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1,000ft


jonlafon1 said:
3/3 on that black tan? I got one to try this year with ultamax
Click to expand...
Gonna depend on helix which You already know but 2-3 worked well with straight 35 and ultimax. Im guessing 38 or over youll be atleast 3-3. Initial pressure seems to be little less than black orange and good finish pressure. Seemed to cruise at lower rpm than black orange in my experience.
 
jonlafon1 said:
3/3 on that black tan? I got one to try this year with ultamax
Click to expand...

The tan is stiffer that the B/O on the finish by quite a bit. When I tried the wrap on the tan at 50, it had less start pressure than the B/O at 90, and the tan had more finish pressure than the B/O on my drill press scale. The Tan is a pretty sought spring on the finish, bet be using a lot of helix angle with that one, which I know you do, but for guys with 37-35 finish angles on Dalton helix or stock helix, the B/O may be a better option. I don't think I'd ever wrap the tan up at 60, the finish on the scale is pretty extreme at that much wrap.

Myself I run the B/O at 90 with Hi-Torque rollers which roll much easier then any other roller I've tested on the scale, and rollers make a HUGE difference on spring/belt pressure in the secondary ultimately. Stock rollers in comparison need much less spring and roll very hard making of more belt squeeze on the upshift.
 
What’s big pump?
Not pump gas?
lol. Seems to me that mine always liked a splash of something added
 
KnappAttack said:
The tan is stiffer that the B/O on the finish by quite a bit. When I tried the wrap on the tan at 50, it had less start pressure than the B/O at 90, and the tan had more finish pressure than the B/O on my drill press scale. The Tan is a pretty sought spring on the finish, bet be using a lot of helix angle with that one, which I know you do, but for guys with 37-35 finish angles on Dalton helix or stock helix, the B/O may be a better option. I don't think I'd ever wrap the tan up at 60, the finish on the scale is pretty extreme at that much wrap.

Myself I run the B/O at 90 with Hi-Torque rollers which roll much easier then any other roller I've tested on the scale, and rollers make a HUGE difference on spring/belt pressure in the secondary ultimately. Stock rollers in comparison need much less spring and roll very hard making of more belt squeeze on the upshift.
Click to expand...
Thanks Mike. Great info right here in your post. Yea I noticed on MS20 my belt started to slip up top with a 38 and the black orange wrapped 6/3.. ONLY time I ever had a issue up top was with MS20.. I rarely run that tune so maybe i will tune that tan on that tune.. I think its hard to beat that Dalton black orange at 6/3
 
Trailleader said:
What’s big pump?
Not pump gas?
lol. Seems to me that mine always liked a splash of something added
Click to expand...
Pretty sure they mean a bigger fuel pump then the stock fuel pump. The MS 17 lean which is what I ran @Bents you need a bigger/better fuel pump for..
 
I got that. Haha
Anything over 270 hp is wise to add a bigger pump we thought when they came out in 17.
I’m saying I also add something to the gas with those tunes in n Wi because the 91 oct is probably more likely 87.
 
Last edited:
@jtmetal I run the 300 tune and upgraded the pump just a bit to a 190lph. I data log and it is almost always removing fuel. That said, I upgraded because I didn't want my pump to get a bit weak over time and put me in a bad place. I also haven't had long runs on a real cold night or with my 3" muffler now. Previously I had a Sandale stock modified 2.5". There is a big difference so it is possible I need all the pump can give now when all the stars align. If I added any other performance parts to mine I'd do the pump with regulator next.
 
jtmetal said:
Are you being serious? I was going to run the MS17 (280+/-) tune and TD says its not required!
Click to expand...
100 percent serious. ITs cheap especially if u don’t have data logging or an AFR module.

I know what TD says and their not wrong but id rather be on the safe side hence why I saId
IMHO

I think someone crossed the stock one and it was like 130 lph out of a 4 wheeler
 
1nc 2000 said:
Knock protection will be your friend here.
Click to expand...
snowdust said:
@jtmetal I run the 300 tune and upgraded the pump just a bit to a 190lph. I data log and it is almost always removing fuel. That said, I upgraded because I didn't want my pump to get a bit weak over time and put me in a bad place. I also haven't had long runs on a real cold night or with my 3" muffler now. Previously I had a Sandale stock modified 2.5". There is a big difference so it is possible I need all the pump can give now when all the stars align. If I added any other performance parts to mine I'd do the pump with regulator next.
Click to expand...
NYTurbo said:
100 percent serious. ITs cheap especially if u don’t have data logging or an AFR module.

I know what TD says and their not wrong but id rather be on the safe side hence why I saId
IMHO

I think someone crossed the stock one and it was like 130 lph out of a 4 wheeler
Click to expand...
Well....I haven't spent time dealing with the upgraded fuel system, I will work towards that.
Going to run my stock pump for a short time.
Snowdust, I am running a 3" muffler myself.
Good news is....I've got an upgraded intercooler coming. So that & a little boostane, mixed with knock protection and I should be good to go on short 1,200ft runs....maybe 1 or 2 runs to 2,000, just to see what's what.
Thanks for all the replies....I'm going to get that buttoned up!
 
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