rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[Tarzan]

Nice work!!
Do you have a F16 licence?

 

[rxrider]

Hahahaha no no no, but my friend with the '06 Custom Turboed Attak is a pilot holding certificates for fixed wing micro lites and gyrocopters, he's also an instructor education coming pilots on the same type of aircrafts. He's also an aviation mechanic and in-flight mechanic at the 330-skvadron Search & Rescue stationed at Banak Airforce Station.

The closest I get to the F-16 Falcon is looking at them flying by my house every take off and landing LOL

 

[kinger]

I have the same problem at 140mph it starts to drift and no steering LOL Man these things are a rush!! Nice builds and picts!!

 

[rxrider]

Update - April 28 to May 2. - Upgrading Nytro MCX180 to MCX240.


It's possible to upgrade a Nytro MCX180 kit to MCX240. The workload is about the same as installing a MCX240 bottom up. Virtually every part installed in the MCX180 kit has to be removed. The exhaust and turbo stays but the headers has to be removed together with the engine and the front sub frame.

MCXpress accept the following parts in return when upgrading to MCX240:

- Waste gate actuator
- Silicon hose between precooler and intercooler
- Air box plenum
- MCX computer


Here's the parts included in the upgrade kit.

- New waste gate actuator
- New silicon hose between precooler and intercooler
- New air box plenum
- New MCX computer
- MCX head shim and a few more parts

I have ordered a MCXpress Display Unit for tuning purposes, it's virtually plug&play on all newer MCXpress turbo'ed sleds.

Old waste gate actuator, and the new one.

Old MCX computer, and the new one.

Checked the primary clutch on the Nytro, the spring was broken.

The old airbox plenum, and the new intercooler.

More to come.... here it is


Like said earlier the sled has to come apart, the main frame and drive train stays. The exhaust rear of the headers including turbo and muffler stays as well.

After removing all panels, seat, fuel tank, steering column and bellypan, I removed the front sub frame in one piece. Sub frame removal is quite easy to do, remove 12 bolts and lift it away.

With the sub frame removed next was to remove the engine from the frame. Ready to remove the engine.

I hoisted the sled up and put a few tripods under the sled. With the engine bolts removed (the engine will still stay in place until you unscrew the engine adjustment) I attached a strap to the engine.

I mounted the strap to my hoist and lifted the engine out of the frame.

Here's whats left on the sled, pretty much nothing

I hoisted the engine up on a trolley and moved it over to my workbench.

The FX Nytro engine cannot stay upright on its own so I had to tie it to the workbench to be able to work on it. I used what I had at hand and tied it firmly to my workbench, the pic says it all LOL hahahaha.... I have to come up with a better solution the next time I work on that motor.


I rotated the engine until I had the ignition marker correct and #1 cylinder at TDC (top dead center). Now I removed the cylinder head cover and the cam chain tensioner. You can see from the pic that all was done correctly, both cams are on the dots.

If I haven't removed the cam tensioner the marks would have been spot on, with the tensioner out they are slightly off, this is normal.

Installed the new MCX head shim. The head was torked down in these steps. First to 20Nm, then to 40Nm, and finally all bolts were torked 60 degree further from 40Nm. I checked with the tork wrench, the bolts are past 60Nm. All surfaces on bolt heads and washers were lubed with moly grease. The two M6 bolts on the outside are torked to 12Nm.

Checked valve shim clearances and changed shims as needed.

Checked that the crank was still at the marker.

Set the cams in the correct position. The bolt holes on the cam gears have been modified to set the cams back in the stock position where the Nytro engine will make best power according to MCX. Here's what it looks like with the cam tensioner installed, the cams are close to 100% on the dots.

Cam caps were torked to 11Nm. A last valve clearance check to make sure shims and retainers was still in place and the cylinder head cover went on. Make sure you check the valve clearance before closing the engine. If something is off engine failure will happen on start up.

The engine is ready to be hoisted into the frame.

Engine is in the frame, bolts are in but not tightened yet. I have to check and set engine alignment before torking down the bolts.

The sub frame is on.

The frame above the engine and the oil tank installed.

Throttle bodies, coolant hoses and oil hoses installed.

Clutches installed.

All hoses to and from the turbo attached to the engine.

Radiator, intercooler and steering column installed.

Fuel tank and brakes installed.

Oil and coolant filled up. Aluminum cover installed over the turbo and muffler, seat and all plastic parts installed.

The sled is ready to rock.

 

[rxrider]

Thread updated

 

[Chris600]

Bra jobbat där rxrider

Nice work

 

[rxrider]

Takk Chris
Thanks Chris


We will start working on our custom Attak next month. Engine will be strengthened with Carillo rods and stuff to take the full power of a Garrett 2871 turbo.

 

[olemagne]

Great DIY!

How much did it cost to upgrade from 180hp to 240hp? only parts

 

[rxrider]

If you're able to convince Erik Marklund at MCXpress to accept your used part in a trade in; pricing will be kr 11000,- SEK parts only. Work is the same as installing a complete MCX240 kit.

 

[JCLG]

Great topic. Planning to do the same!!

 

[rxrider]

SEASON 2011-2012


Hi JCLG - yes it's a great project for the FX Nytro, it's running pretty OK with the 180 HP kit but adding another 60 HP and the sled is going to rock.

 

[rxrider]

Update - October 8. - Installing Carrillo Rods in Apex engine.


Just got the rods in from Hurricane (site sponsor).
We are going to strenghten our custom turboed Attak to take the power of Garrett GT2871 turbo. We plan on raising the powerlevel from 360 HP to 400+ HP, to achieve this safely we have decided to add the Carrillo rods to take power the new turbo delivers.

Pics posted.

I've opened the box to have a look at the rods.

They were nicely packed and comes with install instructions and lube for the bolts.

The rods are well oiled and packed inside sealed pastic bags for good protection

More to come when engine teardown starts. I will document the teardown and rebuild in detail for those interested in using this post as reference. We did the work at my friends work at the nearby Air Force Base. Photograpy prohibited on the premesis... sorry about that. The work will be covered in another post in March 2012.

 

[Tarzan]

 

[rxrider]

Thread updated

 

[kinger]

Awesome cant wait!!!