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Cat DNA Strikes again! -CHAINCASE TENSIONER ROLLER WHEEL FAIL

I would put it closer to 1 1/2 turns , the preload on the tensioner is just about maxed out . I was looking at my chain , with the 22 T gear it really can't hit anything even if the tensioner wasn't in the case .
 

Im not saying don't use tensioner ...lol
 
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I would put it closer to 1 1/2 turns , the preload on the tensioner is just about maxed out . I was looking at my chain , with the 22 T gear it really can't hit anything even if the tensioner wasn't in the case .
22 gear has more clearance from chain to center post....I still think 1.5 turns out makes zero sense tho. My reverse works flawless at 3/4 turn out, so that was my only worry. I still believe these specs are OLD since the old TCL days with axial bearings.

Dan
 
I took mysled in to the dealer for an oil tank leak. The mechanic took everything out and cleaned it inspected gears bearings and the dreaded tensioned screw. Screw was tight. He didn’t weld it but put Sleeve Retainer on the screw. He said everything looked good. No shiny metal on the housing from chain. He sealed it back up on the bench over night before installing and adding fluid. Now I have one less worry. !!!!
 
I took mysled in to the dealer for an oil tank leak. The mechanic took everything out and cleaned it inspected gears bearings and the dreaded tensioned screw. Screw was tight. He didn’t weld it but put Sleeve Retainer on the screw. He said everything looked good. No shiny metal on the housing from chain. He sealed it back up on the bench over night before installing and adding fluid. Now I have one less worry. !!!!
Mine was all good too, just a few months ago. No tack weld, means anything can happen, and seems that it WILL happen. The Tack weld allows me to sleep at night now.

;)
 
Well pulled my daughters 2016 Viper case apart yesterday to check tensioner and all was tight. Tack welded like the other 2 in the fleet and can sleep now also. So out of 1 SW and 2 Vipers in the fleet, 1 Viper has lose screw. 33% odds is not very good IMO.
 
Inspection of the Zr at 8500kms still looks good. Changed gearing 2k ago. Top gear now with oil holes looks good. Has some play thats comparable to when it was installed. Original gear has alot more slop in comparison . Tensioner post on case has bit of wear from outer tensioner arm digging in but not bad. Something to keep and eye on each season. Visually inspected both tensioner roller bolts. Again No sign of movement in 8k so im leaving it alone again. Button er up, give her another pat on her seat and say thank you for being such a good ride.
 
Inspection of the Zr at 8500kms still looks good. Changed gearing 2k ago. Top gear now with oil holes looks good. Has some play thats comparable to when it was installed. Original gear has alot more slop in comparison . Tensioner post on case has bit of wear from outer tensioner arm digging in but not bad. Something to keep and eye on each season. Visually inspected both tensioner roller bolts. Again No sign of movement in 8k so im leaving it alone again. Button er up, give her another pat on her seat and say thank you for being such a good ride.
Why not tack it? Just such an easy thing to do once open IMO a no brainer, total peace of mind.

Just such a big job to chain out. grrrr

Dan
 
Why not tack it? Just such an easy thing to do once open IMO a no brainer, total peace of mind.

Just such a big job to chain out. grrrr

Dan
He’s an Arctic Cat guy....nuff said
 
He’s an Arctic Cat guy....nuff said
Ya...and im only reading these problems with the blue and red sleds. Maybe the folks installing the B&R sleds are tired of not having their own #*$&@ to work on an just throwing them together... not sure. Lol. ..
Plus I had a nice lil ride planned tonight and didnt have time to mig it it so ill wing it
 
Don’t get me wrong a spot weld will work I did one myself but so does Loctite with a proper fitting bolt. Name one part on any sled or anything really that is spotwelded to keep a bolt in place from a OEM. Don’t overthink this. Someone just didn’t hit the numbers machining and someone else forget Loctite. QC is all.
 
Well I am heading out on my first ride of the year and after reading this post, I had to tear into my chain case and look. It was all good... and bolts where tight, but tack welds done anyway.I have been on this sidewinder since 2017, and because I have followed the info on here.....I have never had a problem.I want to say... THANK YOU.. for to all the guys who share there experience with us.

The only issue I have not seen a good fix for, is the bearing behind the brakes. I have done the dimple method but sure hope Barn of Parts comes up with a cure.
 
Don’t get me wrong a spot weld will work I did one myself but so does Loctite with a proper fitting bolt. Name one part on any sled or anything really that is spotwelded to keep a bolt in place from a OEM. Don’t overthink this. Someone just didn’t hit the numbers machining and someone else forget Loctite. QC is all.

Where can we get proper fitting bolts? Is there an issue with the taper on the factory bolts?
 


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