DooZ
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
That's a full shift alright, but would it do it with a load on the drivetrain?
ROCKERDAN
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weird, mine wont even go near the top....my belt bottomed into secondary, is not even near top of primary,
that is a cat though correct?
that is a cat though correct?
drlee50
Newbie
You can see here the belt rode on the towers for a bit. All the way around .
After this broken belt I cleaned everything up spotless. Then ran it a bit on break in of new belt . made just a couple light pulls to 8500 and came back and saw fresh belt on top of the primary sheeves.
Yes, cat.
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After this broken belt I cleaned everything up spotless. Then ran it a bit on break in of new belt . made just a couple light pulls to 8500 and came back and saw fresh belt on top of the primary sheeves.
Yes, cat.
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ClutchMaster
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Will the smaller c to c make the belt seem too long? I have a cat but it I rev the motor, the belt will walk out of the primary . I have had belt marks on TOP of the primary sheeves. Free rev , the belt goes 1/2 the belt thickness out of the sheeve.
Every belt I've broken has been due to me getting out of it on a WOT pull and then quickly getting back on it. Belt slacks and then probably gets pulled above the primary and out of it and breaks. Didnt wait long enough for it to back shift. Maybe my c to c is too close?
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Wow I thought yamaha had Meatheads setting up the clutches, looks like Arctic Cat engineers have been smoking the good stuff!
Primary clutch should only bring the belt flush with the top of the sheave at a maximum. Secondary should never bottom out to stop the shifting so Center to Center shouldn’t cause this.............bad JuJu.
Is that the factory recommended belt?
KnappAttack
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I wouldn’t call that half belt out of the clutch. I’d say the top cogs are coming over the top of the primary. No issues there IMO.
Belts should never bottom in the secondary as they will pop when that happens.
C to C should have no effect on how long a belt lasts either. Its really irrelevant the C to C distance. It will only have an effect on final gearing or the amount of OD the secondary will get with a given belt length.
As long as the motor is in straight or lead ahead properly on the clutch side for twist back under power and offset is set proper at straight at 1:1 C to C will no make a bit of difference.
Like the Apex, the Winder really has little to no movement back in the clutch side when applying power. Mounts are very stiff holding the engine well.
I got lower clutch and belt temps by a long shot moving offset from 60mm to 58.8mm this last week, but snow season is coming to a halt here rapidly now. Think the answer is to get the offset in so belt lines up at 1:1 perfectly. I took the guard off to get a good look and could see it need to go in from the 60mm I had been running on mine to 58.8mm right now.
Belts should never bottom in the secondary as they will pop when that happens.
C to C should have no effect on how long a belt lasts either. Its really irrelevant the C to C distance. It will only have an effect on final gearing or the amount of OD the secondary will get with a given belt length.
As long as the motor is in straight or lead ahead properly on the clutch side for twist back under power and offset is set proper at straight at 1:1 C to C will no make a bit of difference.
Like the Apex, the Winder really has little to no movement back in the clutch side when applying power. Mounts are very stiff holding the engine well.
I got lower clutch and belt temps by a long shot moving offset from 60mm to 58.8mm this last week, but snow season is coming to a halt here rapidly now. Think the answer is to get the offset in so belt lines up at 1:1 perfectly. I took the guard off to get a good look and could see it need to go in from the 60mm I had been running on mine to 58.8mm right now.
drlee50
Newbie
Stock beltWow I thought yamaha had Meatheads setting up the clutches, looks like Arctic Cat engineers have been smoking the good stuff!
Primary clutch should only bring the belt flush with the top of the sheave at a maximum. Secondary should never bottom out to stop the shifting so Center to Center shouldn’t cause this.............bad JuJu.
Is that the factory recommended belt?
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drlee50
Newbie
Hard to pause the video just right but it's definitely past the cogs. And it has walked all the way out and went back in so definitely past half way too lolI wouldn’t call that half belt out of the clutch. I’d say the top cogs are coming over the top of the primary. No issues there IMO.
Belts should never bottom in the secondary as they will pop when that happens.
C to C should have no effect on how long a belt lasts either. Its really irrelevant the C to C distance. It will only have an effect on final gearing or the amount of OD the secondary will get with a given belt length.
As long as the motor is in straight or lead ahead properly on the clutch side for twist back under power and offset is set proper at straight at 1:1 C to C will no make a bit of difference.
Like the Apex, the Winder really has little to no movement back in the clutch side when applying power. Mounts are very stiff holding the engine well.
I got lower clutch and belt temps by a long shot moving offset from 60mm to 58.8mm this last week, but snow season is coming to a halt here rapidly now. Think the answer is to get the offset in so belt lines up at 1:1 perfectly. I took the guard off to get a good look and could see it need to go in from the 60mm I had been running on mine to 58.8mm right now.
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1nc 2000
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It's kind of funny that the aftermarket companies will post a ton of videos of drag racing and going fast across a lake, but not a single one of them will post what their offset is on the Yamaha clutches.
It's like a big secret they don't want the public to know.
It's like a big secret they don't want the public to know.
ClutchMaster
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Lol
Last edited:
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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That’s cause there is no majic offset number. Offset is totally dependent on Center to Center distance. I have said this 20 times now 8jp belt, with 262mm centers needs 58mm offset, 266mm centers needs 60mm offset.
Honestly I don’t think being off 1mm on your offset is going to Turn your sled into a belt blower. I would put money on the stock clutched winders blowing belts, most are out of parallel.
Looks like Arctic Cats have a whole different set if issues as usual, where do they get these engineers?
Ok.
My center to center is 263.5 mm.
What offset should I run?
ClutchMaster
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Anything you want cause you know it all
Last edited:
ClutchMaster
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Belt goes 1/2 way out easily
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If this is normal on the Arctic Cats and the primary can close enough to push the belt out of the top .......they should instantly fire ever clutch engineer they have on staff because they are incompetent.
DooZ
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I highly doubt this is a representative occurance, I know mine certainly doesn't do this. This is the first Cat clutch that I've heard of with this issue.....and no, I'm not a dealer...lolIf this is normal on the Arctic Cats and the primary can close enough to push the belt out of the top .......they should instantly fire ever clutch engineer they have on staff because they are incompetent.
ClutchMaster
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I measured mine with a tape measure on center to center of the hold down bolts.
263.5 mm center to center
62 mm offset
14xx miles on current belt.
Edit:
Belt snapped in half today. Sounded like a bomb going off!
Blew side panel clean off the sled.
Note to one's self, change belt before 14xx miles on it.
That’s amazing you were able to get your offset down to 58mm, you must have had 4 washers behind your clutch.
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You 2 need to stop. And don’t make me tell u again. You both know who you are. If I get one more complaint or see another battle. U both will have a vacation.
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