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Clutch Offset

Best way to do it is just buy the hurricane bar, it'll pay for itself on belt savings alone and allow you to check it during pre season maintainance and make sure everything checks out. Most sleds seem to be off about 2mm as was the case with mine. I had 3 mm machined off and reinstalled the factory 1mm shim to allow for future adjustments if needed. Cost $20 at my local shop to machine clutch and float plug. Too many variances in components to align it any other way IMO
 

Best way to do it is just buy the hurricane bar, it'll pay for itself on belt savings alone and allow you to check it during pre season maintainance and make sure everything checks out. Most sleds seem to be off about 2mm as was the case with mine. I had 3 mm machined off and reinstalled the factory 1mm shim to allow for future adjustments if needed. Cost $20 at my local shop to machine clutch and float plug. Too many variances in components to align it any other way IMO
So, 58mm is what is best? I can't see paying 100 bucks for something I can measure for free with the tools I have.
 
So, 58mm is what is best? I can't see paying 100 bucks for something I can measure for free with the tools I have.
I never measured it after using hurricanes bar so I cant say for sure what the number is, if clutchmaster says its 58ish I wouldnt hesitate to go with that. I just know I used the alignment bar while I was still using 8JP belt and their was substantially less belt dust afterwards. I agree about the $100 for the bar though, if you can do it with out your better off but It makes me feel much cooler having the tool in my box:bling
 
Never did mine with the Hurricane bar.Checked it and it was 59.5. Never blew a stock JP in 1600 miles. Almost 1000 this year tuned with the xs and the belt still looks new. Lots of high speed runs and abuse with my 250 lb dressed #*$&@ on it. I figured leave well enough alone!
 
Before milling my new clutch, you also have to mill the same off of the stub shaft, correct?
 
I have never checked mine.

This isn't too scientific, but my first 8JP exploded at 1,000 miles. I removed the washer behind the secondary after that. I removed my second 8JP at 2,000 miles in favor of the XS belt, but it still looked new.
 
I have never checked mine.

This isn't too scientific, but my first 8JP exploded at 1,000 miles. I removed the washer behind the secondary after that. I removed my second 8JP at 2,000 miles in favor of the XS belt, but it still looked new.
I have no shims and measurement is at 60.1 mm. I am using xs 825 belts now but still have too much heat in secondary even with light spring pressure. That's why my question of best offset to run. Clutchmaster replied and I am going to go to 58mm but I believe stub shaft has to be milled the same.
 
I have no shims and measurement is at 60.1 mm. I am using xs 825 belts now but still have too much heat in secondary even with light spring pressure. That's why my question of best offset to run. Clutchmaster replied and I am going to go to 58mm but I believe stub shaft has to be milled the same.

clutch setup?
 
I have done quite a few alignments this season and 57.5- 58.5 is what I shoot for and had great success with curing belt blowers!!!
When doing a offset adjustment make sure to pull clutches apart and inspect everthing (all rollers, bushing.......) make sure nothing is wore also
 
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The stub shaft is what the primary clutch seats onto. Definitely don’t mill anything off that. You take the material off the secondary clutch hub/post and same amount off the aluminum float plug.
Aluminum float plug is what I have meant the whole time. Sorry for confusion. I understand 2mm secondary shaft = 2mm aluminum plug.
 


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