress shim,(gasket shim gasket)going to be running 91 octan,and when in a jam will run 87 octan with torco fuel accelerater.Running the HP at the preset setting of 260 now but would like to go 290 every now and then.That is why I would like to know about the MCXpress computer display.
Cheers Perry...
Witch bov should I change the one on the charge tub or the one on the intercooler.And to make sure the turbo is getting oil do I crack the bolt at the turbo or at the MCX oil pump.There is very little oil in the system right now so it might take a little longer to see it come out were I bleed it.Also would you recommand the MCX computer display to get to change the boost or just send the MCX box to get reprogram.Right now I have two head gasket and the MCXpress shim,(gasket shim gasket)going to be running 91 octan,and when in a jam will run 87 octan with torco fuel accelerater.Running the HP at the preset setting of 260 now but would like to go 290 every now and then.That is why I would like to know about the MCXpress computer display.
Cheers Perry...
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
On the charge tube.
At the turbo.
The MCX Display computer for the logging capabilities, it's a great asset when tuning for perfection, boost, fuel and clutching as well.
At the turbo.
The MCX Display computer for the logging capabilities, it's a great asset when tuning for perfection, boost, fuel and clutching as well.
helmic
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Bathurst N.B. CANADA
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
MCXpress
So I just change the black plastic one.Do I need to do any adjustements to this new BOV or just install it as is.
So I just change the black plastic one.Do I need to do any adjustements to this new BOV or just install it as is.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
The vortech comes preadjusted, no need to touch anything, the same goes for the TiAL but you will have to decide on what spring to order with the valve. The Vortech is plug and play and works up to 18 lbs.
helmic
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Bathurst N.B. CANADA
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
MCXpress
One more question,The instructions says to add a extra fuel pump if you up the boost.Can I install a extra pump inline with the stock pump and still run 260hp to be safe at high speed or do I need to remove the stock one in the tank.The instructions says to add a fuel pump wouldn't that mean to leave the stock one in the tank and add one.Or do I need to remove the one in the tank.
One more question,The instructions says to add a extra fuel pump if you up the boost.Can I install a extra pump inline with the stock pump and still run 260hp to be safe at high speed or do I need to remove the stock one in the tank.The instructions says to add a fuel pump wouldn't that mean to leave the stock one in the tank and add one.Or do I need to remove the one in the tank.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
You have to remove the pump in the tank if you go with a high capacity inline pump. Not needed unless you go past 14 lbs of boost.
kinger
VIP Member
My stocker ran out at 11 psi not 14 psi like most have wrote on this board. FYI
helmic
Expert
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- Nov 10, 2008
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- Location
- Bathurst N.B. CANADA
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
pump
Any tread out there to show the work to be done to go from stock fuel pump to in line pump.The one I have is a bosch in line pump.
Any tread out there to show the work to be done to go from stock fuel pump to in line pump.The one I have is a bosch in line pump.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 60
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Your pump must have started to fade..... they do over time.... I would recommend the inline pump if your ever decide to up the boost at a later stage, running it at 260 I wouldn't worry about it until your AFR meter tells you you're engine is starving for fuel at top boost running at wot.
helmic
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Bathurst N.B. CANADA
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
Pump
How much pressure should I have at the pumps outlet so I can check its efficiency.
How much pressure should I have at the pumps outlet so I can check its efficiency.
kinger
VIP Member
I agree with rxrider just ride it and see if the AFR dictates you need one first.
If so I put together a nice how to on installing the pump with lots of picts, just need to search for it. I think its in my garage thread on like page 2 but not sure.
If so I put together a nice how to on installing the pump with lots of picts, just need to search for it. I think its in my garage thread on like page 2 but not sure.
helmic
Expert
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 408
- Location
- Bathurst N.B. CANADA
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Apex SE STUDED,PC5,D&D Performance Exhaust,MAX-REV intakes,D&D BullsEyes,Ulmer clutch kit.Yurbo coming soon!!!
pump
So what would be a good AFR at WOT with this kit.So I have a base line.
