Irv
TY 4 Stroke God
- Joined
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- 3,778
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- 60
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- ONT. Canada
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- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2008 40th Anniversary Vector.
1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Awesome work Rx, just curious what sort of money you have into these sleds?
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
They are not all mine, wifey would have killed me slowly
I help out friends and others with their install, that's what it is.
I have a few sleds worth into my black Baby tho, the 03 custom RX-1 turbo is nothing even close to stock, well... the front bulkhead is still stock LOL.
I help out friends and others with their install, that's what it is.
I have a few sleds worth into my black Baby tho, the 03 custom RX-1 turbo is nothing even close to stock, well... the front bulkhead is still stock LOL.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 7,355
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Well no not even the front bulkhead is stock, it's customized to take the R1 MC battery down in the hole in front of the ECU.
dirkdiggler
Suspended
I was reading your post. Great job on the Installs. How much power are you running on this sled? I see your having clutching problems. I see you where thinking about making secondary changes. In regard to RPM and rev-limter you should be adding more weight to the Primary Clutch.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
MCX290 = at least 290 HP, MCX doesn't add a correction factor when they run it on the dyno. Most dyno testing are made spring and summer, so what you get is at least as advertised.
Thank you for your tip on clutching.
I'm maxed out on the clutch weights, thats why I need a helix with a steeper start angle to keep her off the rev limiter. If this were my sled I've changed the rollers to 14.5 millimeter as well to get better grip. That's what I run in my own trail unlimited turbo sled.
Here's what I do for 350 HP
Primary Dalton Black/Green 57-129 kgs
14.5 millimeter rollers
STs 60Y weights with 14-8-2 inner-mid-outer
Secondary Dalton Red with a Dalton 56-46 Helix at 80 degree.
It goes 10000 off the line, 10800-10900 while spinning until she slows down to 10500 when hooking up and stays there until it runs out of gear at 150 mph speedo.
I've been clutching sleds for the last 15 years, both trail, trail unlimited (250-450 HP range) and dragracing 660 ft sanctioned racing in stock 800 class, I'm not a racer just one of the crew members way back in late 90s and early 2000s.
Thank you for your tip on clutching.
I'm maxed out on the clutch weights, thats why I need a helix with a steeper start angle to keep her off the rev limiter. If this were my sled I've changed the rollers to 14.5 millimeter as well to get better grip. That's what I run in my own trail unlimited turbo sled.
Here's what I do for 350 HP
Primary Dalton Black/Green 57-129 kgs
14.5 millimeter rollers
STs 60Y weights with 14-8-2 inner-mid-outer
Secondary Dalton Red with a Dalton 56-46 Helix at 80 degree.
It goes 10000 off the line, 10800-10900 while spinning until she slows down to 10500 when hooking up and stays there until it runs out of gear at 150 mph speedo.
I've been clutching sleds for the last 15 years, both trail, trail unlimited (250-450 HP range) and dragracing 660 ft sanctioned racing in stock 800 class, I'm not a racer just one of the crew members way back in late 90s and early 2000s.
dirkdiggler
Suspended
You could also go with a softer total force primary spring.
dirk_03
Expert
dirkdiggler said:You could also go with a softer total force primary spring.
Yamaha Blue/pink/Blue(30-96)(low engagement ver soft finish Will sqeeze the belt awesome! Engagement was kinda low for me though in the mountains but awesome at lower altitude
or
Yamaha Blue/White/blue(45-111) Nice higher engagement, Little higher finish than the blue/pink/blue but still squeezes the belt tight.
If I was you I would try the blue/pink/blue. I would think you maybe would like it and even need to remove some weight from your arms. Removing weight will help it backshift faster I beleive.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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- Apr 25, 2003
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
It's not my sled I'm maxed out at....
It's a MCX290 sled I'm helping out a friend. We've tried the BWB to no avail. It can be conditions, soft spring snow. He may need taller gearing. I found a primary spring that worked better.
