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What The @#$% Now?

Ok, now I am stumped. Putting all the plastics on including the headlight pod and I have 4 - silver colored 10mm headed bolts sitting in my tray where all the plastics fasteners are in. Can't figure it out. Exhaust cover bolts are in (front and rear), headlight pod bolts are in. Where do these go?? I am usually good at re assembling. I have magnetic trays for each section of the sled. Plastics tray, left side front and rear tray, right side front and rear tray , engine bay tray etc..
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Well did any friends drop by? I once rebuilt a 455 Pontiac motor for a guy. When the block came back from the machine shop I reassembled it, only to find out I had two bolts left over. One of my so called friends had dropped two bolts in the mix.

I would have thought headlight pod. There are some like that for the electronic stuff on the frame front of motor but you have the front assembled. Good luck!
 
LOL. No one came over to help me drink my beer while I worked on the sled.
My dad did something like that to me when I was 14 doing my first water pump on his 73 350 Impala.
When I was all done he threw an extra bolt under the car while I went to clean up and said " Hey, there is a bolt left over"
He still laughs about.
 
They look like the bolts that hold your bottom side panels on, the one you take off to change the oil, you may have only put two in each side to hold the panels in place where there should be four, just a thought.
 
I think you guys nailed it with the coil bolts. Went out for a 55 mile ride this evening. Ran just like it used to. No issues on the ride. Got back home and noticed I had no reverse beeper. Popped off the side panel and yup, I forgot to plug the switch in. Also noticed a little oil on the plastics below the oil tank. Turns out I forgot to tighten that clamp on the hose to the tank. Could have been bad if the hose slipped off.:o|:o|
Feels good to be back riding instead of wrenching. I think I spent more time trying to diagnose than doing the r and r of the engine.
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They look like the bolts that hold your bottom side panels on, the one you take off to change the oil, you may have only put two in each side to hold the panels in place where there should be four, just a thought.
I would agree with that but my old sled has those darn Philips heeded bolts there
 
I don't have a clutch alignment tool. I know the c to c is bang on from the small jig I made but will need to make something up to check the off set.
 
Nice thing about the 55 mile shake down run was I used less fuel than the first ride I did this year. First ride at the 30 mile mark I was 3 bars down. Now at the 55 mile mark I am 3 bars down.
Now weather and trails conditions were not the best on the first ride but I have never had such bad fuel consumption before in similar conditions.
So, First ride; Temp was -6*c or 20*f. Trail was sloppy but lakes were firm ( and there was a lot of lake crossings). Took a passenger ( 110ish lbs) Group speed was slower than my usually pace. Dreaded Apex drone speed. After the halfway point I couldn't take it anymore and opened it up on the lake portions. Top dream -o-meter top speed was 104mph. Short runs due to constant ice road crossings. From fuel stop to trailer was 90 miles. My fuel light came on at 74 miles. This has never happened before.
Upon tear down the sled had one broken flex pipe and both Y pipe to collector gaskets were toast.
Second ride; Temp was -11*c or 12*f. Trails were ditch trails and were firm with minimal snow coverage. Pace was quick. No where near the dreaded drone speed. Dream-o-meter displayed 114mph. Had to back out as the next road crossing was coming up. quick. No passenger. Logged 55 miles and 3 bars down on the fuel display.

I have run with broken Y pipes, shot donuts, broken collector, broken W arm and a passenger ( maybe not all at the same time ) before but never had terrible fuel consumption like that first trip.
I don't believe Cyl #3 failed from fuel wash out. Damage looks like a foreign object. Now the only thing I can surmise is that while drilling out rivets on the tunnel while replacing the rear exchanger is that some how when I punched out the inner steel pin of a rivet to prep for drilling that the pin bounced off the track and entered the rear of the right Y pipe. When I hoisted the back end up to purge the air this pin rolled down the pipe and entered into the cyl. For it to enter in, the engine must have stopped on the exhaust stroke of cyl#3. Seems impossible but that was the only time cyl#3 was remotely unprotected from the outside world. I don't think a ring broke as there would be scarring on the cyl wall, which there is not. On the other hand there where no foreign objects in the exhaust pipes when I check them.
This failure still baffles me. From running well when checking exhaust repairs to losing a cyl when checking the coolant system. No starts ups in between.:o|:o|:o|:o|.
When I have time I will completely tear down the engine and get a closer look at cyl#3. Maybe there will be an "A ha! " moment or maybe not.
 


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