Pbadgley
Extreme
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 66
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Inuvik NT
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2004 Yamaha RX Warrior
I'm running an Ice Ripper XT 1.25" lug. Since this is just a RipSaw with studs that may be my problem. I plan on extending the skid from 136 to 144" this summer so a new track will be going in too. What would you recommend? I like the Ice Ripper because it is light weight and comes studded but if this is why I'm always spinning than it has to go.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
I live too far away to have any ide of what your riding condition is like. But over here the RipSaw is junk, our trails are mostly very hard packed from no grooming and in the loose stuff.....it's not any good.
Anyone close to Pbadgley have any input on what works best in your riding condition.
In general the Cobra works well, it's 1.25/1.32 lug height track, can be studded at this lug height.
Anyone close to Pbadgley have any input on what works best in your riding condition.
In general the Cobra works well, it's 1.25/1.32 lug height track, can be studded at this lug height.
Pbadgley
Extreme
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2011
- Messages
- 66
- Age
- 52
- Location
- Inuvik NT
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 2004 Yamaha RX Warrior
It is mostly groomed trails here but I occasionally like to veer of course and head for the deep powder in the woods. No big mountains here but the odd rolling hillsides. I like to take my sled to the races for fun and could really use that extra bite.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
21,193 miles on the ZX2! Took her apart this weekend for inspection. Here are the results:
Swing arms continue to show signs of wear on the exterior but it is just a couple contact points. Nothing to be concerned with in the least. I have been keeping an eye on the slop of the two main arms on the mounting shafts. They both have slop but there is plenty of material left. Again, nothing to be concerned about.
I have been replacing all of my wheels at the beginning of the season, and this year was no different. The front inside wheels as usual see the most wear. I typically chunk those wheels by 2,000-3,000 miles. On top of the preseason wheel replacement I probably replace an additional 8 wheels throughout the season.
When removing the bolt that bolts into the lower shock rod, the bolt snapped in half. Thankfully I was able to extract the bolt with a bolt extractor. Now that I have snapped off a bolt, I will be replacing every single bolt in this skid, including the tunnel mounting bolts. I don't want to take any chances and I am sure they have all been subject to a lot of stress in 21,000 miles.
Once I removed the shocks I noticed the revolver plate was not rotating. It took quite a bit of leverage with a screw driver through one of the revolver plate holes to get the revolver to move. I pulled apart the revolver on both sides. One bearing could not be turned by hand and the other was quite rough. I never thought these bearings would need to be replaced, but it is past time. I am sure this was affecting performance.
Two of the rubber bumpers in the revolver are showing signs of wear and will be replaced while two still look new. Two are the original soft material and two are the newer harder redesigned bumpers. I would imagine the transfer stroke sees much less abuse then the coupling stroke. The newer bumpers have probably been installed for over 15,000 miles.
The stainless bolts I installed to replace the pins in the revolver are showing signs of wear and need replacing. The revolver plate has started to cut into the bolts. This slop has also caused the revolver plate holes to enlarge slightly.
Next, I inspected the lower shock rod. I have been running the brass bushings and the bushings have been wearing into the rod. The rod has quite the indent now and will be replaced. This rod has about 10,000 miles on it. I would much rather put a stainless steel shaft back in instead of the aluminum one. I have looked for one without much success and will most likely buy another stock shaft.
The top shock bushings are worn out and will need replacing (this is the original set). I also noticed some slight grooving on the top rod. Not enough to convince me to replace the rod though.
Hyfax have 5,800 miles on them and have life left. Although I will probably replace to start the season fresh.
After 12,000 miles the rubber hose I installed to keep my limiter strap from moving is starting to chunk out. Although, not sure I will replace yet.
The limiter strap is showing signs of wear. As usual there were a couple stray cords that I cinched up with a torch. There are also a couple small chunks out of the strap, but it is not worth replacing.
