rxrider's Turbo Garage - pics back, will continue

[Pratas]

Hi rxrider! The new seat is excellent, but we have to alter themselves and it turns like this

 

[TT]

Looks good with the 144" track )))

 

[rxrider]

Pratas, thanks Your sleds looks cool with the flames, great looks.

TT - thanks buddy, finally getting there. The IC is out at the welder to get the mounting flange welded to the chamber in front of the IC core. Gotta lower the needles to the stock #3 position and I'm ready to rock.

WE NEED more SNOW - FAST hahahahaha

 

[kinger]

Looks great rxrider!!! Cant wait for the feedback on the 144" I think next year I may bit the bullet and go to a 144" myself.

 

[Viper_Dave]

You are gonn' LOVE that track and the extra length. Made my Attak much closer to what I want from a boondocker. It's also MUCH more stable on trails than the 1.25 Predator I took off.

 

[TT]

Forget needles - I just adjust my CO - LOL. I finnished mine today. Just have to go over both clutches and polish it - then a test trip. I had to take it for a little spin in the yard and down the street. Boost on))))))))

I will updated my thread with plenty of pics when I get the time.

You will love the 144" track. Finally some hock up for the old lady.

My next build will probably be a 144" with a 1.75-2.5" track;-) I wish I had the money for the new apex xtx and boost. But money and time is going towards rebuild the cabin at the moment.

 

[rxrider]

Update - December 27. - Repacking drive- and jackshaft bearings. Greasing front and rear suspension. Cleaning primary and secondary clutches.


My stock 08 Apex RTX finally got my attention. I have already changed the engine- and gearbox oil, charged the battery, filled her up with new fresh gas.

Last time out I finished her up by repacking the drive- and jackshaft bearings and greasing up the front- and rear suspension.


I started by removing side panels and both clutches. Removed the speedo sprocket and pickup, removed the drive shaft bearing cup, removed lids from both bearings.

Next I sprayed the bearings with a rust remover and let it sit for 15 minutes, then I sprayed them with lots of WD40 to clean all old grease and contaminants from the bearings. I repeated the WD40 treatment a few more times and at last I blew the bearings clean with compressed air.
Here's a pic of the cleaned up jackshaft bearing.

With the bearings cleaned and dried I packed the drive shaft bearing with new grease and installed the lid. I use high pressure moly grease when repacking bearings. The bearing installed on the drive shaft.

Next I packed the jack shaft bearing. Remember not to pack it too full, or else you may pop the rear lid when installing the front lid.

I figured it was time to inspect my clutches while I had them off. On the secondary I removed the helix and inspected the buttons on the internals of the clutch. No need to change any parts, the clutch is in great shape, it was not even dirty and the buttons were still in pretty good shape. When reinstalling the helix I decided to back off the Pind secondary spring from 70 deg (holes 6+1=stock setting) to 60 deg (holes 3+3). I did this adjustment to make the sled less aggressive on take-off and slow riding.

Opened the primary for inspection.... all is well.... no belt dust to speak of... put her back together again.

Clutches back on the sled.

Time to grease up the front- and rear suspension with hi-pressure moly lube.

The sled is done and ready to go.

More to come.... I will be working on the turbo sled this evening

 

[rxrider]

Update - December 29. - Installing TiAL Q BOV. Installing IC. Setting carburetor needle position.


The TiAL Q 50mm BOV have been installed onto the IC. It took some trimming of the frame holding the nose bumper to make the TiAL clear the frame with the IC installed. The vacuum hose have been hooked up and ziped tied. Here's a few pics of the TiAL BOV and IC installed.

With the IC done I opened the STM carburetor caps to change the needle clip position. I had it raised 1 notch last season, too much fuel. Now I've set them at the #3 position (stock) and I will never ever touch them again, no use. The best position is and has allways been the #3 position.
When removing the slides and rubber I found one of them had a large hole in it. Luckily I had a used spare on the shelf. I glued the faulty one with o-ring glue (sticks to rubber very well) and put it away as a spare.

Parts on the work bench ready for needle clip adjustment and reinstall.

Sled is done and ready to ride.

 

[Tarzan]

Lovely sled and some real nice work to!!
Nice to have a such supernice sled going here up north in Norway

 

[dirk_03]

BOV

I hate to say it but I don't think your going to like the BOV on the end tank of the IC. At least on the Vector it HAS to be before the pitot pickup, otherwise the pitot still reads the air and gives a rich condition when chopping the throttle. I guess if could be totally different on the rx1 but I am 100% positive that mine it going to work a ton better this year with the BOV on the charge tube before my pitot tube. Now I just wish I had the cash to drop on a Tial

 

[rxrider]

I still have my Vortech on the charge tube before the pressure signal tube, the TiAL needs more vacuum before opening. This way the Vortech takes care of changes in throttle position which it's the best at, then the TiAL will open at larger throttle changes and when I go on/off/on/off throttle to keep the pressure to go out thru the turbine causing flutter. I would imagine this condition also makes for a rich condition as the pressure doesn't fall fast enough in the charge tube causing the Fuel Pressure Regulator to feed way too much fuel to the carbs. With the TiAL up front the pressure will drop way faster redusing the fuel the FPR feeds to the carbs, thus removing the rich condition.

