Sasquatch
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- Yamaha's
mdkuni said:Another season with the ZX2! Current mileage on this skid is about 11,600.
Hyfax is still the original hyfax. I removed it this year and replaced it. There is still life on the original but I just don't want to worry about it. How many other skids can go over 11,000 miles on one set of hyfax? Impressive!
Wow 11,000 mile on the hyfax. I am struggling to get over a thousand on my 136. But I have now added an extra axle at the wear point in the rear between the last idlers and the rear axle. This seems to be the answer as the rest of the slider has little wear.
At 900 miles the hyfax was paper thin and only a few miles away from wearing the skid. I have around 4,000 miles and will be installing my 5th set of hyfax on the ZX2 now! I suspect its my rather large mass (drop the m) that is causing the wear.
STAIN
Lifetime Member
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I have over 5k on my hyfax and my ZX2 is a 136
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
Thanks guys for all of your information. I have an 07 Phazer that I just purchased and I ride an O3 RX1 with an X. I think it is the best skid I have ever been on. I have one big grin all day long. My mechanic who installed it is against the zx2 and says they are junk. I guess from what I read, these are holding up very well. I asked him to install this skid into my Phazer and he said he would not do it. I guess I will have to find some else to do it. Once you had the X, you can never go back.
STAIN
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Who is yor mechanic so we can avoid him.
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
He is a personal friend, I will keep that to myself.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
14,000 miles on this skid. Found a problem with the skid this last week. Well testing to resolve the vibration issue I have had since new, I was putting my rear wheels back on the rear axle. Once they were tightened down I grabbed the axle and was able to slide it up and back down on the right side. Not good. I removed every thing again and found the small plate that clamps to the rail had been worn down. I than later found it grooved the rail out as well. Therefore the plate and adjuster are touching before they can apply locking pressure to the rail.
My fix, I turned the worn plate around and drilled a new hole to match up the with the hole in the adjuster. I than had to increase the thickness of the rail so it would clamp. I took some sheet metal and cut two small strips and applied them to the rail with silicone. Let it dry overnight and I had good clamping pressure in the morning when I put everything back together. I can no longer move the axle. Much cheaper than a new rail!
I know that side had a bolt back way out once but I would not think that much damage could happen from one time. I guess that side must have been somewhat loose for some time at one point.
Also, as posted in another thread. My aluminum plates where the shock adjuster wrench goes are cracked (both sides). Denis informed me these are for compression only so I am not going to be concerned with replacing them.
Pictures of the damage below.
My fix, I turned the worn plate around and drilled a new hole to match up the with the hole in the adjuster. I than had to increase the thickness of the rail so it would clamp. I took some sheet metal and cut two small strips and applied them to the rail with silicone. Let it dry overnight and I had good clamping pressure in the morning when I put everything back together. I can no longer move the axle. Much cheaper than a new rail!
I know that side had a bolt back way out once but I would not think that much damage could happen from one time. I guess that side must have been somewhat loose for some time at one point.
Also, as posted in another thread. My aluminum plates where the shock adjuster wrench goes are cracked (both sides). Denis informed me these are for compression only so I am not going to be concerned with replacing them.
Pictures of the damage below.
Attachments
kinger
VIP Member
I just inspected my ZX2 and I have about 2mm of hyfax left and my plates are just starting to crack and haven't made it as far up in the plate or through yet. I have 2500 miles on the skid, hyfax will probably make 3000 miles, plate not sure if it worrys me or not.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Thanks for doing the work so we don't have to, it's easy for me to look after my skid when you guys have figured out the weak spots. Thanks a lot guys.
rxrider
rxrider
kinger
VIP Member
What is the plate even there for? My cracks are very slight and just starting, wondering if I should drill a small hole to keep it from spreading.
rock doc
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rxrider said:Thanks for doing the work so we don't have to, it's easy for me to look after my skid when you guys have figured out the weak spots. Thanks a lot guys.
rxrider
x2...I love this site.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
kinger said:What is the plate even there for? My cracks are very slight and just starting, wondering if I should drill a small hole to keep it from spreading.
Direct from Denis Boivin:
"...Is not a major issue. Is a compression fatigue cracks from the rail bending frequency. Never had this problem during fatigue test. Maybe a poor heat treatment in aluminum 6061-T6
... As I said you can do all your season with those cracks there. This aluminum plate is working in compression only to give more stiffeness to the plastic rail."
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Over 15,000 on the skid. The two main arms are showing some wear on the exterior and where the shafts go through. It might be time to replace the rear arm. There is a decent amount of play in it. (After talking to AD, it was determined that this play was a non issue)
I could use some pictures from someone else's ZX2. I need pictures of the revolver plate installed. I need the picture standing over the skid on both sides as I included below. I am trying to figure out if everything is setting correctly of if there is just so much slop in the rear arm that it is now rubbing on the rail. Notice how one side sticks out farther than the other side. See pictures below. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.
I could use some pictures from someone else's ZX2. I need pictures of the revolver plate installed. I need the picture standing over the skid on both sides as I included below. I am trying to figure out if everything is setting correctly of if there is just so much slop in the rear arm that it is now rubbing on the rail. Notice how one side sticks out farther than the other side. See pictures below. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.
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rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
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- 59
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- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
15000 miles? WOW.
Do you have the install guide, there is a exploded view of the assembly. I can check my skid, it's on the workbench, will take pics and post. If I forget to post, please PM or email me a reminder.
Do you have the install guide, there is a exploded view of the assembly. I can check my skid, it's on the workbench, will take pics and post. If I forget to post, please PM or email me a reminder.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
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- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
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- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
Only wear in my skid is the aluminum part on the right hand side where you adjust the shock spring.
I got a new plate from ADB, problem solved.
I got a new plate from ADB, problem solved.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
rxrider said:15000 miles? WOW.
Do you have the install guide, there is a exploded view of the assembly. I can check my skid, it's on the workbench, will take pics and post. If I forget to post, please PM or email me a reminder.
Yep, 15,000, this skid is a champ!
I looked at the parts diagram but with it only showing one rail I am not certain. Maybe I am more of a visual person.
Do you see the difference in the two sides in the photos I posted? Your pictures would be a great help.
Anyone else getting rubbing on the rear arm?
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