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Starting over....lol!

137s hook up good
144s are better
Would you like to try my 2.5 inch muffler?
3 or 3.5 makes most hp
Lots of what you want to do here
I also have an ecu with hurricane tunes if you want to try that with the flasher
I can’t seem able to get rid of it so it’s just collecting dust
Also get a dragy
Easiest change monitor there is
Or there is a whole zr9000 here I can do rods and pistons and head studs with a turbo for you too
Lol
 

137s hook up good
144s are better
Would you like to try my 2.5 inch muffler?
3 or 3.5 makes most hp
Lots of what you want to do here
I also have an ecu with hurricane tunes if you want to try that with the flasher
I can’t seem able to get rid of it so it’s just collecting dust
Also get a dragy
Easiest change monitor there is
Or there is a whole zr9000 here I can do rods and pistons and head studs with a turbo for you too
Lol
I'm not looking for hero status. I guess I was trying to figure out a way to utilize my home made muffler & use lower hp tune, to increase traction and to turn off deto light without the use of Boostane.
And as I continue to review this, new to me, world of performance. I've made one critical error. Muffler & size.
I make a bet most here, including yourself have met with similar issue at some point.
With that said, I agree with you in that a 3" muffler would be in my best interest, as 2.5" in any configuration is not maximizing 18psi+/- of boost, if I was too continue in that direction.
It's just my limited experience, seems as thou it's easier to do more with less.
ZR9000....let me think about it. Haha.
BTW, Shouldn't you be putting a big bore kit on, upgrading your turbo, recalculating C16 use or something, on the Boost?!?! Haha. Breathe....it wasn't that bad.
 
I know I know
do you have afr module
I have two of those laying around too
I think they’re the same on the gap stuff

I also have two 1100 motors here fully built
There ya go
We can put one of those in lol
Time to clean all of it out !!!!
 
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I know I know
do you have afr module
I have two of those laying around too
I think they’re the same on the gap stuff

I also have two 1100 motors here fully built
There ya go
We can put one of those in lol
Time to clean all of it out !!!!
AFR module, unless it's stock, no I do not have one.
Oh....1100 motor, the answer to my prayers?!?!
No, too much vibration for me. I like smooth & easy.
 
This
 

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Yes! I've already went with 1.63" trail studs with angled backers up the gut.
I wonder if straight 1.575" on the outside would work??? If so, which Woody's stud?
View attachment 171698
I have use woodies gold diggers for decades. Although some studs be better for drag racing, the gold diggers are almost indestructible and have easily put many thousands of miles on them through the years. Put them in tight and recheck them a few times as they take a set. It has been common to give them a little more after they run a bit.
 
I have use woodies gold diggers for decades. Although some studs be better for drag racing, the gold diggers are almost indestructible and have easily put many thousands of miles on them through the years. Put them in tight and recheck them a few times as they take a set. It has been common to give them a little more after they run a bit.
Understood....would I go with the same length I'm using now (1.63") for the outside, or scale back to 1.575?
Just looking for clarification
 
Here is my set up. I have run this set up for many years with no issues.
 

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Yes, I'll need to invest in a new track in the off-season to accomplish this.
Thank you, Upstater57
If you buy a new track, get one that is fully clipped without the "quiet pads". Got my last one for my 129 direct from Tracks USA.
 


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