So what would be a good AFR at WOT with this kit.So I have a base line.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - November 25. - Installing speedo side drive shaft bearing. Installing chain case and cover. Changing engine oil.
Close to 2 months since my last update. I can tell there have not been any work done since September. Finally I'm done working on the house, wifey is happy and so am I, we're very pleased with the end result
And now I've finally got the time to work on my sled 
The Camoplast Crossover 144x1.5x15 track is in place, the drive shaft is on, now it's time to install a new speedo side drive shaft bearing. Here's a pic of the bearing with the partno on the box.
Installed the bearing, installed the plate holding it in place, torked down the bolts, installed the speedo sender and picup, installed the two set screws holding the bearing to the drive shaft. Installed secondary clutch, clutch cover, a new drive belt.
Finally I installed the side cover.
Drained the engine oil, both from the oil tank and from the bottom plug underneat the motor.
I changed out the oil hoses going to the top of oil tank. I left the dipstick open to speed up drainage of the oil tank. Chaincase cover was installed and chain case oil filled in, as usual I went with 350 ml of Yamalube 4S engine oil. Adjusted the chain finger tight. I had the brake disc and calipers installed.
I installed the side cover.
I filled up the oil tank with 2 liters (quarts) of Yamalube 4S 0-30w engine oil. Will have to start up the engine before topping off the oil tank. Before cranking over the engine the battry will get a proper charging, secured the terminals, ready to start the charger.
The battery was down half way since May, not bad for a 10aH battery.
The charger cycled in and out of the 1/4 and 1/2 leds a few times before settling at 1/2 and started charging the battery.
I still have a few more installs before it's rideable.
The ZX-2 have to get it's sliders cut to lengt and the aluminum plate that broke will have to be replaced. Then the skid is to be installed in my sled.
I have to adjust needles, I've tried dropping them one notch.... toooo lean in the midrange. Then I tried raising them one notch.... tooooo fat in the midrange. I'm moving them back to stock middle position and call it the day... I can assure you that I will never ever move the needles anymore as the middle position is about as good as it gets.
More to come, I'm finally back at it working on my sleds.
Close to 2 months since my last update. I can tell there have not been any work done since September. Finally I'm done working on the house, wifey is happy and so am I, we're very pleased with the end result
And now I've finally got the time to work on my sled
The Camoplast Crossover 144x1.5x15 track is in place, the drive shaft is on, now it's time to install a new speedo side drive shaft bearing. Here's a pic of the bearing with the partno on the box.
Installed the bearing, installed the plate holding it in place, torked down the bolts, installed the speedo sender and picup, installed the two set screws holding the bearing to the drive shaft. Installed secondary clutch, clutch cover, a new drive belt.
Finally I installed the side cover.
Drained the engine oil, both from the oil tank and from the bottom plug underneat the motor.
I changed out the oil hoses going to the top of oil tank. I left the dipstick open to speed up drainage of the oil tank. Chaincase cover was installed and chain case oil filled in, as usual I went with 350 ml of Yamalube 4S engine oil. Adjusted the chain finger tight. I had the brake disc and calipers installed.
I installed the side cover.
I filled up the oil tank with 2 liters (quarts) of Yamalube 4S 0-30w engine oil. Will have to start up the engine before topping off the oil tank. Before cranking over the engine the battry will get a proper charging, secured the terminals, ready to start the charger.
The battery was down half way since May, not bad for a 10aH battery.
The charger cycled in and out of the 1/4 and 1/2 leds a few times before settling at 1/2 and started charging the battery.
I still have a few more installs before it's rideable.
The ZX-2 have to get it's sliders cut to lengt and the aluminum plate that broke will have to be replaced. Then the skid is to be installed in my sled.
I have to adjust needles, I've tried dropping them one notch.... toooo lean in the midrange. Then I tried raising them one notch.... tooooo fat in the midrange. I'm moving them back to stock middle position and call it the day... I can assure you that I will never ever move the needles anymore as the middle position is about as good as it gets.