It's a MCX290 sled I'm helping out a friend. We've tried the BWB to no avail. It can be conditions, soft spring snow. He may need taller gearing. I found a primary spring that worked better.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - April 15. - 2008 Apex MCX 290 Water-Meth Install.
Before installing the Water-Meth Injection kit I had to tear down the sled a bit. Mostly under the hood.
Intercooler removed and placed on my work bench. I marked up where to put the nozzles and drilled a few small before drillling them out to the proper dimension.
The 90 degree elbows where the line connection (In the pic) and the nozzles are to be installed into.
The Intercooler have been drilled up and ready to threads, I used 1/8" NPT thred bit to make the threads, threads are self sealing when torked down. I use silicon thread tape as well to make sure the nozzles will not leak.
The water-meth tank have been tapped with the same thread bit and the line connector is installed in the bottom of the tank.
I drilled a 1" hole in the bulkhead for the water-meth line, I used a grommet to keep the line off the bulkhead.
Here's where I installed the water-meth pump.
Rest of the parts waiting to be installed.
Nozzles installed. I used blue LocTite to keep it from leaking and to secure it from loosening.
Elbows installed onto the nozzles, I used silicon thread tape to seal the threads. I've also installed T-couplers for the lines going to the nozzles.
Voltage regulator and MCX-press computer moved back and mounted on the Deltabox frame underneat the Intercooler.
Water-Meth tank installed in the nose cone.
The Water-Meth controller and the FailSafe controller have been installed in front of the Water-Meth tank.
I had to open up the lower front end to make the install, here's a view from the side.
Pretty much done, all there is left is to hook up power to the Water-Meth controllers and the pump, install the IC and connect the Water-Meth lines from the tank to the pump, to the fail safe contoller, then to the IC.
Turn up the boost and go. Plan is to go big on this one........ we'll see where it ends
Before installing the Water-Meth Injection kit I had to tear down the sled a bit. Mostly under the hood.
Intercooler removed and placed on my work bench. I marked up where to put the nozzles and drilled a few small before drillling them out to the proper dimension.
The 90 degree elbows where the line connection (In the pic) and the nozzles are to be installed into.
The Intercooler have been drilled up and ready to threads, I used 1/8" NPT thred bit to make the threads, threads are self sealing when torked down. I use silicon thread tape as well to make sure the nozzles will not leak.
The water-meth tank have been tapped with the same thread bit and the line connector is installed in the bottom of the tank.
I drilled a 1" hole in the bulkhead for the water-meth line, I used a grommet to keep the line off the bulkhead.
Here's where I installed the water-meth pump.
Rest of the parts waiting to be installed.
Nozzles installed. I used blue LocTite to keep it from leaking and to secure it from loosening.
Elbows installed onto the nozzles, I used silicon thread tape to seal the threads. I've also installed T-couplers for the lines going to the nozzles.
Voltage regulator and MCX-press computer moved back and mounted on the Deltabox frame underneat the Intercooler.
Water-Meth tank installed in the nose cone.
The Water-Meth controller and the FailSafe controller have been installed in front of the Water-Meth tank.
I had to open up the lower front end to make the install, here's a view from the side.
Pretty much done, all there is left is to hook up power to the Water-Meth controllers and the pump, install the IC and connect the Water-Meth lines from the tank to the pump, to the fail safe contoller, then to the IC.
Turn up the boost and go. Plan is to go big on this one........ we'll see where it ends
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
rxrider's Turbo Garage ....
My friends sleds are in before the Easter Holidays for tune ups and maintenance.
My friends sleds are in before the Easter Holidays for tune ups and maintenance.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Update - April 16-17. - 2006 Custom Attak, upgrading the turbo.
While tuning my friends Garrett GT2860RS lost it's bearings. New turbo was called for and arrived from www.turbopower.no the next day. They did not have a direct replacement turbo but he decided to go with the Garrett GT2871R with a .86AR exhaust housing. If needed he can take his old exhaust housing .64AR and put it in. For the time beeing he decided to see what the .86AR would do, for the pupose of learning. We'll see what the verdict is. This version of the GT2871R is capable of producing 475 HP.
