3500 miles driveshaft and bearing smoked

[cannondale27]

Just buy a new bearing and keep trying it on shafts till you find one that fits right. If it doesnt fit right dont buy it. I Peened my original and it made 9000mi before I decided to run introverts. So I cant Warranty it. Should have. Everyone with a issue should be sending this in. That is how changes get made. If the fit is right and the bearing is maintained every year it will all last 10000mi or more.

 

[Motorhead]

Hi dennis,yes all back togeather,now only problem is brakes,they just don't want to bleed enough,and keep a good handle full of brake,i can pull them to the bars easy,dont mater how many times you pump them,and you can see it breathing from caliper on top above the bleeder,where the two halfes come togeather,there are two sides to the pistons and two seals,they al went back togeather quite easy,but just wont bleed out,dont seem full of air either,just darn funny they wont pump up hard. The 8.5 oz bottle of chaincase fluid don't seem like enough,cant even see it in the view window. Changed all fluids and no leaks,larson 4-whel kit very nice,track tight but does not sem to have much adjustment side to side,wheels wider it seems. How many miles did you have on that track dennis,am hoping it don't stretch a lot any more?Almost forgot to answer your question on bearing,yes you could still wobble it some,set screw did its job,and Yamaha took care of the bill,way to go Yamaha,thank you.

That track has about 400 miles on it.

Sounds like you have an air bound system or your master cylinder is giving you a hard time, maybe the cover. Are you following the steps from your manual Pete ? A bit different then my usual auto brake bleeds of past. Brake bleeding kit may help if all else fails.

Not sure how many ounces of oil the chain case takes, but I usually use a strong narrow beam flashlight when filling, so I can see the level prior to it reaching the viewing glass. My problem is putting too much in, so that, it is more then half way up the glass when done dammit!!! Must be more then 8 ounces huh? I usually buy the 32 oz syn and get atleast 2 fills per.

 

[cannondale27]

A syringe and back bleeding sometimes works too.

 

[snowbeast]

A syringe and back bleeding sometimes works too.

Steve can you exsplain a little more please.

 

[74Nitro]

Hi dennis,yes all back togeather,now only problem is brakes,they just don't want to bleed enough,and keep a good handle full of brake,i can pull them to the bars easy,dont mater how many times you pump them,and you can see it breathing from caliper on top above the bleeder,where the two halfes come togeather,there are two sides to the pistons and two seals,they al went back togeather quite easy,but just wont bleed out,dont seem full of air either,just darn funny they wont pump up hard. The 8.5 oz bottle of chaincase fluid don't seem like enough,cant even see it in the view window. Changed all fluids and no leaks,larson 4-whel kit very nice,track tight but does not sem to have much adjustment side to side,wheels wider it seems. How many miles did you have on that track dennis,am hoping it don't stretch a lot any more?Almost forgot to answer your question on bearing,yes you could still wobble it some,set screw did its job,and Yamaha took care of the bill,way to go Yamaha,thank you.

Snowbeast, have you tried bleeding at the master cylinder first? I often have to do this on sleds, bikes or atv's. Just treat the banjo bolt that holds the line on at the master cylinder like a bleed screw.

 

[Shagnos]

A syringe and back bleeding sometimes works too.

Been using a Phoenix injector for years. Bleeding brakes, hydraulic clutch systems etc. Easy one man job.
https://www.ebay.com/p/Reverse-Flui...ix-Systems/1156455670?iid=202449326590&chn=ps

 

[dgjr636]

Old fashion, but works great. Old style oil squirt can with brake fluid and hose has always worked for me. Easier to push air pockets up then down.
Connect oil can to bleed screw with a tight vinyl hose. Crack bleed screw and squirt brake fluid from bottom up to master.
Once fluid has reached master just just pump the brake lever a few times until no air surfaces. Never failed me yet on MX Bikes and sleds. Best way I ever found to bleed.

 

[Motorhead]

Using an instrument to force oil through your caliper bleeding screw up through the lines and into the reservoir. Thus purging all air from the lines. Brake bleeder NAPA , Pheonix injector, syringe and Tygon tubing, etc.

 

[Motorhead]

View attachment 143850 Old fashion, but works great. Old style oil squirt can with brake fluid and hose has always worked for me. Easier to push air pockets up then down.
Connect oil can to bleed screw with a tight vinyl hose. Crack bleed screw and squirt brake fluid from bottom up to master.
Once fluid has reached master just just pump the brake lever a few times until no air surfaces. Never failed me yet on MX Bikes and sleds. Best way I ever found to bleed.

Nice cheap trick!

 

[snowbeast]

Snowbeast, have you tried bleeding at the master cylinder first? I often have to do this on sleds, bikes or atv's. Just treat the banjo bolt that holds the line on at the master cylinder like a bleed screw.

