vodoo child
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Thanks Steve, I pick up the sled Saturday for the oil tank replacement. Might just back her off the trailer in the garage and set the secondary at 2/3 to be a little safer. I'm assuming that's 2 on the sheave and 3 on the helix?
sledding rocks
Expert
x2I think the fine line comment is spot on Dan. In many cases with all these reports is there may be one or two variables that move that line and have very different results. Unfortunately I think we all need to test these components on our own sleds and see for ourselves what the results are.
I had the Big Venom kit on my sled with the Heavy Hitter weights along with the Dalton 33/35 and TP Orange spring. Like reported the spring was a bear to install. The performance was good with much more engine braking and much quicker downshifting. The mid range RPM's seemed higher as I felt the helix and spring combo made it upshift slower but down shift quicker. This is where I think the added heat comes from as I noticed hot clutches and belt even though not a lot of belt dust or wear.
I then tried the Dalton Black/orange spring and went back to the stock 35 helix. Since the big venom kit was designed around the stock secondary set up and the black/orange spring I was told was very close to the stock spring without the coil bind and a little more side pressure I figured it should work fine. My results showed a sled that upshifted much quicker and pulled harder in the mid range. I also noticed much cooler clutches and belt. The other very noticeable thing was total lack of engine braking. I personally don't care about EB but I do like the quicker upshifting because these sleds have so much power that they will have no issue pulling it. That's why I think guys with tunes will be able to pull much steeper helix's than what many are running. I really don't think even the stock Winders need the 33/35 for what many claim a little more low end rpm.
ROCKERDAN
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Maybe its this crappy winter many of us are having? No snow messes with all us sledheads.
And its more frustrating when we keep seeing clutch/belt issue post after post.
Lets all get along gang.
Good post Joe.
Dan
And its more frustrating when we keep seeing clutch/belt issue post after post.
Lets all get along gang.
Good post Joe.
Dan
jonlafon1
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Traction is also a strong possibility with issues from one guy to the next. When we talk about jacking the flipper and the power we have here> how the sled hooks can be a factor here guys. Im loaded with 200+ plus studs And I would bet anything the same clutch set up with half the studs and maybe zero studs will make a huge diff especially out of hole and mid range hammers. with clutch heat and that good balance between the two clutches
VX1R
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Maybe its this crappy winter many of us are having? No snow messes with all us sledheads.
And its more frustrating when we keep seeing clutch/belt issue post after post.
Lets all get along gang.
Good post Joe.
Dan
I couldn't agree with you more Dan. In the grand scheme of things what the heck are you guys arguing about anyway........ a 'freaking snowmobile clutch spring?
Most of us are here to share information and to help each other out to make our sleds the best that they can be.
We all need snow!
WinterWolf
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Thanks Steve, I pick up the sled Saturday for the oil tank replacement. Might just back her off the trailer in the garage and set the secondary at 2/3 to be a little safer. I'm assuming that's 2 on the sheave and 3 on the helix?
Hey Mike...yes that would be 3 on the Helix, and 2 on the sheave my friend.
vodoo child
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Thanks JD. I got the Ok from the wife to do another solo trip up to the County the 1st or 2nd week of March. Can you get away either of those weeks?Hey Mike...yes that would be 3 on the Helix, and 2 on the sheave my friend.
Snowaddict
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In my opinion, if you're going to use the TP orange secondary spring, I would wrap at least less than 50 degrees. My clutches were still hot at 2-3. More testing for me tomorrow.
And as far as the personal attacks, go burn off the energy by doing some riding. I have gotten some good advice and great support from this site. Not to mention some new friends. Lots of knowledgeable people here with real world seat time.
And as far as the personal attacks, go burn off the energy by doing some riding. I have gotten some good advice and great support from this site. Not to mention some new friends. Lots of knowledgeable people here with real world seat time.
Revitup600
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I just got back from a 600 mile ride. Hurricane stock muffler tune (225). All stock clutching would run at 9200. Warm primary fairly hot secondary. Changed tension in driven to 2-3. Dropped rpms to 9050. No matter how hard I rode it clutches were only warm. And that was doing hole shots and long wot runs.. I just wish I could now drop rpms 200 with this combo- but unfortunately there is no primary spring option to do so.. So that only leaves the option of switching weights or let it run over 9k... But that’s the coolest clutch temps I’ve ever had on a 4 stroke sled
Soupy
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I'd let it run. Throttle response will be a little better and good clutch temp is great.I just got back from a 600 mile ride. Hurricane stock muffler tune (225). All stock clutching would run at 9200. Warm primary fairly hot secondary. Changed tension in driven to 2-3. Dropped rpms to 9050. No matter how hard I rode it clutches were only warm. And that was doing hole shots and long wot runs.. I just wish I could now drop rpms 200 with this combo- but unfortunately there is no primary spring option to do so.. So that only leaves the option of switching weights or let it run over 9k... But that’s the coolest clutch temps I’ve ever had on a 4 stroke sled
theewarrior
Expert
What could be happening when the back secondary clutch opens wide enough that the belt slipped while fully down in it , left black marks on the three legs down inside
chaleurphantom
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I just got back from a 600 mile ride. Hurricane stock muffler tune (225). All stock clutching would run at 9200. Warm primary fairly hot secondary. Changed tension in driven to 2-3. Dropped rpms to 9050. No matter how hard I rode it clutches were only warm. And that was doing hole shots and long wot runs.. I just wish I could now drop rpms 200 with this combo- but unfortunately there is no primary spring option to do so.. So that only leaves the option of switching weights or let it run over 9k... But that’s the coolest clutch temps I’ve ever had on a 4 stroke sled
You may want to try a Gates Carbon 8JP equivalent. I did this on my Viper and dropped 200 RPMs.
I am not sure if it will have the same effect with the Sidewinder?
Doowithblue
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18- RTX LE
At least 200rpm
Revitup600
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Did u get much dust from the gates? The 8jp is horrible. Worst I’ve ever seen on a sled ive ownedYou may want to try a Gates Carbon 8JP equivalent. I did this on my Viper and dropped 200 RPMs.
I am not sure if it will have the same effect with the Sidewinder?
fourload
TY 4 Stroke Master
Do you like that tune?I was thinking of getting it. If you want you could try heavier rivets in the stock weights. Hauck and Schmidt brothers offer heavier rivets then 4.5grams.I just got back from a 600 mile ride. Hurricane stock muffler tune (225). All stock clutching would run at 9200. Warm primary fairly hot secondary. Changed tension in driven to 2-3. Dropped rpms to 9050. No matter how hard I rode it clutches were only warm. And that was doing hole shots and long wot runs.. I just wish I could now drop rpms 200 with this combo- but unfortunately there is no primary spring option to do so.. So that only leaves the option of switching weights or let it run over 9k... But that’s the coolest clutch temps I’ve ever had on a 4 stroke sled
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