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Snow Trackers for Stryke Skis

I find it interesting you say “ even saw 9000 rpms a couple of times “ .
My 22 Le , right from the first 50 km (with a light break in for 10km ) all stock would pull right through the stock clutching to 9100 rpm . It’s like the sled had a extra 15-20 hp stock over my 18 LE & 21 SrX , . I have since put a hurricane flash in ( same set up last year ) and the sled beats other sidewinders that I raced last year by a bunch more …. I’m really going to have a hard time upgrading sleds next year unless it’s a new chassis . lol . This is by far the most impressive sled I have ever had speed wise yet .
I noticed my sled has hit 9355 rpms .
How is that possible ?
That much track slip ?
Belt slip ?
Also I am not sure, but the snowtrackers I have on the stryke skis are probably semi aggressive , as they do not seam as good as the tuner set up with semi aggressives I have on my 17
In both instances the trails are not necessarily that firm , to really tell what's going on .
 

I noticed my sled has hit 9355 rpms .
How is that possible ?
That much track slip ?
Belt slip ?
Also I am not sure, but the snowtrackers I have on the stryke skis are probably semi aggressive , as they do not seam as good as the tuner set up with semi aggressives I have on my 17
In both instances the trails are not necessarily that firm , to really tell what's going on .
What belt are you using? Stock? Drop a XS belt in those rpm will drop 400-500
 
I noticed my sled has hit 9355 rpms .
How is that possible ?
That much track slip ?
Belt slip ?
Also I am not sure, but the snowtrackers I have on the stryke skis are probably semi aggressive , as they do not seam as good as the tuner set up with semi aggressives I have on my 17
In both instances the trails are not necessarily that firm , to really tell what's going on .
I think the motor has more power , , if you stay with stock weights, I would go to the heavier rivet on the out side. . Check the offset to 58 mm , stock set up works good . I also noticed on my 22 secondary clutch , all 3 rollers have equal pressure on the helix ramps , something that my 21 & 18 didn’t do .

The tuner ski has a lot more bite with snow trackers. The stryke ski with semi aggressive snow trackers, I would back off the center spring 1- 2 turns is what I found on the srx , was pretty good. With the rear torsion springs set to stiffest .
 
What belt are you using? Stock? Drop a XS belt in those rpm will drop 400-50

I think the motor has more power , , if you stay with stock weights, I would go to the heavier rivet on the out side. . Check the offset to 58 mm , stock set up works good . I also noticed on my 22 secondary clutch , all 3 rollers have equal pressure on the helix ramps , something that my 21 & 18 didn’t do .

The tuner ski has a lot more bite with snow trackers. The stryke ski with semi aggressive snow trackers, I would back off the center spring 1- 2 turns is what I found on the srx , was pretty good. With the rear torsion springs set to stiffest .
I get the front spring adjustment , but why the torsions maxed ?
I'm 240 lbs. dressed up , and you ?
 
I’m 240 without equipment . I just found the coming out of corners, or big rolling g outs the rear bottomed to easy .
 
I’m 240 without equipment . I just found the coming out of corners, or big rolling g outs the rear bottomed to easy .
I found that too , so I went to #2 setting , will try 3 to see the difference , after I loosen the front spring , and compare .
What are your shock settings at ? Front and back ? I am at medium front and back , as have not tried any custom settings like soft front and medium/ firm on the back . Have you played with that aspect of the puzzle ?
 
IMO anyone over 200 should be #3 on back torsions
Yamaha says way more , #2 starts at 240 I believe , as I don't have my owners manual handy .
I get it , it is all personal preference , and there's are guidelines .
Then what do you do if you carry a Linq .
I bought the 5 position adjuster from Star ,with not much change , except got bouncy, but now found out my shocks were the issue , as I lost the charge .
Once I get my suspension back together on the 17 LTX-LE , and do some comparison rides , then I will be able to tell the real world differences of the 2 different set ups .
It should be like dating twins, but not identical twins !!
 
Yamaha says way more , #2 starts at 240 I believe , as I don't have my owners manual handy .
I get it , it is all personal preference , and there's are guidelines .
Then what do you do if you carry a Linq .
I bought the 5 position adjuster from Star ,with not much change , except got bouncy, but now found out my shocks were the issue , as I lost the charge .
Once I get my suspension back together on the 17 LTX-LE , and do some comparison rides , then I will be able to tell the real world differences of the 2 different set ups .
It should be like dating twins, but not identical twins !!
wondering if these rear torsions are not consistent from one set to another? Sled should not drop more then 4"(when sitting in normal sitting position outside/cold on snow trail flat). So whatever springs and setting does this would be ideal.. personal opinion..
I run the T cat springs in the back(different cocking angle compared to stockers) and if I was on #2 I would be rubbing my tunnel. I have a 4 position aluminum adjuster and 3 is okay but I usually run on 4 and I have 4" drop.. I find it interesting what others do with these winders and settings.. By no means its one setting fits all or what some like others do not.. riding style will play into this i suppose..
 
I found that too , so I went to #2 setting , will try 3 to see the difference , after I loosen the front spring , and compare .
What are your shock settings at ? Front and back ? I am at medium front and back , as have not tried any custom settings like soft front and medium/ firm on the back . Have you played with that aspect of the puzzle ?
I ran soft 90% of the time , 10% med. you can toggle on the fly once you figure it out pretty easy . Front suspension works best on that setting. Then I just stiffened rear to stop bottom outs . Rebuilding the rear of rear shock will also help , but didn’t do that to the srx last year.
 
Can you feel a difference when you bottom the rear shock vs the center?
 
Center shock mostly bottoms on big hits , running down trail steady speed . The rear mostly bottoms on acceleration & big high speed rollers, hills & dips . Generally. The rear rubber stop blow out.
If the rear torsion are to soft for you ., you will feel under wide open acceleration , the rear will squat, leading to hard bottom out if you hit any size bump
 
@Snowtracker JB,

Would you be willing to post some pics and detail the difference between the Cat 20113 and the Stryke 20411?

I believe Yamaha has indicated the bolt hole pattern in the ski is the same, but placement may be different relative to the cutting carbide.
 
Absolutely love the semi on a 21 8000 cat. Unreal handling. Cat skis. Had very good luck with them on 17 sidewinder with Cat skis. I did not care for the aggressive on cat skis. I’m dialing in a 22 sidewinder with the stryke skis. I’m running double down snipers 6”. It good but still tweaking. I was just checking the availability on semi for the 22.
I put same carbides on mine.
It handle slightly better than stock so I tried slydog attacks with 6" shapers but the steering is heavier
 


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