More to come, I'm finally back at it working on my sleds.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Re: pump
With any kit here's what to shoot for
Idle=14.5-15.0 afr
Engagement=13.5 afr
0 lbs=13.0 afr
5 lbs= 12.5 afr
10 lbs and higher=11.8-12.0 afr
If you can tune in these afr's you will have a pretty darn good fuel curve, any machine.
helmic said:
With any kit here's what to shoot for
Idle=14.5-15.0 afr
Engagement=13.5 afr
0 lbs=13.0 afr
5 lbs= 12.5 afr
10 lbs and higher=11.8-12.0 afr
If you can tune in these afr's you will have a pretty darn good fuel curve, any machine.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - December 10-13. - Installing ZX-2 144" skid. Changing oil. Installing a new seat on my 08 Apex RTX. Repairing damaged wireing.
With some help from a friend the skid went in quick and easy. Loctite'd the bolts and tighthened them to 60Nm. Adjusted the track fairly tight as it will stretch a bit the first few 100s kilometers.
The new 144" ZX-2 skid installed in the sled. I'm looking forward to ride it with the new skid length and track.
Changing the oil, refilling with new fresh Yamalube 4S 0w-30.
Time to run the engine to top off the oil level.
I have to install an extra BOV to help out the Vortech which is past capacity at 22 lbs of boost. Installing a new TiAL Q 50mm.
First I thought about installing it on the bend in front of the IC core.
But I changed my mind and are now going to install it on the chamber in front of the IC core. The IC and mounting tube have been delivered to the welder, hoping to pic it up in a few days time.
When the IC is done and installed; last piece of work is changing needle clip position. Then the shakedown or beta-testing will start.
I have installed a new seat on my 08 Apex RTX. Got it from my dealer downtown.
I have left to change the engine oil, chaincase oil, and grease up bearings and stuff.
I have started to work on my friends sled. It caught fire at the end of last season, luckily my friend was able to put of the fire before it made unrepearable damage to his sled.
I have started to rip the burnt wireing apart. The fire did burn away the ignition key switch and an array of relays that powered all systems on his sled.
I have removed seat, gas tank, and everything that would have been in my way while working on the wireing.
In this pic I have started to repair the wireing. Some parts of the wireing have been cut out and replaced. Some connector have been cut off and the wires have been hardwired and have become part of the main wireing harness.
Most wireing have been acounted for and there's a few more to change out, a few connectors are missing, I have an defective harness to cut connector from so it's only work before the wireing are soldered back together.
More to come.
With some help from a friend the skid went in quick and easy. Loctite'd the bolts and tighthened them to 60Nm. Adjusted the track fairly tight as it will stretch a bit the first few 100s kilometers.
The new 144" ZX-2 skid installed in the sled. I'm looking forward to ride it with the new skid length and track.
Changing the oil, refilling with new fresh Yamalube 4S 0w-30.
Time to run the engine to top off the oil level.
I have to install an extra BOV to help out the Vortech which is past capacity at 22 lbs of boost. Installing a new TiAL Q 50mm.
First I thought about installing it on the bend in front of the IC core.
But I changed my mind and are now going to install it on the chamber in front of the IC core. The IC and mounting tube have been delivered to the welder, hoping to pic it up in a few days time.
When the IC is done and installed; last piece of work is changing needle clip position. Then the shakedown or beta-testing will start.
I have installed a new seat on my 08 Apex RTX. Got it from my dealer downtown.
I have left to change the engine oil, chaincase oil, and grease up bearings and stuff.
I have started to work on my friends sled. It caught fire at the end of last season, luckily my friend was able to put of the fire before it made unrepearable damage to his sled.
I have started to rip the burnt wireing apart. The fire did burn away the ignition key switch and an array of relays that powered all systems on his sled.
I have removed seat, gas tank, and everything that would have been in my way while working on the wireing.
In this pic I have started to repair the wireing. Some parts of the wireing have been cut out and replaced. Some connector have been cut off and the wires have been hardwired and have become part of the main wireing harness.
Most wireing have been acounted for and there's a few more to change out, a few connectors are missing, I have an defective harness to cut connector from so it's only work before the wireing are soldered back together.
More to come.