A note on the shocks. I did have the shocks revalved last year to help resist bottoming. The compression stroke was stiffened up. This certainly helped with the hard hits.
Still going strong! Need to take care of some maintenance items and hopefully she will be ready to rock for another 21,000 miles! Awesome skid! I can't say enough good things about it!
Swing arms continue to show signs of wear on the exterior but it is just a couple contact points. Nothing to be concerned with in the least. I have been keeping an eye on the slop of the two main arms on the mounting shafts. They both have slop but there is plenty of material left. Again, nothing to be concerned about.
I have been replacing all of my wheels at the beginning of the season, and this year was no different. The front inside wheels as usual see the most wear. I typically chunk those wheels by 2,000-3,000 miles. On top of the preseason wheel replacement I probably replace an additional 8 wheels throughout the season.
When removing the bolt that bolts into the lower shock rod, the bolt snapped in half. Thankfully I was able to extract the bolt with a bolt extractor. Now that I have snapped off a bolt, I will be replacing every single bolt in this skid, including the tunnel mounting bolts. I don't want to take any chances and I am sure they have all been subject to a lot of stress in 21,000 miles.
Once I removed the shocks I noticed the revolver plate was not rotating. It took quite a bit of leverage with a screw driver through one of the revolver plate holes to get the revolver to move. I pulled apart the revolver on both sides. One bearing could not be turned by hand and the other was quite rough. I never thought these bearings would need to be replaced, but it is past time. I am sure this was affecting performance.
Two of the rubber bumpers in the revolver are showing signs of wear and will be replaced while two still look new. Two are the original soft material and two are the newer harder redesigned bumpers. I would imagine the transfer stroke sees much less abuse then the coupling stroke. The newer bumpers have probably been installed for over 15,000 miles.
The stainless bolts I installed to replace the pins in the revolver are showing signs of wear and need replacing. The revolver plate has started to cut into the bolts. This slop has also caused the revolver plate holes to enlarge slightly.
Next, I inspected the lower shock rod. I have been running the brass bushings and the bushings have been wearing into the rod. The rod has quite the indent now and will be replaced. This rod has about 10,000 miles on it. I would much rather put a stainless steel shaft back in instead of the aluminum one. I have looked for one without much success and will most likely buy another stock shaft.
The top shock bushings are worn out and will need replacing (this is the original set). I also noticed some slight grooving on the top rod. Not enough to convince me to replace the rod though.
Hyfax have 5,800 miles on them and have life left. Although I will probably replace to start the season fresh.
After 12,000 miles the rubber hose I installed to keep my limiter strap from moving is starting to chunk out. Although, not sure I will replace yet.
The limiter strap is showing signs of wear. As usual there were a couple stray cords that I cinched up with a torch. There are also a couple small chunks out of the strap, but it is not worth replacing.
A note on the shocks. I did have the shocks revalved last year to help resist bottoming. The compression stroke was stiffened up. This certainly helped with the hard hits.
Still going strong! Need to take care of some maintenance items and hopefully she will be ready to rock for another 21,000 miles! Awesome skid! I can't say enough good things about it!
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rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
My confidence in the ZX-2 skid rose another 10 notches with this review. I know the skid can take a beating even in my 350 HP sled, running top speed of 142 MPH or 245 KMH. I do not have nowhere near your mileage and probably never will, but it's good to know the ZX-2 will last a long time with very little maintenance.
Thank you for the detailed report
Thank you for the detailed report
kinger
VIP Member
Yes I pulled mine and did a inspection expecting to replace a bunch of bushings and wear items, nothing was needed except the shock bushings on the top. This skid has around 5000 miles with 3000 under a 250hp sled, ditchbanging, jumping when I can. Friggen AMAZING.
My shocks were shot (probably because of riding style) and I had Hygear revalve them this year, as they suppoesdly have the hot recipe for same big bump performance but better stutter bump performance.