The bend on the charge pipe out of the turbo had to be cut from the old turbo to be welded onto the new one.
Here's a look of the amount of insulation required to keep stuff from getting too hot and keep the heat inside the header, turbo and exhaust down pipe.
My sled, gotta install new elbows for the water-meth injection.
New turbo in place on the 06 Attak.
The charge tube from the turbo welded on the new turbo.
Turbo going back in.
More heat insulation going in, here's a turbo blanket.
The STM Rage VIII 4+4 arm clutch. It's a piece of art, when tuned it shifts very smoothly even with SuperTips notched clutch arms installed.
Almost done, IC in place.
Turbo finally wrapped down with insulation materials.
A new marker is set at the boost controller, last one was set at 1.2 BAR or 17.5 lbs. The new mark is set at 1.5 BAR or 22 lbs.
Exhaust down pipe is wrapped down.
All lines and electric cables even those remotely close to a heat source are shielded inside hoses who are shielded in wrapping with heat reflective tape on the outside. I cannot stress hard enough how important all this insulation is. This sled was very close to burn down last season, it was saved because of this crazy amount of insulation preventing burn thru to the tank and the fuel lines.
On my sled, I found some replacement elbows, my water-meth system is back online I'm ready for 22 lbs of boost.... no wait more than ready ... hahahahaha
While tuning my friends Garrett GT2860RS lost it's bearings. New turbo was called for and arrived from www.turbopower.no the next day. They did not have a direct replacement turbo but he decided to go with the Garrett GT2871R with a .86AR exhaust housing. If needed he can take his old exhaust housing .64AR and put it in. For the time beeing he decided to see what the .86AR would do, for the pupose of learning. We'll see what the verdict is. This version of the GT2871R is capable of producing 475 HP.
The bend on the charge pipe out of the turbo had to be cut from the old turbo to be welded onto the new one.
Here's a look of the amount of insulation required to keep stuff from getting too hot and keep the heat inside the header, turbo and exhaust down pipe.
My sled, gotta install new elbows for the water-meth injection.
New turbo in place on the 06 Attak.
The charge tube from the turbo welded on the new turbo.
Turbo going back in.
More heat insulation going in, here's a turbo blanket.
The STM Rage VIII 4+4 arm clutch. It's a piece of art, when tuned it shifts very smoothly even with SuperTips notched clutch arms installed.
Almost done, IC in place.
Turbo finally wrapped down with insulation materials.
A new marker is set at the boost controller, last one was set at 1.2 BAR or 17.5 lbs. The new mark is set at 1.5 BAR or 22 lbs.
Exhaust down pipe is wrapped down.
All lines and electric cables even those remotely close to a heat source are shielded inside hoses who are shielded in wrapping with heat reflective tape on the outside. I cannot stress hard enough how important all this insulation is. This sled was very close to burn down last season, it was saved because of this crazy amount of insulation preventing burn thru to the tank and the fuel lines.
On my sled, I found some replacement elbows, my water-meth system is back online I'm ready for 22 lbs of boost.... no wait more than ready ... hahahahaha
kinger
VIP Member
22 lbs of boost HOLY CRAP! Amazing how fast these sleds are!!!
Super Sled
Lifetime Member
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- Snowmobile
- Summit X
If you added wings those things would take off into the air!!!!!!!
Chris600
Expert
nice work rxrider
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
As a matter of fact, at 150 mph my skis are not touching the ground, only the track is, I have to lean if sled is starting to drift off course.
Oh yeah she's an evil bastard, only place I can hold her wide open is on a smooth lake. On the trail I can only hold her WOT for a few seconds at the time or else I may kill myself.
Oh yeah she's an evil bastard, only place I can hold her wide open is on a smooth lake. On the trail I can only hold her WOT for a few seconds at the time or else I may kill myself.
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