No but we did look at that,and may give it a try,we will lose all our snow and ice again after this weekend mess coming.

 

[Pstn head]

Rocker Dan's on to something with the bearing fixing idea. I thought maybe (I say maybe becouse I'm no engineer) but along with peening the shaft like Cannondale mentions would a rubber O-ring sandwiched between the brake rotor and bearing hold up ?
The way I see it, the rubber O-ring will squeeze the bearing against the rotor which is splined to the shaft and hopefully all will rotate together, not slip, and be one happy family. No?

 

[cannondale27]

Rocker Dan's on to something with the bearing fixing idea. I thought maybe (I say maybe becouse I'm no engineer) but along with peening the shaft like Cannondale mentions would a rubber O-ring sandwiched between the brake rotor and bearing hold up ?
The way I see it, the rubber O-ring will squeeze the bearing against the rotor which is splined to the shaft and hopefully all will rotate together, not slip, and be one happy family. No?

It would help but here is another flaw that I am surprised hasn't shown on Winders here. Doesn't really hurt anything but some have seen the clip shear right off taking some of the splines right with it. I suspect a siezed caliper piston is to blame but who knows.

 

[cannondale27]

Steve can you exsplain a little more please.

Just go to FleetFarm and get a big syringe in the ag dept. Fill it with brake fluid and attach a hose to syringe and bleeder. Force fluid up. If you guys have ever seen the masters guts it's kind of scary compared to the jap masters. Half the cups a nd o rings. Also make sure the Pistons in Caliper are not siezed and pushed in all the way for bleeding. Other thing to watch is the pad backing plates wear grooves into the caliper at bottom contact. Warranty this stuff. I did. Hayes makes some nice stuff but we got the cheapest brake system they offer and it shows.

 

[KnappAttack]

I got my new factory shaft and bearing today and measured .001" slip fit on them so nice and snug at least. I drilled a hole in the shaft and tapped a 1/4" 20 in it for a 3/8" deep set screw. I also added a thin o-ring behind the inner snap ring to grip the bearing against the disc like I used to do on the Doo's. Well on the Doo's it was always between the bearing and disc, but at least it holds things snug to the bearing, which it wasn't before.

I ended up needing to tap the disc and snap ring on the shaft to compress the o-ring some behind the bearing. I also added 3 small areas of green 648 loctite to the shaft to glue the bearing on. It's not going to spin on the shaft anymore!!! I also added some larger washers behind the bolts holding the bearing housing on to secure the assembly better to the tunnel.

 

[XP123]

I got my new factory shaft and bearing today and measured .001" slip fit on them so nice and snug at least. I drilled a hole in the shaft and tapped a 1/4" 20 in it for a 3/8" deep set screw. I also added a thin o-ring behind the inner snap ring to grip the bearing against the disc like I used to do on the Doo's. Well on the Doo's it was always between the bearing and disc, but at least it holds things snug to the bearing, which it wasn't before.

I ended up needing to tap the disc and snap ring on the shaft to compress the o-ring some behind the bearing. I also added 3 small areas of green 648 loctite to the shaft to glue the bearing on. It's not going to spin on the shaft anymore!!! I also added some larger washers behind the bolts holding the bearing housing on to secure the assembly better to the tunnel.




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Great job Mike! There is nothing like having to apply your own engineering and fix for another Cat hack job. I just can't get over this Yamaha Cat joint effort. One company has built its reputation on quality and great engineering and the other has more bad ideas than good ones. Can you guess which is which?

 

[KnappAttack]

Great job Mike! There is nothing like having to apply your own engineering and fix for another Cat hack job. I just can't get over this Yamaha Cat joint effort. One company has built its reputation on quality and great engineering and the other has more bad ideas than good ones. Can you guess which is which?

Oh yes I can. If I can belts to stay on this thing and clutch rollers to last, I may have it perfected! If not, it won't be long and I'll be back to Doo also. Just a dang shame a company can't get this right after the first time let alone after this many years.


One other thing I should point out on my new shaft is the slight change in driver sizing. I noticed a different size CNC relief cut around the drive sprockets and measured up a .040" larger size where the track rides on the diameter of the sprocket vs my old ones. Which means they have built more lead into the system which I feel is huge. I feel this will greatly improve the track ratcheting and speed of the machine. It doesn't take even one revolution of the track now for the track to bind up and try and climb the sprockets just pulling it around by hand. Most people would think this is bad and not correct and would rob speed with the track binding, but it is in fact a GOOD THING because as the power is put down the pitch needs to engage the lug coming on to the sprocket and not try to climb it right away and ratchet, so lead must be built into every lug on the sprocket so the one coming on can engage properly like that.

I'm hopeful the bearing won't spin and the track won't ratchet anymore.

Hey, at least the tolerance is tight on the bearing and the sprockets have been altered in size and configuration. Thats a plus!