If people that are doing any revalves, mods, etc to thier stock suspensions they would cry if they knew how good a ZX2 is and all the money they wasted messing with the stock rear suspension.
My shocks were shot (probably because of riding style) and I had Hygear revalve them this year, as they suppoesdly have the hot recipe for same big bump performance but better stutter bump performance.
If people that are doing any revalves, mods, etc to thier stock suspensions they would cry if they knew how good a ZX2 is and all the money they wasted messing with the stock rear suspension.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2003
- Messages
- 7,355
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Lakselv - 70N & 25E
- Country
- Norway
- Snowmobile
- 2014 Phazer XTX, 2013 Phazer RTX, 2008 Apex RTX, 2007 Warrior, 2006 Attak
AMEN brother
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
I want to say a big thanks for MDKUNI for all of your information this past couple of years. I am an expert X lover and just purchased a ZX2 for my Phazer. I can't wait. Keep the information coming. When most people say it can't, you are proving it can!
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Boston RX1 said:I want to say a big thanks for MDKUNI for all of your information this past couple of years. I am an expert X lover and just purchased a ZX2 for my Phazer. I can't wait. Keep the information coming. When most people say it can't, you are proving it can!
Thanks, that certainly makes it worth it! Glad I could help.
Let us know how you like the skid in the Phazer. I have spent some time on a Phazer GT and think they are great sleds. I can only imagine the fun you will have with a ZX2 underneath! I imagine it will lower the ride height some?
Boston RX1
TY 4 Stroke Master
I had an RX1 with an expert in it and absolutely loved it. I just purchased an 09 Nytro with an expert in it and wanted to try something different. There is nothing like the X, I don't care what anyone says. Thanks again.
DigitalFusion
VIP Member
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2011
- Messages
- 1,152
- Location
- Chisago City, MN
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 14 Viper LTX, 10 Turbo Phazer MTX, 08 Phazer, 88 SnoScoot
kinger said:If people that are doing any revalves, mods, etc to thier stock suspensions they would cry if they knew how good a ZX2 is and all the money they wasted messing with the stock rear suspension.
This thread, and that line right there^ are one of the major reasons there is a ZX2 on its way to me right now!
kinger
VIP Member
Awesome DigitalFusion! Keep us updated on how you like it!
I'll second the thanks to MDKUNI. Been very helpful over the years and just makes me pound my ZX2 even more cause I know it will handle it!!
I'll second the thanks to MDKUNI. Been very helpful over the years and just makes me pound my ZX2 even more cause I know it will handle it!!
DUTCH OVEN
Extreme
MDKUNI when u replaced the pins in the revolver with the bolts, how tight did u tighten them. This is an awsome site, 0 miles om ZX2, After reading all of your posts,and everyone elses, I see I need to do some small tweeks to make this suspension that much better. Also what is the best setup for lake riding, best transfer, top speed, Thanks.
kinger
VIP Member
I run the shock preload at 4 setting and the revolver set at the factory 2/4 setting. I ran 2/5 for a year or so and really liked that but it was making the sled a little hard to steer but man it railed.
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
kinger said:Awesome DigitalFusion! Keep us updated on how you like it!
I'll second the thanks to MDKUNI. Been very helpful over the years and just makes me pound my ZX2 even more cause I know it will handle it!!
Thanks bud! You and rxrider certainly have helped me as well and I appreciate it.
DUTCH OVEN said:MDKUNI when u replaced the pins in the revolver with the bolts, how tight did u tighten them. This is an awsome site, 0 miles om ZX2, After reading all of your posts,and everyone elses, I see I need to do some small tweeks to make this suspension that much better. Also what is the best setup for lake riding, best transfer, top speed, Thanks.
I basically set them the same as the pins were. If you put a pin in you will notice you can slide the pin and there is no clamping pressure. So I stopped tightening the nuts just before they contacted the plate.
I use 2 (transfer) and 4 (coupling) for the best all around performance.
You will hate metal skids after you have a ZX2!
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