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Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement (3 cylinder engine 05-07)

rage said:
canadianhunter said:
Very good write up grizztracks.
Could you also write the procedure to remove the valve cover to check the valve timing ONLY ?
Ever since our two were done I have always felt that they did not idle very well and cold weather starting seemed poor, being especially had to keep idling untill good and warm when choke is turned off . I would like to check one just for piece of mind. Thanks

Hi
I just had mine done and when I started it up at the dealer it ran terrible, would n't idle. When I touched the throttle it would die. Did you have your timing checked? Was it off?

I would guess your out of time! Mine started right up and purred like a kitten when finished. Grizz's write up to check timing was spot on and worked like a charm. I bet some of the dealer mistakes on timing are due to the fact of the misprint in the service manuals on the timing mark being set at "I" instead of "II" or the fact that alot of dealers don't even pull the cover and just change the tensioner and the chain slips and they don't know it.
 

I checked both my sleds timing (you don't have to drain oil to check). Takes approx. one hour each (don't lose a valve cover seal) and they were both off, so back to the dealer. They corrected the timing and both idle perfectly. Drove them all last winter with the timing off and was ready to try and get rid of them. Cold weather starting is again very good.
 
rage said:
Hi
I just had mine done and when I started it up at the dealer it ran terrible, would n't idle. When I touched the throttle it would die. Did you have your timing checked? Was it off?

These things jump time very easily. It's normally the intake cam that jumps due to slack in the chain between the cams. If your replacing a tensioner or will be having someone else do it read all of this thread so that you know what's involved. One of the most important steps is to roll the engine by hand CW several rotations to make sure the new tensioner has taken up the slack then recheck the timing marks.
 
cam tensioner

grizztracks said:
rage said:
Hi
I just had mine done and when I started it up at the dealer it ran terrible, would n't idle. When I touched the throttle it would die. Did you have your timing checked? Was it off?

These things jump time very easily. It's normally the intake cam that jumps due to slack in the chain between the cams. If your replacing a tensioner or will be having someone else do it read all of this thread so that you know what's involved. One of the most important steps is to roll the engine by hand CW several rotations to make sure the new tensioner has taken up the slack then recheck the timing marks.

It was just finished by my dealer here in Minot on Friday. After paying the bill $800.00+ I went to load it up and I didn't know how long it was outside so I frist hit the key to start it and it wouldn't start, so I then flip the choke all the way on (just like I did before the repair) and it started right up but sounded like it was missing. After it started to sound like it was loading up I moved the choke lever about a 1/4 in until it started to smoothened out (just like I did before the repair). I kept doing this until choke was just about off (just like I did before the repair) and it wouldn't stay running. So I kept starting it but I had to feather the throttle to keep it running. When the light on the dash went out I flipped the choke all the way off but I couldn't take my hand off of the throttle to put it into reverse to back it up it kept dying on me. After messing with it I went back into the dealership and told them what was happening and they said it ran fine in the shop when it was warm. So I left it at the dealership and they are going to see if it is a cold weather thing. I asked them about the timing marks if he had checked it and he didn't acknowledge me. If it is out of time what will the sled act like if I take it out and drive it on the trail?
 
The timing definitely jumped which is causing the poor idle condition. It'll run out on the trail but you might notice a change in performance and fuel mileage. I wouldn't run it until it's fixed right then I'd think about using a different dealer in the future.
 
On our rages the idle and cold weather starting was the only bad part. I never really noticed any loss of power and mileage was about the same, on one long trip the wife got 22.9 (18.3 us)and I got 20.7 (16.5 us)canadian.
 
+1 For Woody's in Topsham, Maine. They just did my '05 Vector last week. They offer a package deal for $350 plus the cost of oil (and filter if you want that done at the same time). I thought it was quiet when I bought it two weeks ago (used with 3300 mi) but now it is amazingly quiet and smooth. And I'll never have that 'what if' feeling on a long ride.
 
Hi guys just wondering where the noise sounds like it is coming from. I have a 2005 Rs venture 10 000 Kms and am hearing a different noise at idle. It appears to be most noticeable under the tunnel. I am not sure if it is the adjuster noise or exhaust issues, but it does not sound like an exhaust leak exactly. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Grizztracks

Just want to thank you again, grizztracks.. Great job on my tensioner replacement(among other things.).. See you on the trails this winter.
 
Re: Grizztracks

yamascoot said:
Just want to thank you again, grizztracks.. Great job on my tensioner replacement(among other things.).. See you on the trails this winter.

Happy to help out!
 
Now, this was worth-while read! I replaced my cam chain adjuster last year. After that I did notice that my sled would stall when cold. I just thought maybe the carbs got dirty or something. I checked the timing today and sure enough, the exhaust side was out by one tooth. Guess I should have read this thread first!

Thanks Grizz!
Brad
 
srvfan,

Spend a little on gas and take it to Woody's in Topsham, Maine about 15 minutes north of Portland. Their package deal will save you way more than the gas money you will spend. See my previous post from March. Paid $350 for the replacement and gave them some more annual maintenance business while it was in the shop. Great service, can't say that about my local Yammy stealership or the place in Plaistow where I bought my '03 V-Star. I trust these people to do a good job. Others here agree.
 
I am doing the tensioner and rather than messing with the hanger bolts which I understand are difficult to remove and moving the exhaust back a few inches is there any reason not to just remove the donut clamps and manifold pipes from the engine and then lift the rear of the engine?
 
Yes, you can remove the three flex pipes before rolling the engine if that's what you prefer. I've done several of these and normally don't have a problem with the hanger bolts.
 


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