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3500 miles driveshaft and bearing smoked


Nice work Stain.....I commented on other thread, but I see pics here. Great work.

Would you just use one set screw or would two be better? Opposite sides. Any way to get set screw with POINTs maybe to bite into race better?

How much thickness is there(shaft wall) to thread?

Any chance you got a pic from the hollow end, to see the set screw from that view?


Thanks, great work here.
Dan
 
Nice. You should send that to yamacrap engineering department.
Dennis have you already installed your ts bov? If so did your top spin while trying to losen threds on top of valve?
 
There is a inner circlip on shaft.....has anyone wondered if we remove that inner clip altogether, and try to find a collar style bearing like APex had?

Dan
 
Pete it's a hollow shaft...gotta tighten from WITHIN the hollow end of shaft.

Dan
Da,yes so right,i missed that Dan,what is that a couple inches in from opening. Yup that would work. Thanks Dan again.
 
Dennis have you already installed your ts bov? If so did your top spin while trying to losen threds on top of valve?

Yes I could move the top banjo bolt fitting to match the orientation of the small hose that goes on the top of the BOV from the sled.

My buddy just bought one and we compared his also. It also allowed that banjo bolt fitting to move with a bit of force.

Left both of them alone whereas the banjo bolt fittings were very snug.
 
Nice work Stain.....I commented on other thread, but I see pics here. Great work.

Would you just use one set screw or would two be better? Opposite sides. Any way to get set screw with POINTs maybe to bite into race better?

How much thickness is there(shaft wall) to thread?

Any chance you got a pic from the hollow end, to see the set screw from that view?


Thanks, great work here.
Dan
I thought about putting 2 screws in, 180 degrees apart but in the end I went with one. DONT OVERTIGHTEN!
The set screw had a cup on the bottom. I red loc-tited it in.
I did not get any pictures from the hollow end---my bad.
I cant really remember how thick the shaft was, I did this last fall. Not real thick. I went with @1/4 inch set screw
The shaft drilled pretty easily
The last picture is of the tool I used to tighten the screw.
As you can see my driveshaft already had some wear on it. That shaft only had @225 miles on it!!!
Strangely enough, I just replaced the same bearing on my old Viper this weekend with 8600 miles on it and the shaft showed almost no wear
 
I thought about putting 2 screws in, 180 degrees apart but in the end I went with one. DONT OVERTIGHTEN!
The set screw had a cup on the bottom. I red loc-tited it in.
I did not get any pictures from the hollow end---my bad.
I cant really remember how thick the shaft was, I did this last fall. Not real thick. I went with @1/4 inch set screw
The shaft drilled pretty easily
The last picture is of the tool I used to tighten the screw.
As you can see my driveshaft already had some wear on it. That shaft only had @225 miles on it!!!
Strangely enough, I just replaced the same bearing on my old Viper this weekend with 8600 miles on it and the shaft showed almost no wear
Yea they cant hit the numbers. Buddies sled has 6000 and no sign of wear.
 
Yea they cant hit the numbers. Buddies sled has 6000 and no sign of wear.
Steve what tap size do you think it will take for that cat shaft I bought steve,i will tap it and bolt it in place so it stays put under power.
 
Both shafts drilled and tapped,driveshaft back in,but break does not want to be blead well,muffler all back togeather,new cat RR shaft tapped and bolts ready to go,just waiting for my inner bogie wheels to come in,and will be able to put skid back in. Yes I did drill tap and install a set screw in the driveshaft,it had .007 thou between the race and shaft,so peening the shaft would not have been enough.
 


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