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Ulmer Racing MPI Sneak Peak..My Viper gets more boost.

In my opinion, unless you are very experienced with the Autotune unit and boost, do not run Autotune, simply get a Wideband Commander setup instead of the Autotune. The Autotune can create a tuning nightmare if you do not know what you are doing.
 

So in the video it's obviously setup on a high/low boost switch, are most people just clutching for the high boost and on low boost it is what it is? I'm planning to do high/low boost on mine, but even on low boost I'd like it to run proper rpm for good performance, unfortunately it'll need 2 separate clutch setups and then it's not really a simple flip the switch and go kinda thing. Ideas?
 
In my opinion, unless you are very experienced with the Autotune unit and boost, do not run Autotune, simply get a Wideband Commander setup instead of the Autotune. The Autotune can create a tuning nightmare if you do not know what you are doing.
I'll be calling you in about a month to discuss all this. Trying to get the cards paid off that I racked up this winter before spending a bunch of money.:D
 
We dyno'd his setup as he came in off the trail. He had 105 hp to the track @ 5 psi of boost on the track dyno. When he left we had 131 hp to the track @ 11 psi. He has a super safe setup with his boost switch being 8-9 lbs & 10-11 lbs.
 
So in the video it's obviously setup on a high/low boost switch, are most people just clutching for the high boost and on low boost it is what it is? I'm planning to do high/low boost on mine, but even on low boost I'd like it to run proper rpm for good performance, unfortunately it'll need 2 separate clutch setups and then it's not really a simple flip the switch and go kinda thing. Ideas?

Clutched for high boost (shooting for 9000 rpm) and you will run 8600 or so on low boost with a 3 lbs boost switch setup. In that video we're clutched a little heavy. He will pickup a little more in winter air (he will gain about 1 lbs of boost going from the dyno @ 80* air to the winter time air temps).
 
Clutched for high boost (shooting for 9000 rpm) and you will run 8600 or so on low boost with a 3 lbs boost switch setup. In that video we're clutched a little heavy. He will pickup a little more in winter air (he will gain about 1 lbs of boost going from the dyno @ 80* air to the winter time air temps).

So even at low boost and 85-8600 it's still making good power, do u think there's any risk of cylinder pressure being too high running the lower rpm? And also curious if you're planning to run high boost on pump fuel still?
 
So even at low boost and 85-8600 it's still making good power, do u think there's any risk of cylinder pressure being too high running the lower rpm? And also curious if you're planning to run high boost on pump fuel still?

At 8500 to 8600 on 8-9 lbs boost, according to the math with the intake cam timing I used, he should be safe even on 87 octane if he wanted, so no, I'm not worried about low boost running 8500 to 8600. Yes, high boost (12 lbs) he will run 91 octane fuel. If it goes over 12 lbs of boost it is setup to pull timing out with the ignition module.
 
At 8500 to 8600 on 8-9 lbs boost, according to the math with the intake cam timing I used, he should be safe even on 87 octane if he wanted, so no, I'm not worried about low boost running 8500 to 8600. Yes, high boost (12 lbs) he will run 91 octane fuel. If it goes over 12 lbs of boost it is setup to pull timing out with the ignition module.

Sounds like a wicked setup! Would love to see it in action!
 
So in the video it's obviously setup on a high/low boost switch, are most people just clutching for the high boost and on low boost it is what it is? I'm planning to do high/low boost on mine, but even on low boost I'd like it to run proper rpm for good performance, unfortunately it'll need 2 separate clutch setups and then it's not really a simple flip the switch and go kinda thing. Ideas?
You do not need it!!! I am running 9 & 13#'s on mine and am clutched for the top side. at 9 lbs I notice no performance drop at all and am seeing 8700 on hard long pulls. I do have a tendency to hit the rev limiter on 13 at times depending on conditions but the more HP you are making the less critical the clutching seems to be.
 
You do not need it!!! I am running 9 & 13#'s on mine and am clutched for the top side. at 9 lbs I notice no performance drop at all and am seeing 8700 on hard long pulls. I do have a tendency to hit the rev limiter on 13 at times depending on conditions but the more HP you are making the less critical the clutching seems to be.

That's good to know, that's the only thing I've been thinking about that was making me wonder if I should just set boost and go.

At 8500 to 8600 on 8-9 lbs boost, according to the math with the intake cam timing I used, he should be safe even on 87 octane if he wanted, so no, I'm not worried about low boost running 8500 to 8600. Yes, high boost (12 lbs) he will run 91 octane fuel. If it goes over 12 lbs of boost it is setup to pull timing out with the ignition module.

One other question, was the 11 pounds achieved with the original wastegate or was that the upgraded wastegate?
 
I like the switch mine is pretty wicked on high and mainly use it for lake and radar runs. the 9 is so much power that when trail riding at 80 to 90 mph I can burp the throttle on a little bump and stand it on end. 13 with the Hygear coupler in it still wants to bring the nose up from 40 mph to 100 under wot acceleration and it goes to about 3' if I stay in it.

Yes you need the upgraded quick spool waste gate.
 
He is now set up very close to mine and maybe with the module able to tune it better but here are the numbers from when Allen did mine. MrSled was 131 hp at 11#'s in 80 deg weather. Mine pulled 143.65 at 12#'s which is just about dead on for the rule of just over 10 hp per # of boost. I am running wiseco low comp pistons instead of head shim. After Allen set mine in warmer weather last fall In much colder weather I gained 1 # and see 13 all the time when on the high switch setting.

Dyno Sheet 12#s boost.jpg
 


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