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Mine is similar without a tune. Yamaha should provide tune not EVO or PCV.
I agree
In tech school its called driveability. That includes starting. Basicly it should be completely worry free and intuitive for a human to start and drive. Like almost every car,truck and motorcycle on the planet.
Any more flashers?
swampcat
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Hey now, careful what you ask for.Any more flashers?
smoothride
Lifetime Member
TestMaster
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- 2014 SR Viper LTX SE
2014 SR Viper LTX DX
2001 Venture 600
Given to a friend - 1998 SRX 700s
My 2014 LTX SE was reflashed last Friday. When I picked it up at the Dealer on Tuesday the Tech. started it the first time, he cycled the fuel pump and it took 2 tries. He did not let it heat up then shut it down. I started it the second time about 5 minutes later, did not cycle the pump and it took two starts. Once it started it took about 15-20 seconds to run clean. Once it was loaded on the trailer we ran it until it reached about 160 degrees. At that point the idle was fluctuating about 100 rpm.
Once I reached home I started the sled with out cycling the pump and it took 2 starts.
I let the engine heat until the radiator fan kicked in.
130 degrees - 50-100 RPM fluctuation.
175 degrees - 30-50 RPM fluctuation.
195 Degrees - *The radiator fan kicked in at 195 and a 10 RPM fluctuation*. The RPM was from 1500-1510 to 1490-1500. There were actually periods up to 5-8 seconds where ther was no apparent fluctuation at 1500 and one time at 1490.
Could the added electrical load from the fan stabilize the idle?
My wife's sled is at the dealer since Tuesdsy, the lead technician is watching the front counter while the owner is out sick! Probably ready Monday! More then.
Once I reached home I started the sled with out cycling the pump and it took 2 starts.
I let the engine heat until the radiator fan kicked in.
130 degrees - 50-100 RPM fluctuation.
175 degrees - 30-50 RPM fluctuation.
195 Degrees - *The radiator fan kicked in at 195 and a 10 RPM fluctuation*. The RPM was from 1500-1510 to 1490-1500. There were actually periods up to 5-8 seconds where ther was no apparent fluctuation at 1500 and one time at 1490.
Could the added electrical load from the fan stabilize the idle?
My wife's sled is at the dealer since Tuesdsy, the lead technician is watching the front counter while the owner is out sick! Probably ready Monday! More then.
Last edited:
tnc110
Lifetime Member
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Thanks for reporting! Keep us posted.My 2014 LTX SE was reflashed last Friday. When I picked it up at the Dealer on Tuesday the Tech. started it the first time, he cycled the fuel pump and it took 2 tries. He did not let it heat up then shut it down. I started it the second time about 5 minutes later, did not cycle the pump and it took two starts. Once it started it took about 15-20 seconds to run clean. Once it was loaded on the trailer we ran it until it reached about 160 degrees. At that point the idle was fluctuating about 100 rpm.
Once I reached home I started the sled with out cycling the pump and it took 2 starts.
I let the engine heat until the radiator fan kicked in.
130 degrees - 50-100 RPM fluctuation.
175 degrees - 30-50 RPM fluctuation.
195 Degrees - *The radiator fan kicked in at 195 and a 10 RPM fluctuation*
Could the added electrical load from the fan stabilize the idle?
My wife's sled is at the dealer since Tuesdsy, the lead technician is watching the front counter while the owner is out sick! Probably ready Monday! More then.
You know the topic of some aftermarket gauges not being able to boot up because of voltage fluctuation was brought up last year. Could it be some type of fluctuation in voltage causing issues? By being a Seperate starting system completely independent of the ECU is the voltage going to least resistance which would be starter when starting and fan for sure when running. That independent starter system is unlike any other Yamaha made. All others when kill is engaged it kills all. By voltage going to starter and fan is it sacrificing ecu or pump?My 2014 LTX SE was reflashed last Friday. When I picked it up at the Dealer on Tuesday the Tech. started it the first time, he cycled the fuel pump and it took 2 tries. He did not let it heat up then shut it down. I started it the second time about 5 minutes later, did not cycle the pump and it took two starts. Once it started it took about 15-20 seconds to run clean. Once it was loaded on the trailer we ran it until it reached about 160 degrees. At that point the idle was fluctuating about 100 rpm.
Once I reached home I started the sled with out cycling the pump and it took 2 starts.
I let the engine heat until the radiator fan kicked in.
130 degrees - 50-100 RPM fluctuation.
175 degrees - 30-50 RPM fluctuation.
195 Degrees - *The radiator fan kicked in at 195 and a 10 RPM fluctuation*
Could the added electrical load from the fan stabilize the idle?
My wife's sled is at the dealer since Tuesdsy, the lead technician is watching the front counter while the owner is out sick! Probably ready Monday! More then.
Another consideration is that in 14 with original flash there was no erratic idle. Nothing has changed except for the flash.
TestMaster
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- 2014 SR Viper LTX SE
2014 SR Viper LTX DX
2001 Venture 600
Given to a friend - 1998 SRX 700s
You know the topic of some aftermarket gauges not being able to boot up because of voltage fluctuation was brought up last year. Could it be some type of fluctuation in voltage causing issues? By being a Seperate starting system completely independent of the ECU is the voltage going to least resistance which would be starter when starting and fan for sure when running. That independent starter system is unlike any other Yamaha made. All others when kill is engaged it kills all. By voltage going to starter and fan is it sacrificing ecu or pump?
Power coming from an alternator is pretty dirty with spikes and dips occurring as different loads are applied and removed. When we transitioned from analog to digital electronics and controls we no longer powered electronic components with raw power from an alternator. In addition, electronic components use different voltages than the primary battery so the use of power supplies became prevalent. But power supplies have problems of their own as they are also subject to those same fluctuations, but with robust design they can perform well over a wider range of fluctuation. On the output side care must be taken because power supplies can and do have wierd characteristics. Especially when working at the upper or lower limit of their design. Perhaps that is part of the problem.
Peter A
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2016 LTX-DX w just over 800km. Reflash done today. Took 2 attempts to start from cold (0 Celsius) but idled rock solid at 1500 rpm. I would say it is an improvement from what it was as idle was more erratic (+/- 100rpm) before the flash. Have never experienced the kickback issue so can't comment on that.Any more flashers?
hellflyer
TY 4 Stroke Master
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- 2020 sidewinder ltx se
I rode mine with the new flash for the first time and took two tries to start cold in my trailer but so did the bone stock nytro beside it. I started both to see! Rode in a golf course with drifts and Bush trails not much hi speed and was putting out some hot air with the turbo and header but started it hot three times with instant start up.
TestMaster
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2014 SR Viper LTX DX
2001 Venture 600
Given to a friend - 1998 SRX 700s
We took both Vipers out for the first ride since the reflash today. Both sleds start much better than before the flash, take two tries to start on the first cold start of the day without letting the fuel pumps cycle. No kickback on either sled and it's amazing how similar that they crank and the time they crank prior to starting is near identical. This is definitely a first I almost all accounts! The only thing they had in common prior to the reflash was that they both kickback! Idle hunts a bit in both sleds and both Vipers have a 10-20 RPM variance with a 30 RPM variance thrown in from time to time. Total miles today 57 each!
So you recommend it I assume?
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