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Clutch observation and issue. Calling clutch experts here.

Cat yellow is the closest spring to the stock winder spring. It will be slightly heavier side pressure with less twist rate, actually might be a nice test on a 35~38 helix. I would start with a 50* wrap and see how that works.
Thank you. I might try this one. Warm day here so going to pull secondary and clean the #*$&@ out of both clutches. This Cat yellow spring have same tang placement as stock winder spring?
 

No it doesn’t have the same tangs. 0-1 setting will give you around 40 degrees of twist. So maybe try 0-2?
 
I like it! Boob man myself!

The softer spring & low helix combo is causing the above mentioned belt slack after hard braking/hard acceleration causing belts to break.

I should also mention that no racers I know run the soft spring & low helix combo. Most go with the stiffer springs and higher helix angles in roller applications.

Higher helix angles & stiffer spring combos tend to shift out harder and faster. If done right they have excellent backshift also.

Most guys who race the high horsepower stuff successfully will tell you to ace the softer belts. You really want to run the hardest belt you can without it slipping.

Man I’m starting to sound like a broken record here so I’ll refrain until I clutch Matt’s winder and let you know what I come up with.

Most people should just buy a clutch kit and be happy. If you do not know what you are doing it can get expensive very fast. I have bought hundreds of weights, springs, helix's over the years and still screw-up once in a while. You never quit learning. If you want a nice mannered trail sled leave the secondary alone and weight up the primary to get your full shift and it will likely work fine.
 
Most people should just buy a clutch kit and be happy. If you do not know what you are doing it can get expensive very fast. I have bought hundreds of weights, springs, helix's over the years and still screw-up once in a while. You never quit learning. If you want a nice mannered trail sled leave the secondary alone and weight up the primary to get your full shift and it will likely work fine.

Yea problem is people are
“Never Satisfied” Lol!
Just kidding
 
No it doesn’t have the same tangs. 0-1 setting will give you around 40 degrees of twist. So maybe try 0-2?
Yellow cat spring it is. I will try it at 0/2 and report back. If we have any snow left after this epic meltdown today
 
How does wrapping it tighter then stock 3/3 make it same as stock? Grab a stock spring in your hand and squeeze it. Then do same with Dalton BO.
You must not have the concept of how a torsional secondary works.....

Dale has taken alot of things into acct developing this spring. He knows exactly how the wrap should be. Being that YAM uses a degree system, Dale states that to be equal to stock at 3/3, he wants it wrapped to 6/1. So the initial pull to move away from helix and begin its upshift is same as stock.

Torsional pressure is different then side pressure.

Hope this helps.

Dan
 
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You must not have the concept of how a torsional secondary works.....

Dale has taken alot of things into acct developing this spring. He knows exactly how the wrap should be. Being that YAM uses a degree system, Dale states that to be equal to stock at 3/3, he wants it wrapped to 6/1. So the initial pull on helix to move away from helix and begin its upshift is same as stock.

Torsional pressure is different then side pressure.

Hope this helps.

Dan
I gotcha. I know the twist is huge and varies with diff. Springs. I sold the Dalton b/o already. Damn nice spring. I know what quality is and that is a very good spring. It's just not working for me. 380 miles in the last two days with it. Going to cleaning both clutches up real good and trying the cat yellow. If not the stocker is on the way up tonight. I will know right away first major whack on throttle
 
I really feel part of it on my set up is the weights and how I have the weights set up. TP heavy hitters are going to act differently then others that are running 80 grams of weight. The straight helix angle is a different animal compared to stock and of the other helixes being run. Pulling against the 38 the ENTIRE shift is tuff with the two springs that did not work. TP orange. Dalton b/o
 
I gotcha. I know the twist is huge and varies with diff. Springs. I sold the Dalton b/o already. Damn nice spring. I know what quality is and that is a very good spring. It's just not working for me. 380 miles in the last two days with it. Going to cleaning both clutches up real good and trying the cat yellow. If not the stocker is on the way up tonight. I will know right away first major whack on throttle
Don’t be afraid to let some twist out and see how it performs. 0-1 setting may be more around 50 degrees, I always play around with them and don’t really pay much attention to numbers. I know that’s a good starting point.
 
Don’t be afraid to let some twist out and see how it performs. 0-1 setting may be more around 50 degrees, I always play around with them and don’t really pay much attention to numbers. I know that’s a good starting point.
I did that with the Dalton. Tried two different positions. Both TONS OF BELT DUST. TONS
 
Installed Cat yellow spring at 9/3. Nice feel. Your going to think I'm crazy but adjusting deflection it was great came right up to the top of secondary. I kept bringing it up until I had just one roller SLIGHTLY OFF helix. Other two tight on. And here is where it's gets very interesting. With the Dalton b/o the belt would not come up to top of secondary. It was like I couldn't get the deflection right and only ever had one roller touching. LOL. Total opposite of what everyone thinks and clutch book says. Call me nuts but it's a true story. And yes I agree not under load. So it does not mean much. But it came up better with a baby #*$&@ soft secondary spring. This with straight 38. . I know I'm going to get laughed at.
 


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