Did you run 2 BOV's or only one?

 

[dirk_03]

BOV

I am running one right now but I am seriously thinking of putting my other one on before our trip out west. One like you have, One to control light throttle am the other setup stiffer to handle the big throttle chops.

Surprisely I am running a cheap turboXS bov right now and I am the happiest I have been with the bov operation ever. I was thinking of putting my Turbosmart vee port on it as well. And leaving the spring tension a little stiffer. I don't know though. If I had the chance to get a vortech, tial or synapse and try it and it worked perfectly it would be a no brainer to spend the money on it for me. I just don't wanna throw money at a bov and have it not do what I need it to.

UPDATE. . . . I just said screw it. It is just money. . . . And ordered the vortech maxflow from summit racing. and had it overnighted. They price matched turboadditctionparts. I would have ordered it from ted but he is closed till the 3rd. I hope this makes all the difference.

 

[rxrider]

You will love the Vortech I'm sure of.

 

[rxrider]

rxrider's Turbo Garage Season 2011


Update - January 14. - Project 06 Attak custom turbo sled. Fire in the hole, literally speaking. This sled caught fire last season, but was saved by the rider due to fast thinking, fuel line design, strong arms and a lot of snow.

This sled has been under repair for a while by rxrider's Turbo Garage, it's our project sled, we hope to have it running strong within a month or so.

To make the story short; fuel leakage into the air filter, air filter caught fire and stopped the engine due to lack of O2, owner had flames coming up around the steering post, plastic covers started to melt, he tore them off with his bare hands, next he tore off the seat and the fuel tank, and put out the fire by adding loads of snow into the engine compartment, sled saved but slightly damaged. Mainly plastics and electrical wireing.

Most of the electrical wireing have been replaced or repaired, some parts still left to solder and tape up.


Last work done; reparing the head light pod, wireing and so on.

Here's a few pics of the head light pod repair work.

The pod was stripped down completely in parts, parts were cleaned, some parts were damaged by the fire and got changed out. The main black plastic part was changed.

Wireing repaired, plugs changed, vacuum/pressure line repaired.

Instrument pod, water temp- and boost gauge installed.

Head light installed to the pod.

Water/Meth indicator led installed.

Windscreen installed.

All wireing done and plugs installed. Head light pod is done and ready for install

We have a few more wires left to fix before the sled is put back together again.

 

[rxrider]

Update - January 23. - Installing MSD Launch Master PN 4350. Adapting MCX Diplay Unit to 2007 MCX Controller Unit.


Today I'm posting my work from the last week or so.

I'm starting with the MSD Launch Master.

Sled is stripped down as much as needed before the MSD LM install can begin.

This sled had Xenon head lights with a lot of wireing that had to be removed.

With the sled ready I've opened the MSD box. It contains the controller and a wireing harness.

The connectors going in between the stock connector and the coils have been put in place. Not connected to the coils yet as you have to test the connections before connecting the coils.

The MSD LM has been installed inside the deltabox frame behind the primary clutch. I decided to place it here because of the length of the cables and the fact that it will be protected from snow in that spot. The nose cone often fills up when riding in the deep stuff.

After connecting all wireing I made the test for proper connections by turning on power and grounding the blue wire, I launch indicator lit, all connections were OK. Turned off ignition and connected the coils.
By default the MSD LM is activated by grounding the blue wire going to the MSD LM unit. I had to change that because I wanted to use the brake lever as the launch activator. I looked up the Apex wireing chart and found that the green wire coming from the break light switch will be +12V when break lever is pulled in. This requires a reconfiguration of the blue wire coming from the break switch green wire. I had to move the blue wire on the connector to align with the blue/white cable, this move makes the MSD LM to activate on +12V. Set the limiter to 3400 rpms, sled engages at 3600 rmps. If limiter is set to close to engagement sled may start to move forward on the limiter.


MCX Display Unit adaptation to 2007 MCX Controller unit.


In order to be able to log and tune a 2007 MCX turbokit I had to adapt my 2008 MCX Display unit wireing. I also made the harness easy to connect and remove for tuning purposes. The 2007 Display unit harness has to be plugged into the main plug going into the MCX Controller Unit.

I have made both a 2007 and 2008+ MSC Display unit wire harness to make it easy to tune MCX 2007 and newer kits. This harness will fit all MCX turbo kits.

The O2 sensor installed.

MCX Display unit harness installed.

Fired up the sled and all reading on the MCX display unit worked. Time to start tuning the sled.